Introducing: The Limited And Very English Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan
Two of Britain’s most contrasting watch brands are pairing up again. After the London-exclusive Gimlet, Fears and Studio Underd0g have headed across the Atlantic with another cocktail-inspired collab. Introducing the Manhattan, a watch that blends the elegance and heritage of Fears with Studio Underd0g’s irreverent spirit.
Only 300 pieces of the Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan will be available exclusively at Windup Watch Fair NYC, starting on October 17th. Each will cost US$1,300.
About Fears and Studio Underd0g
Founded in 1846 in Bristol, Fears is among the UK’s oldest watchmakers. The company flourished for 130 years before closing in 1976. The founder’s great-great-great-grandson, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, revived the company in 2016. Today, Fears creates elegant, British-built watches that stay true to its historic style.
By contrast, Studio Underd0g, founded by Richard Benc, is one of the youngest names in the industry. Known for its colorful chronographs and tongue-in-cheek approach, it represents a new breed of British independent brands unafraid to disrupt conventions. Studio Underd0g has become a cult favorite among collectors who enjoy a touch of humor with their horology.
The Gimlet
The pair joined forces earlier this year with the 02Series Gimlet. Inspired by a lesser-known cocktail, it became a surprise sensation at British Watchmakers’ Day, with enthusiasts queuing from the early hours to secure one. This, naturally, made it very likely that the two companies would team up once more, and here we are.
The new Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan
The Manhattan comes in a 38mm cushion-shaped case made of 316L stainless steel and derived from the Fears Brunswick. With a 12mm thickness (9.7mm without the crystal) and a 43.5mm lug-to-lug, it should wear with some vintage charm. You will find a sapphire crystal up top and a solid steel case back underneath. The package is rated water resistant to 100 meters. The Manhattan comes with a tobacco-brown leather strap handmade by The Strap Tailor. This strap features quick-release spring bars and a co-signed pin buckle.
Inside ticks the Swiss Sellita SW210-1, a hand-wound movement running at 28,800vph with hacking seconds and a 42-hour power reserve. The case back remains about as minimalist as they come, decorated only with a pair of cocktail cherries.
The Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan’s layered dial
The real star of the show is the dial. Achieved using modern machining techniques, it is built in layers for a uniquely deep effect. At its base lies a sunburst silver plate with a radial fumé finish. On top of this sits a 1mm-thick amber sapphire disc secured by two slotted-head pins. The combination creates depth and warmth, reminiscent of a glass of its namesake cocktail catching the light.
Printed markers and details appear to float above the base, casting subtle shadows below. As the watch moves, these shadows shift, giving the dial a dynamic, ever-changing appearance. Or, at least, that’s what the press materials suggest. I have yet to go hands-on with one, but the recipe (and photos) sure look promising.
Initial impressions
We have a soft spot for both Fears and Studio Underd0g here at Fratello. Both brands offer something unique and characterful in very different ways. Now, that’s no guarantee for success when they team up. After all, how do you combine the heritage-driven seriousness of Fears with Studio Underd0g’s cheeky commentary on the watch world?
Well, like this, really. In my eyes, the Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan blends the two worlds very well. From the lighthearted concept to the serious execution, and from the classical shape to the accessible price point, it all comes together in a thoughtful and appealing package.
Although you know me as a passionate opponent of fumé dials, I cannot in good conscience claim that this one isn’t pretty. It exudes depth and warmth, and I am sure it looks properly dynamic in real life. Let me put my normal grievances aside, then, and tip my hat to Fears and Studio Underd0g. As we tend to say after two cocktails, keep ’em coming!
What do you think of the new Fears × Studio Underd0g Manhattan? Let us know in the comments section below.
