Panerai Extends Its Partnership With The Luna Rossa Sailing Team

Panerai launched a deluge of Luna Rossa editions at Watches and Wonders 2024. After a more back-to-basics showing this year, not including the Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, the Luna Rossa editions return with two new Luminor models. Panerai also announces its extension with the Luna Rossa sailing team, continuing a partnership that takes us to the 38th America’s Cup in 2027. The subsequent chase for the Auld Mug trophy will occur in the Campania region of Italy, Panerai’s homeland. While not quite Panerai’s birthplace in Florence, a landlocked city, the races will mostly center on the coast of Naples. Under the watchful eye of Mount Vesuvius and azzurro skies, the area will provide a stunning backdrop for the world’s oldest international sport.

The collaborative continuation with Luna Rossa unveils two new Panerai Luminor models. Eschewing the typical blue dial with red accents is a duet of muted gray dials on the time-only PAM01653 and the Chrono Flyback PAM01654. Starting with the Luminor PAM01653, this most familiar case design epitomizes Panerai. The 44mm cushion case includes the unmistakable Panerai crown protector with lever release for winding and setting. The signature silhouette ensures the Panerai Luminor stands apart from any other watch on the market. While a 42mm case would be preferable to my tastes, the 44mm version has short lugs and takes a 24mm strap. Despite the daunting dimensions, this design allows the case to sit nicely on most wrists.

Panerai Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653

While the two watches share the gray dial shade, the case materials differ. For PAM01653, we have a stainless steel case, but digging deeper, we see that there is much more to it. The case uses a premium AISI 316LVM steel, already known for its corrosion resistance. Adding to this is the process of vacuum arc remelting to increase purity and boost corrosion resistance. Similar to 904L steel, not only does it strengthen the structure, but it also polishes beautifully. Emphasizing this shimmer, Panerai mixes brushed and polished surfaces with a contrasting polished bezel against the brushed crown protector. The gray dial is quite stark compared to previous Luna Rossa dials with sunburst blue dials. However, this monochrome aesthetic complements a more tool-watch look than a luxury style.

Offsetting the sea of gray is the subsidiary seconds hand at 9 o’clock with a flash of red, complying with the “Rossa” part of the name. This red extends to the black and gray bimaterial strap with what is officially called the Luna Rossa stripe. However, we can unofficially refer to it as Prada’s red-line logo. It’s apt as Prada also sponsors the Luna Rossa sailing team. So, we have a historic Italian watch brand (albeit with Swiss-made watches) sponsoring an Italian racing team, along with an Italian fashion house competing in Italy. You can see why continuing this partnership was essential and fitting for all involved. Powering the PAM01653 is the hand-winding P.6000 caliber with 72 hours of power reserve and a 3Hz (21,600vph) frequency. At €6,700 / US$6,900 / £5,700, the time-only Panerai Luminor is one of the more approachable Luna Rossa editions.

Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01654

Stepping it up another level is a 150-piece limited edition, the Luminor Chrono Flyback PAM01654. While it has a similar gray dial, matching strap, and red accents as the PAM01653, this Chrono Flyback heads in a new direction. First, the titanium case is 44% lighter than the steel one despite having the same 44mm diameter. Titanium also boasts natural corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties. This quality benefits those whose skin can’t tolerate nickel, which comprises 15% of the steel model’s case. PAM01654 brings the flyback chronograph function while maintaining the signature oversized crown protector. Therefore, the pushers sit on the left side of the case, which may or may not be preferable depending on which wrist you wear your watch. The flyback feature can reset the chrono seconds hand to zero while continually running, achieving minimal downtime while timing successive events.

The flyback function is integral for regatta-style sailing when passing through timing gates. The event may use high-tech transponders for official timing, but the crew can use the watches as a reference during the height of competition. The dial’s rehaut also displays a tachymeter scale calibrated for nautical miles, furthering the marine credentials. Despite having twin counters, PAM01654 has a 12-hour chronograph totalizer at 3 o’clock. This clear display is thanks to the chronograph’s minute counter also residing on the central pinion. This hand has a white base and red tip instead of the all-red chrono-seconds hand to differentiate between the indications. The gray dial also has hollow numerals with a layer of white Super-LumiNova X1 underneath, forming a sandwich construction. With the provenance of materials and movement, the PAM01654 is a tier above at €15,900 / US$16,400 / £13,400.

Final specs and thoughts

Powering the flyback chronograph of PAM01654 is the automatic P.9100 caliber, also with 72 hours of power reserve, although this may drop with the chronograph running. P.9100 also has a vertical clutch and column wheel for smooth actuation of the elapsed timing functions. Unlike the PAM01653, which has a solid steel case back, this watch keeps the caliber visible through a sapphire exhibition window. Both models have a depth rating of 100m depth rating, though, which is disappointing. Considering the history of diving for Panerai, I’m surprised the Luminor models don’t aim for deeper depths. While it is good to have a distinction between the Luminor and Submersible lines, which can hit 300 meters, it feels a bit shallow considering the technology packed in.

The Luminor Chrono Flyback is also a pretty chunky piece. Although the 17.7mm case profile is proportional to the 44mm diameter, it will wear bigger than the thinner time-only PAM01653. My final thought is that although it’s good to continue the partnership with Luna Rossa and give buyers great watches, these models are now the 14th and 15th references in the Luna Rossa collection. Considering the partnership only began in 2019, it’s been quite a frequent release schedule for Panerai, and I wonder if a more staggered approach for the Luna Rossa collection could’ve made each piece feel more special. Both models are available online and in-store, with the PAM01654 limited to 150 pieces.