Introducing: The Steel And Gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby

In the current watch landscape, Parmigiani Fleurier has a special position. The brand’s standout designs and clever use of colors have earned it much praise. I admire what Parmigiani has achieved, so I am always curious to find out what is next. For its newest creation, the Parmigiani team decided to spice up the 36mm Tonda PF. The new Deep Ruby version is executed in a combination of stainless steel and rose gold and houses a ruby-red dial with baguette diamonds for hour markers. This is another standout version of the Tonda PF, but it’s certainly not a watch for everyone. Let’s find out more.

The 36mm Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF is the smallest size in the collection. The brand predominantly targets women with this, but as Daan explained, the watch also fits men’s wrists perfectly. When it comes to this new bicolor Deep Ruby edition, stylistically, it is a better fit for women than men. The watch is not exactly brand new, though. It combines the Deep Ruby dial of the 2022 GPHG-winning rose gold model with the stainless steel and rose gold execution that has also been part of the collection for some time. The result is a watch that feels like a logical addition to the catalog and is also my new favorite 36mm two-tone model.

The details of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby

Speaking of which, the combination of steel and gold seems to be a thing again. Most of you know that this mix of materials is often heavily debated. It takes time to get used to, and even then, there are only a handful of watches that can stylishly pull it off. Recently, we saw the introduction of the brilliant Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty. It proudly celebrates the typical ’70s aesthetic that bicolor watches often display, making it one of my highlights of the year.

With the Tonda PF in steel and gold, it’s a somewhat different story. Take one look at this two-tone Tonda, and you will feel that the look doesn’t give off the same retro vibes as with many other watches.

I attribute that to the brilliant design of the Tonda PF. It lends itself perfectly to the use of various materials without dramatically altering the signature presence. This new Tonda PF features a 36mm case with an 8.6mm profile. Additionally, the case is water resistant to 100 meters.

The steel case features an 18K rose gold knurled bezel and screw-down crown. Also, the integrated five-row bracelet is created using a combination of steel and rose gold links. The watch features a combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces, adding to the visual brilliance of the materials and making the watch look even better.

The Deep Ruby dial of the new 36mm Tonda PF

The star of the show is the Deep Ruby dial with its Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché finish. It’s a beautifully detailed, rich purple dial with hand-applied rhodium-plated indexes set with baguette diamonds and an 18K rose gold logo.

The signature delta-shaped hour and minute hands, also executed in rose gold, hover over the dial. The combination of the dial color, the diamond markers, and the look of steel and rose gold makes it a feminine-leaning watch. In all honesty, though, even as a man, I like the look of it. The combination of the dial color and two-tone look of the case and bracelet is pretty striking.

Turning the watch around will give you a great view of the wonderful in-house PF770 caliber. This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, has 29 jewels, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. The caliber comprises 179 parts and is only 3.9mm thick, ensuring the overall profile of the watch is elegantly slim. The 22K skeletonized rose gold rotor features polished and sandblasted surfaces for an attractive look. Additionally, the caliber’s bridges are decorated with Geneva stripes and beveled edges for more visual brilliance.

Final thoughts on the steel and gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby

Overall, this new bicolor version of the Deep Ruby model shows once more how versatile Parmigiani’s Tonda PF line is. Indeed, there is a model for everyone. Of coruse, you have to love the look of the design, but if you do, there are so many great options. As you might know, I love less obvious dial colors. Parmigiani Fleurier is one of the brands that have pushed the envelope in terms of color usage. While the Toric collection, with its soft-tone dials and straps, is an excellent example of that, this Tonda PF’s Deep Ruby dial is another brilliant-looking dial color we don’t see often.

The full-rose-gold model and this new bicolor version look great with this deep purple dial. I prefer it for the steel and gold Tonda PF because it adds a richness and depth to the watch, moreso than the Citrine model that Daan reviewed and the Sand Grey version. That’s why this new version is a worthy addition to the bicolor lineup.

The new steel and gold Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Deep Ruby is available now for €36,400. Would I prefer it over the full-rose-gold version? That’s a tough call because that model with the same dial looks stunning. But isn’t that a luxury “problem” to have, with multiple stunning-looking variants that make it hard for fans to choose? This is a common “issue” in Parmigiani Fleurier’s catalog. It tells you all you need to know about the brilliance of the Tonda PF, and this Deep Ruby version is no exception.