Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date

Welcome to another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! We hope you have your Sunday breakfast, a cup of coffee, and an open mind at hand because we need your opinion! Today, we’ll pit the latest Longines Hydroconquest against the Oris Aquis. This, then, is a battle of sub-€2,500 dive watches.

Both watches come in different size options, with the 41.5mm Aquis and the 42mm Hydroconquest being numerically closest. However, since these two provide radically different wearing experiences (the 39mm Hydroconquest actually wears more similarly to the 41.5mm Aquis), we’ll leave the size out of the equation. Rest assured, both watch lines offer a size that will suit you.

But first, last week’s results

Before we get into all of that, though, let’s quickly review last week’s results. Coincidentally, we had another battle of divers, albeit in a higher price bracket (we’ll go for non-divers again next week). Jorg and Mike went for an international Swiss-Japanese bout between the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” and the Seiko Marinemaster HBF001.

Although the Marinemaster has a cult following, it ultimately lost to the mighty Black Bay, with 58% of you having voted for the shield carrier. That’s a rather big win. In the comments, we saw criticism of the Marinemaster’s price and accuracy. Also, its date window wasn’t universally appreciated. The Black Bay caught flak for being too much of a homage watch and for its slab-sided case. Still, that didn’t hurt it enough for it to lose — not even close, actually.

Now, with that out of the way, let’s stick with the divers but dial back the budget from around €4,000 to just over €2,000. This is the Longines Hydroconquest (€2,200–2,300) versus the Oris Aquis Date (€2,400).

Thomas: Longines Hydroconquest

Good morning, Fratelli! And good morning, Daan! This is a tough one, not least of all because I let Daan pick first. Intuitively, I would lean towards the Oris Aquis. However, upon closer inspection, I believe the Longines Hydroconquest has more to offer.

The differences between these watches are simultaneously subtle and significant. In terms of build, finishing, and specifications, there isn’t that much between the two. The major differentiating factor is the spirit of each watch. Although, as a seasoned watch enthusiast, I would pick the Aquis, I think it pays to think like a first-time buyer. After all, both of these models often serve as a gateway to higher-end watches for newcomers. When we adopt that mindset, things change quite a bit.

I do have to address one more objective elephant in the room first, though. With the Longines, spec-wise, you get a slightly better package for a tiny bit less money. For starters, you get regular lugs, allowing you to swap straps to your heart’s content. Second, you get a more up-to-date movement, the Longines caliber L888. Now, this caliber isn’t worlds apart from the one in the Aquis. It’s a proprietary version of an ETA movement, while the other is a slightly customized Sellita. However, the Hydroconquest offers a 72-hour power reserve, quite an improvement over the Aquis’s 41 hours. All of that, and you can take a loved one out for a nice dinner with the price difference.

The Longines Hydroconquest is blander, which is good

Okay, on to the spiritual differences I alluded to earlier. When investigating my initial inclination towards the Aquis, I noticed that it was due to its more original design. Although both watches stick fairly closely to the traditional dive-watch recipe, the Aquis does so in a distinct way. Its kettle-shaped case with the integrated bracelet and its dial layout put it in a class of one.

The Longines Hydroconquest, meanwhile, looks a bit messy in comparison. This, however, may just be why it wins. Yes, this is a leap, but hear me out! The Hydroconquest aims to incorporate more archetypal features from the most impactful dive watches. There is a hint of the Rolex super case in there. The dial is an odd remix of a classical dive-watch dial, and the two bracelet options directly reference classic dive watches.

While this may be slightly off-putting to seasoned aficionados, I think this is exactly why the Hydroconquest speaks to newcomers; it looks more familiar. You get a watch that looks like a stereotypical diver from a heritage brand, at a fraction of the price of some of the watches it references. If I imagine walking into an AD as a newcomer, without a specific watch already in mind, I can see the Longines being more appealing than the comparatively slightly odd Oris. So, as a gateway watch, I think the latest Longines Hydroconquest wins. Okay, Daan, now tell the good people why I’m wrong!

Daan: Oris Aquis Date

Thanks, Thomas, and I see you’ve already laid the groundwork for the Oris Aquis’s win here! That’s a bit unfair, to be honest, as I think the Longines Hydroconquest received a great update. I wasn’t a big fan of the oversized numerals on the previous version, and the case was a bit bulky as well. It might still feel a bit bigger than its size on paper suggests, but I’d easily wear the 39mm Hydroconquest on my 17cm wrist.

I’m still not fully convinced of the Hydroconquest’s design, though. The big numerals were replaced by two dots and a triangle, which, next to the stick markers, looks a bit random, to be honest. Sure, the proportions look better overall, but in the end, I’d still choose the Oris Aquis. That’s because the Longines Hydroconquest is still a not-so-original vintage-inspired diver.

The much more original Oris Aquis

The Oris Aquis, on the other hand, is, like you said, Thomas, quite original. Its kettle-shaped case and integrated bracelet are indeed more divisive, but at least it’s not another Submariner lookalike. Sure, it might be a bit more difficult to find straps for it, but the options Oris offers aren’t bad at all. I think Oris even supplies you with the right tool in the box, so swapping the bracelet for a rubber strap shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

The other great thing about the Aquis is that it has been around since 2011 without any drastic changes. This means you will probably like the new models in the store just as much as some of the discontinued models that are available on the pre-owned market. Because of this, you have many options to choose from. If, for example, you’re not a big fan of the glossy ceramic bezel insert, you can also get one with a stainless steel relief insert.

The same goes for the excess of sunburst dials currently available. In the past, there were plenty of Aquis models with matte dials. I did a quick search on Fratello, and this plain matte black version with a brushed bezel looks more up my alley.

Back to the basics

You’re right, Thomas: the Longines Hydroconquest has an extended power reserve and is a certified chronometer. Honestly, though, if you wear the watch every day, the difference in power reserve doesn’t matter that much. On the other hand, it’s nice to have a watch on the wrist that’s accurate in timekeeping. So, yes, COSC certification is a plus.

But the fact that Oris doesn’t specifically state the accuracy of its Sellita-powered watches doesn’t mean they’re incapable of accurate timekeeping. If the watch isn’t running well and you bought it from Oris, I’m sure you can ask to have it regulated. And if you bought the watch pre-owned, you can either send it back to Oris or have an independent watchmaker take a look at it. So yes, the Longines might be slightly less expensive, but I think the Oris offers similar specs and a way more original design. That’s why I’d go for the Oris Aquis Date.

Time to vote

There you have it — another Sunday Morning Showdown. It’s time to choose your favorite and cast your vote. Are you a fan of the more traditional but updated Longines Hydroconquest, or do you prefer the more original Oris Aquis? Let us know in the comments below why you voted the way you did.