Orient Star unveils a duo of classy timepieces that reflect the graceful passage of time. Compared with recent Orient Star designs, the M45 F8 pares it back to pure functionality and traditional layouts. The Roman numerals add a sense of dignity, and the moonphase complication connects our world to the cosmos. A white-dial variant joins the M45 Classic collection as a standard-production model. Orient Star is also releasing a 140-piece limited edition with a textured gray gradient dial inspired by the Pleiades star cluster. Both watches utilize the brand’s newest in-house mechanical hand-winding caliber, the F8A62, with a 70-hour power reserve. In a 39.5 × 11.9mm stainless steel case, this new Orient Star is a classic dressy timepiece for modern lifestyles. Let’s explore further.

The moonphase complication is a curious one. On one hand, it indicates a lunar cycle that barely impacts our daily lives (that is, unless tidal fluctuations somehow affect your daily routine). But on the other hand, it’s a drop-dead gorgeous feature on a watch, providing color, animation, and depth. I’ve owned one moonphase watch, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Calendar, and my use of the complication was a little different. As a keen stargazer, I could easily check my watch during the day to see whether the evening would have a crescent or a new Moon, or if it was approaching a full Moon. As beautiful as the Moon is, due to its brightness, it can wash out the distant stars when observing them at night. For me, then, a glance at my moonphase watch gives an instant answer to whether it’s worth setting up the telescope or not.

Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase RE-BW0005N head on over nighttime scene

Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding

I recognize this may be a unique use case, but there is something about connecting our passage of time to the cosmos. It humbles us to reflect on our place in the solar system. Orient Star pays homage to this passage of time with the M45 F8 Moon Phase Hand Winding. The silvery-white dial is part of the regular collection and features a blue starry-night scene within the moonphase aperture. The small moon itself is in mother-of-pearl and shimmers wonderfully when visible. Against the dial’s radial pattern, there is plenty of visual interest despite the layout’s simplicity. Surprisingly, the moonphase window remains clean, without integrated running seconds or a pointer date. This integration is a standard feature on moonphase watches that capitalize on the circular aperture to keep the rest of the dial uncluttered.

Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase RE-BW0004S

Orient Star also uses a wrapping technique on the blue leaf-shaped hands to add contrast against the dial base. This color extends to the power reserve indicator, a mainstay of Orient Star watches. With the spacing of the moonphase sub-dial at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 12 o’clock, there is a harmonious balance between the indications. The elongated Roman numerals add a traditional touch, with the rail-track minute markers ensuring legibility. For the 140-piece limited edition, Orient Star recreates the Pleiades star cluster on a grainy ombré dial. The moonphase indicator’s background is black, and the mother-of-pearl moon appears brighter against the darker backdrop. I also enjoy the steel surround of the moonphase indication and the black printing of the Orient Star logo and numerals. Instead of a minute track, steel dots match the leaf-shaped hands.

Final specs and pricing

Both editions utilize the in-house caliber F8A62 with a silicon escape wheel and an impressive 70-hour power reserve. Visible through the case back’s sapphire display, the movement has a cut-out in the bridges to offer a glimpse of the blue escape wheel. The accuracy tolerance is +15/-5 seconds per day. On the case side at 4 o’clock is a pin-pusher for adjusting the moonphase display, which the wearer can do with the included tool. Either watch comes on a black 20mm-wide cordovan strap with a triple-fold steel clasp. With this strap and the 3-bar water resistance, these watches are not for aquatic excursions. Also, the lack of luminescence may hamper low-light legibility.

However, as a dressy timepiece, the Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding is a classic take on elegance. Of the two, my pick is the 140-piece limited edition with the stunning smoky dial and dark, mysterious tones. The silvery-white dial is a more buttoned-up option and possibly better suited for the work environment. This standard-production model costs €2,999.99 / US$3,435, and the limited-edition gray dial retails for €3,199.99 / US$3,705. You can learn more about these Orient Star watches via the website here.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding
Reference
RE-BW0004S (white dial) / RE-BW0005N (gray gradient dial)
Dial
White with black Roman numerals and railroad minute track, moonphase indicator with blue background and white mother-of-pearl moon, and recessed power reserve indicator / Gray gradient with radial texture, black Roman numerals and polished steel dots marking hours, moonphase indicator with black background and white mother-of-pearl moon, and recessed power reserve indicator
Case Material
Stainless steel (SUS316L)
Case Dimensions
39.5mm (diameter) × 46.7mm (lug-to-lug) × 11.9mm (thickness)
Crystal
Dual-curved sapphire with antireflective coating
Case Back
Stainless steel (SUS316L) and sapphire crystal, screw-in
Movement
Orient Star F8A62: manual winding with hacking seconds, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 70-hour power reserve, 20 jewels, silicon escape wheel
Water Resistance
3 bar (30 meters)
Strap
Black cordovan leather (20mm width) with triple-folding push-button deployant clasp
Functions
Time (hours and minutes), moon phases, power reserve indicator
Price
€2,999.99 / US$3,435 (white dial) | €3,199.99 / US$3,705 (gray dial)
Warranty
Two years
Special Note(s)
Moonphase-adjusting tool included