Introducing: The Lederer Inverto Titanium
One of my favorite burgeoning brands is Lederer. The small independent sets its sights on creating incredibly technical movements and houses them in surreptitiously complex cases. Today’s release is unmistakably a Lederer, but it’s a watch in reverse. The Inverto Titanium literally flips the company’s CIC 39 over to present a unique offering.
It was more than a year ago that I first laid my hands and eyes on a Lederer. The Triple Observatory Certified Chronometer blew me away. This year, a smaller CIC 39 was introduced with a similar style, and it was a beauty on the wrist. Now, using the same case, Lederer has flipped its stunning movement, and the back has become the front. This is one scenario where seeing the hind end is hardly a concern.
The Lederer Inverto Titanium
The Inverto Titanium uses a new, hand-polished 39mm titanium case. As is the custom for all Lederer timepieces, the crystal is concave and extends downward on the sides in a non-uniform manner compared to the ends near the lugs. It’s a complex design, but it showcases the movement in such a clear and vivid manner that the works almost seem touchable. For a watch that seems open to the atmosphere, it somehow manages a water resistance rating of 30 meters. It is available with either a blue calf leather or a caoutchouc strap.
An open dial with hands on the wrong side?
Normally, the view seen on the top side of the Inverto Titanium is the working end of the movement. In this watch, however, the reverse has become the obverse. A set of skeletonized and blued hour and minute hands sits above all the mechanical bits. The view is beautiful with a look that reminds me of one of my all-time favorite vintage watches, the Bulova Accutron Spaceview. Who knew that twin barrels would look so good on a dial?
The flip side of the watch is tame by comparison. The engraved surface emulates a movement, but the real functionality comes in the form of a small seconds display. This blue hand carries the brand’s typical circular counterweight and shows off gears and several of the 36 jewels. Regarding the caliber, the watch uses the brand’s 9019 manual winding movement with a lineup of incredible qualifications. Twin gear trains, twin barrels, two constant-force mechanisms, and two escapement wheels bring unmatched harmony to the gear train. While 38 hours of power reserve and a frequency of 21,600vph don’t sound like much, this movement represents peak watchmaking due to its double-wheel escapement.
Final thoughts on the Inverto Titanium
Unlike some of the more recent Lederer releases, the Inverto Titanium will not be produced as a discrete limited edition. However, as this is a small manufacturer, production is limited by overall capacity. At CHF 152,000, this watch breathes in rare air. That being said, it’s gorgeous and a wonderful addition to the brand’s lineup.
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