Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black”

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We’ve had a couple of battles between dressy watches in the previous weeks, so we thought it would be good to return to our more regular program of proper sports watches. This week, Omega launched its updated Dark Side of the Moon collection, which we couldn’t ignore for this morning’s showdown. But what do you put up against an iconic all-black, full-ceramic, automatic chronograph? Well, how about the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium? That’s another iconic automatic chronograph with an all-black design.

Thomas will defend the Speedmaster before the slightly biased Fratello crowds, while Daan will try to avoid a complete knockout for the Pilot’s Chronograph. But first, we’ll take a look at what happened last week.

Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…

A. Lange & Söhne recently released its Saxonia Thin in platinum with a glossy onyx dial, and last week, we thought it was a good idea to put it up against the platinum Breguet Classique 5177 with a glossy enamel dial. Indeed, it was a very sophisticated Sunday Morning Showdown, and that was evident in the comments as well. In the beginning, it looked like the Saxonia Thin was going to take home the victory because most people couldn’t live with the date window on the Breguet. However, during the week, the Breguet gathered some more votes, probably because of its more appropriate size. Anyway, in the end, it’s hard to call a clear winner since the A. Lange & Söhne, with just 51% of the votes, doesn’t have a large majority. Let’s see if this week’s battle will be that close again.

Daan: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium

As always, I know it will probably be a hopeless case to go up against an Omega Speedmaster here on Fratello, but someone has to do it. And to be honest, I think I have a good contender with me today. When you think about IWC, you immediately think about pilot’s watches, right? Nowadays, the brand would like you to think of its Ingenieur, but I still think about pilot’s watches. They are what the brand is best known for. I especially like the Top Gun versions, as they come in cool colorways. My choice would be the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun in the Mojave Desert sand color. For this showdown, however, the all-black Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium is more appropriate, of course.

In general, I’m not a big fan of blacked-out watches, including today’s contenders. However, if I were to choose between the two, I’d go for the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph. At first glance, these two watches are quite similar. They both have black cases (partly) made of ceramic, black-on-black dials, automatic movements with a dark finish, and a whole lot of heritage backing them up. They’re even fairly close in price, with the Omega Speedmaster selling for €15,400 and the IWC Pilot’s Watch with a price of €14,000. Still, I think there are enough reasons to choose the IWC.

Classic versus modernized

I own the current Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. What I most appreciate about it is how close it is to the Speedmaster ref. 105.012 worn by astronaut Buzz Aldrin when he set foot on the Moon in July of 1969. Sure, it has been updated to today’s standards, but from afar, you could mistake it for a vintage one. It’s still very much a classic watch, as its design has only slightly changed over the years. And for me, that’s exactly how an Omega Speedmaster should look — classic, without too many frills. That’s precisely why I don’t like the new all-black Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon. It takes the classic Moonwatch concept but puts it in a different skin that I just can’t get used to.

It’s different in the case of IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph. On its website, IWC refers to the 1936 Special Pilot’s Watch ref. IW436 as the starting point of its Pilot’s Watch collection. However, what is also immediately clear is that IWC’s idea of what a pilot’s watch should look like has changed over the years. The font of the numerals, the case shape, and the type of hands have all changed, leading to where we are now. When you look at IWC’s current Pilot’s Watch collection, you can still see that the inspiration came from that first 1936 model, but the watches are all modernized interpretations of the same theme. That’s why it’s easier for me to accept a more daring design like the all-black Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun in Ceratanium from IWC.

Matte Ceratanium versus shiny ceramic

Another thing I can’t stand about the new Speedmaster DSOTM is the ceramic case, especially the polished parts. While they accentuate the Speedmaster’s sexy shape, they also look so shiny and plastic-like. To me, that drastically cheapens the feel of such a luxury item. I’m glad that Omega made both the bezel and the dial matte, but still, the polished parts are a bit much for me. The manufacturing of ceramic might be more complex and expensive, but I prefer the look of IWC’s Ceratanium.

Ceratanium is machined from titanium and thermally treated to create a hardened, ceramized surface. It combines the toughness and lightness of titanium with the hardness and scratch resistance of ceramic. But it’s also less brittle and easier to machine than ceramic. I also love the matte finish, which turns IWC’s Pilot’s Watches into actual tools that avoid blinginess and offer a non-distracting, modest design.

Bigger isn’t always better

The other not-so-modest characteristic of the Speedmaster is its 44.25mm size. I know black always makes everything look slightly smaller, but this watch will still look big, no matter how you look at it. At 15.1mm, it’s also 0.6mm thicker than the IWC. So, for my 17cm wrist, I’d always go for the Pilot’s Watch 41mm Ceratanium case. It would still look big because there’s no bezel, but it wouldn’t look out of place like the Omega would.

Isn’t there anything I like about the new Omega Speedmaster DSOTM, then? Well, I do quite like Omega’s shaped rubber Speedmaster straps. They wear very well and have that grippy and appropriate Moon-inspired texture on the back. I also think Omega’s Co-Axial caliber is ahead of IWC’s Valjoux 7750 replacement, and the Speedmaster’s nicely domed sapphire case back shows it off well. However, if I had to spend my money on one of these watches, I would choose the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun in Ceratanium, no doubt about it.

Thomas: Omega Dark Side of the Moon “Black/Black”

Wow, Daan, talk about bringing a fighter jet to a knife fight! You have just destroyed nearly everything about the new Speedy except for its movement and strap, which aren’t even original or exclusive to this model. I get it, though. You are defending an IWC Pilot’s Chronograph against a Speedmaster on Fratello, so you have to come out with all guns blazing.

Frankly, I do see where you are coming from. I was probably one of the least impressed team members at HQ when the new Dark Sides came in. The release also saw a mixed response from our readers, some of whom saw the watches as a bit big, a bit shiny, and maybe even a bit gimmicky. Still, I think the Dark Side of the Moon is the better watch compared to your IWC. Let me try to outline why.

I will allow myself to start with a cheap shot: you do see why IWC had to evolve the design, right? The originals aren’t exactly associated with the brightest page in world history. Beyond that, the original design also looks dated, while the Speedmaster is one of the most timeless watches ever designed. It doesn’t just survive virtually unchanged but also continues to look modern and fresh decade after decade. I don’t have a crystal ball, but I reckon the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph in Ceratanium will look a bit dated 20 years from now. The Speedy, by contrast, will probably remain forever young.

The Dark Side of the Moon over the Pilot’s Chronograph from a caliber perspective

You rightfully addressed the calibers, Daan. Considering the price segment, the Pilot’s Chronograph feels a little underpowered. It reminds me of when the Aston Martin DB7 had a Ford V6 engine. Sure, the car looks great on the outside, but you want a roaring V12 to match those swanky looks, right?

I don’t mind ébauche calibers in the sub-€10k segment. In fact, I strongly prefer them for watches aimed at leisurely daily wear. However, when we cross that €10k line and head into more exotic stuff, I want the inside to match the outside.

So, is the Omega caliber 9900 truly better? You bet! How about METAS certification, 60 hours of power reserve over 46 hours, and a Co-Axial escapement? Perhaps more crucially, how about resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss? Your Pilot’s Chronograph doesn’t have that, making me wonder what’s so “piloty” about it. Essentially, we are comparing a caliber from the 1970s to one from the 2010s. When I buy a distinctly modern-looking watch in this segment, I want a matching movement. Omega’s domed rear crystal is quite a neat touch as well.

Bigger isn’t always worse

I expected your points regarding size, Daan. I, too, usually prefer the smaller option, all other things equal. All other things clearly aren’t equal, this time, but still. The reported dimensions of the Speedy are a bit tricky, though.

Yes, 44.25mm in diameter is bigger than 41. But no, you don’t feel that 0.6mm of added thickness, especially since the mid-case is slimmer due to the domed crystals on the front and back. The devil, however, is in the lug-to-lug. Your IWC Pilot’s Chronograph measures almost a millimeter longer. The Speedy is hardly any longer than its regular Speedmaster Professional cousin and, therefore, wears very similarly. Add the slimming effect of black, and you have a perfectly wearable watch.

It is tempting to worship the numbers, but the reality is that these are two large black watches. If one fits you, the other is likely to fit you too. Bigger isn’t by definition worse, you know.

Cast your vote!

There you have it — the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium ref. IW388106 versus the new Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon ref. 310.92.44.51.01.005. Which is your favorite? Cast your vote and share your motivations below.