My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet — But These References Come Quite Close
The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. At one point, I thought I had already bought my favorite Rolex Datejust. However, I sold it after only a couple of months. I’ve never regretted that decision, but every once in a while, the Datejust crosses my mind. Ultimately, it’s still one of the most classic watches out there, and there are countless variations. Maybe that’s precisely why it’s so difficult to pick a favorite.
One thing’s for sure: If I ever buy a Rolex Datejust again, it has to be the 36mm version. At one point, I owned a 34mm Datejust, and it felt too small for my wrist. I’ve also tried 39—and 40—mm Explorers at get-togethers, but that has never worked either. My Rolex Explorer 114270 is 36mm wide, and it feels perfect on my 17cm wrist. That watch is probably also why I don’t own a Datejust at the moment.
My first Rolex
At the beginning of my watch-collecting journey, I decided it was time for my first Rolex. At that time, I was deciding between a Rolex Datejust 1603 from the ’70s with a pie-pan dial and a more modern Explorer, either reference 14270 or 114270. I remember going to Amsterdam Watch Company, the dealer where Thomas used to work. They had both models in, and I could try them side by side. The result of that comparison was that I focused my search on the more elegant 1603 with a jubilee bracelet.
A little while later, I found a perfect example with a blue pie-pain dial, nice patina, and a slightly stretched jubilee bracelet at Oliver and Clarke in the US. I decided to take the risk and import it to the EU. Luckily, that all went well, but after a few months with the watch, I wasn’t convinced I made the right choice. I wasn’t ready for the fragility of that plexiglass and the jingly and jangly jubilee. So, I sold it and decided to replace it with the Cartier Santos Galbée XL, which I still wear and enjoy.
Since then, I’ve added a Rolex Explorer, reference 114270 to my collection. That’s right, the watch I decided not to buy when I compared it to the Datejust. Again, that Explorer is probably the reason why I don’t own a Datejust at the moment. But what if I were to buy a Rolex Datejust now? Which one would it be?
Image: Oliver and Clarke
A little more pizazz
Of course, like Thomas, I also like the classic Rolex Datejust 1601 classic with a pie-pan dial, fluted bezel, and jubilee bracelet. However, I owned a 1603 that came very close, and that wasn’t a success. I just think I would get tired of its classic looks very soon. Maybe I should look for a Datejust with a little more pizazz. That is why the reference 126234 with a palm dial could be a nice option.
I’m usually not that much into crazy details on watches, but for some reason, that palm motif on the green dial speaks to me. It adds a little extra to the classic Datejust and makes it a little less serious-looking. Its stainless steel Oyster case and Jubilee bracelet are sturdier than the Datejusts from the ’60s and ’70s. All that together would make it the perfect summer vacation watch.
Image: Oliver and Clarke
Right now, that place in the collection is reserved for my Explorer, and I’m not sure I’m ready to pay the premium for a recent and discontinued Datejust. But if money were no object, I’d definitely add it to the collection.
Image: Wind Vintage
A lot more pizazz
That also counts for the next option. This one appeared on my radar when I visited a watch friend who at that moment worked at a pre-owned watch boutique by Schaap and Citroen in the Conservatorium Hotel in Amsterdam. That boutique is now closed, but it used to be a Valhalla for pre-owned Rolex watches. Every once in a while, I would stop by to see how my watch friend was doing and whether they had any interesting watches. One day, I didn’t even have to ask, and he told me he had something for me. He went into the back of the store and returned with an older Rolex box. It contained a full gold Datejust on a riveted Oyster bracelet, I’m sure RJ would approve.
Image: Wind Vintage
That particular one had a beautiful, soft black dial. However, I would choose one with a white dial if I had to decide now. I started looking around a little bit and found some nice examples. What to think of a reference 1601 with leaf hands? However, a slightly more modern 16018 with a silver dial is also a good option. But then, I stumbled upon a full gold reference 16078 with a bark finish on the bezel and its jubilee bracelet’s center links. I think that would be the ultimate Datejust for me. That said, the version with a white dial might even be more my thing.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Oysterquartz after all?
In the end, though, I’m still delighted with my Rolex Explorer, reference 114270, and I don’t think I would add a Datejust next to it. Maybe, like Lex, after all, I’ll end up with an Oysterquartz. I saw a nice one with a Buckley dial at a recent Redbar Amsterdam event at Ace Jewelers. But maybe I should wait for the right Datejust to come around. For now, though, of my two contenders, the white-dialed full-gold reference 16078 leads with a slight advantage, making it my favorite Datejust.
Have you already found your perfect Rolex Datejust? Let me know in the comments below.
