Introducing: Three 38mm Perpetual Calendars From Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet is known for many things, and the perpetual calendar is certainly among them. From ultra-thin variants to recent Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar references, the complication has been a cornerstone of the brand’s horological reputation. Earlier this year, AP launched a new generation of calibers designed with ergonomics in mind inside 41mm Royal Oak models. Now, for the first time, that same technology comes in a more compact 38mm case size. That’s right — a 38mm perpetual calendar from Audemars Piguet!
The release marks an important step. Traditionally, perpetual calendars in AP’s collections have been reserved for 41mm cases and above. While not exorbitant, this meant they were for those with larger wrists. By scaling the watches down, the brand opens this classic complication to a wider audience. Three references debut simultaneously — two Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendars in steel and pink gold alongside one Code 11.59 in pink gold with a green dial. Join me for a closer look!
Caliber 7136 and the new caliber 7138
At the heart of these new 38mm perpetual calendars are the calibers 7136 and 7138. Both movements are built on the foundation of AP’s caliber 7121, which itself marked a generational leap for the brand’s automatic movements by integrating perpetual calendar functions on a single plane. This meant that the thickness was kept to just 4.1mm.
The two movements share everything but the week indicator. The 7138, first launched in the 41mm perpetual calendars earlier this year, includes a week calendar, while the new 7136 omits that feature for a slightly simplified display. Both calibers offer AP’s innovative “all-in-the-crown” correction system, eliminating traditional case-side pushers in favor of four crown positions. This makes adjustments easier and avoids the risks associated with correcting the watch at the wrong time of day. Several patents protect this new mechanism.
The construction reflects AP’s broader shift toward user-friendliness in high complications. Whereas perpetual calendars once intimidated collectors with their setting procedures, these movements aim to be more approachable while retaining all horological street cred. Decoration remains top tier, of course, with Geneva stripes, perlage graining, snailing, polished bevels, and a 22K pink gold rotor all visible through display case backs.
The new Royal Oak 38mm Perpetual Calendars
The Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar now comes in a 38mm case for the first time, available in stainless steel (ref. 26684ST.OO.1356ST.01) and in 18K pink gold (ref. 26684OR.OO.1356OR.01). Both have a mere 9.4mm profile and a 50m water resistance rating.
The stainless steel model features a light blue Grande Tapisserie dial, matching azurage-finished calendar registers, and white gold hands and hour markers. The pink gold version opts for a warmer beige dial and calendar registers with pink gold markers and hands, accented by a striking blue moonphase disc at 6 o’clock. Despite their distinct characters, both dials follow AP’s reorganized “European” layout, with day, date, and month arranged at 9, 12, and 3 o’clock, respectively, and a 24-hour indication integrated into the day sub-dial.
Both versions house AP’s caliber 7136, the version without a week indicator. Of course, the caliber sits beneath a case back equipped with a sapphire display. In celebration of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, each model is also offered as a 150-piece limited edition with commemorative details on the moonphase indicator and case back. The brand has added regular-production versions to the collection as well.
The new 38mm Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection receives its first-ever 38mm perpetual calendar version (ref. 26441OR.OO.D405CR.01). The pink gold case, with its octagonal middle sandwiched between rounded bezels, is executed in alternating brushed and polished surfaces. With a 10mm total thickness, it pairs its horological prowess with excellent wearability. AP rates the watch’s water resistance at 30 meters, a step below the Royal Oak versions.
The dial brings a subtle shade of green with a distinctive embossed motif created in collaboration with guilloché artist Yann Von Kaenel. He manually engraved the stamp used to make these embossed dials. Pink gold markers and hands provide readability against the textured background, while the perpetual calendar sub-dials are neatly integrated. A green rubber strap with an alligator pattern and calfskin lining completes the ensemble.
Unlike the 38mm Royal Oak models, this Code 11.59 runs on the caliber 7138, including the week display. Through the case back’s sapphire window, the 422-component movement reveals its mix of modern engineering and traditional finishing. Limited editions of 150 pieces celebrating AP’s 150th anniversary feature special engravings on the dial and case back. As with the Royal Oaks, the brand has also added regular editions to the collection.
Initial impressions of Audemars Piguet’s new 38mm perpetual calendar models
Perhaps you already detected some excitement in my tone, but let me put it bluntly: I love the new 38mm perpetual calendar models from Audemars Piguet. I particularly like the Royal Oak versions. Upon seeing the first frontal pictures, I was scared they might come out tubby, but with a sub-10mm thickness, there is no such issue.
The focus on user-friendliness also makes a ton of sense to me. The mighty perpetual calendar complication can be intimidating, but this mechanism makes it much less so. I would still keep the watch on a winder (or, preferably, my wrist), but setting the calendar seems less daunting now.
Audemars Piguet wants to broaden the appeal of its complicated watches, and I think downsizing and focusing on user-friendliness go a long way. The press materials showcase the watches exclusively on women’s wrists, but I reckon these will speak to many enthusiasts, regardless of gender. They speak to me, at least.
What do you think of the new 38mm perpetual calendar models from Audemars Piguet? Let us know in the comments section below!
