Please don’t call it a size reduction; it’s a completely reworked design to get perfectly balanced proportions. Introducing two new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm models for women. Yes, Blancpain tells us explicitly that these new “FF” models are for women only. That’s not very 2025, but in the brand’s defense, these watches pay tribute to the women taking action as part of the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, through the Ocean Photographer of the Year competition, and more particularly, the Female Fifty Fathoms Award. So, that’s settled, but let’s look at the watches again. That 38mm case size is perfect for men, too!

Okay, the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm with the shiny pink bezel on the white NATO-style strap showing electric and petal pink stripes matched to a pink mother-of-pearl dial with a dégradé effect (Ref. 5007-12B44R-NAFA) is undeniably feminine. I have nothing against the color pink or mother-of-pearl, but the way Blancpain presents this combination will probably not attract many men. Also, this watch does have a lot of resemblance to the Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean. Anyway, now look at the version on a bracelet, the Ref. 5007 12B44R. With its fully brushed, grade 23 titanium three-link bracelet perfectly matching the brushed 38.2 × 12mm grade 23 titanium case, the watch undergoes a metamorphosis that gets the imagination going.

New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Two new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm models

The foundation of the Ref. 5007 12B44R is the traditionally sized brushed grade 23 titanium case with a subtle greyish hue and the matching bracelet. With that foundation, a less flamboyant, more utilitarian dive watch is not hard to imagine. Maybe something with a matte black dial and an anthracite unidirectional dive bezel?

New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

The second newcomer is the red gold-cased version with the black bezel. The ref. 5007 3644A is the one on the black tropic rubber strap, the ref. 5007- 3644A-B52 comes on a sailcloth strap, and the ref. 5007-3644A-NABA has a black fabric NATO strap. The polished 18ct red gold has an intense hue — Blancpain calls it red gold instead of pink gold for a reason — which contrasts very nicely with the graduated black “MOP” dial. That dial could also work in an “FF” with a brushed titanium case and matching bracelet.

Remember the blacked-out Sinn U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S Limited Edition with its shimmering light blue dial? I do. And very vividly. I found the contrast between the dark hardened submarine steel and the lustrous mother-of-pearl dial incredibly alluring.

Dial of the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 38mm

Back to reality and the future

The two new 38mm Fifty Fathoms watches feature a case with a water resistance rating of 300 meters. And inside the case, you will find the in-house caliber 1153. This automatic 3Hz movement of 186 components boasts a 100-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring. It’s the standard FF movement, and you can see it in action through the see-through case back.

Prices for the 18ct red gold version range from CHF 26,100 to CHF 29,000, depending on the buckle — a red gold pin buckle and a folding clasp are available. The titanium version on the white NATO-style strap costs CHF 15,500, while the reference with the three-link titanium bracelet costs CHF 18,200.

Fantasizing about and hoping for 38mm models a little less outspoken and more in line with the functional history of the Fifty Fathoms is not a waste of time. In the press release accompanying the two newcomers, Blancpain writes the following: “The new 38 mm case size opens the door to future additions within the Fifty Fathoms family.” You can start holding your breath now.