Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Original Vs. Omega Speedmaster FOiS
It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a warm cup of coffee and a battle for the ages. In today’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we’re pitting two modern versions of iconic chronographs against each other. Both also come with beautiful blue dials. One is the current Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space that came out in 2024. It goes up against the blue-dial version of the Zenith Chronomaster Original that was introduced this year. The two watches represent great watchmaking history, but which of the two will triumph in today’s Sunday Morning Showdown? Let’s find out!
Today’s contenders are modern descendants of two of the most iconic chronographs in wristwatch history. The Zenith Chronomaster Original is a new take on the classic El Primero A386. This new version was introduced earlier this year in a series of blue-dial Zenith models that commemorate the brand’s 160th anniversary. The €10,600 watch combines the aesthetic of the famous Zenith A3818 “Cover Girl” with the classic tricolor sub-dials of the A386 for an original take on this classic. The current Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space was unveiled in October 2024 and is the second generation of the watch. This new blue-dial version takes inspiration from the classic “soleil” dials that left the Omega factory in the 1960s. At €8,700, it is slightly more affordable than the Zenith. Will that be a deciding factor? Let’s find out.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we let Mike and Jorg make their cases, let’s take a look back at last week’s battle. In it, Thomas defended the popular Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand. As it turned out, it was no match for Daan’s Tudor Ranger. The new Ranger Dune White debuted during Dubai Watch Week and turned out to be the far more popular option. It ended up receiving 66% of the votes versus 34% for the C65 Dune Aeolian Sand. A quick scan of the comments shows that people prefer the cleaner dial of the Tudor Ranger over the redesigned “sand” dials of the Christopher Ward Dune. It was one of the main reasons the former took last week’s victory. Let’s find out which watch will win this week. Over to Mike and Jorg.
Jorg: Zenith Chronomaster Original in blue
Today’s match-up is another duo of watches that I love. In fact, I recently spent a considerable amount of time with the Speedmaster FOiS for a hands-on review, and I adore that watch. It is among my top three current Speedies to get after the current Moonwatch and the Calibre 321 “Ed White.” That makes for an awesome trio of modern Speedmasters that you could easily be a small but brilliant collection.
But if you are a regular Fratello reader, you know that my love for Zenith runs deep. Over the past five years, the brand has truly impressed me with a wide variety of historical and modern releases. That’s partly due to me taking a deep dive into Zenith’s history, as well as seeing the new creations that come out of the brand’s Le Locle headquarters. I’ve gone on record multiple times stating that the creative team at Zenith is probably the best in the industry right now.
Under the creative leadership of Chief Product Officer Romain Marietta and Creative Director Sébastien Gobert, the brand has unveiled a wide variety of brilliant releases. They range from great nods to Zenith’s past to wildly creative exercises that use the brand’s silhouettes as an adaptable canvas for some amazing dial variations.
The story of the blue-dial Zenith Chronomaster Original goes back in time
This Zenith Chronomaster Original is definitely in the first category. The watch is part of a series of blue-dial releases that came out this year to commemorate Zenith’s 160th anniversary. Here, it is worth noting that the trio of ceramic anniversary models and the brilliant G.F.J. unveiled during Watches and Wonders feature far brighter dials. However, this Chronomaster Original also refers back to the legendary El Primero A3818, also known as the “Cover Girl.” Zenith reintroduced the famous blue-dial version of the A384 in stainless steel in 2020 and in titanium in 2022, both in collaboration with Revolution.
This blue-dial version of the Chronomaster Original feels like the perfect combination of the blue A3818 Cover Girl dial with the classic looks of the A386 or Chronomaster Original. The watch features the famous 38mm case with pump-style pushers and comes with a modern three-row bracelet and a blue leather strap. The former, in particular, is important because it is a great step up from the original Gay Frères ladder bracelet.
The different versions of the Chronomaster Original
But the true star of the show is, of course, the dial. The original A386 dial was silvery white with three contrasting sub-dials in blue, light gray, and anthracite. When Zenith reintroduced the A386 in 2021, the brand not only renamed it the Chronomaster Original but also introduced new dial colors.
Over time, we have seen more dial variations that show the incredible power of the original design. Some of my favorites are the limited edition for Hodinkee, which has an opaline salmon dial and contrasting sub-dials in three shades of gray, and the black-dial version, which I had the pleasure of taking for a lengthy spin earlier this year.
A blue dial is not new for the Chronomaster Original
So, what about this new blue dial? As it turned out, it gives the watch a nice modern touch that surprised me in all the right ways. I am usually not a big fan of sunburst dials, but it provides this Chronomaster Original with a contemporary relevance that I adore. It feels crisper than the black-and-white-dial versions. Additionally, the combination of the blue dial with the classic A386 tricolor sub-dials is more visually appealing than the version with all-silver registers, which is also in the current Zenith catalog. It is more lively and hints at the great historical A386, which is a nice touch.
Inside the case, you will find the El Primero 3600 caliber. This is a modern version of the classic El Primero movement from 1969, which is an icon in watchmaking. The 3600 movement, like its predecessors, operates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, but it offers an upgraded 60-hour power reserve. Just like the Speedmaster’s caliber 3861, the El Primero 3600 is a descendant of a legendary chronograph movement.
Choosing one of the two great chronographs
So, why would I pick the Zenith over the Omega? As I mentioned earlier, I love both of these watches, which makes it a hard choice. But what it all comes down to is a general excitement that I get from seeing the Chronomaster Original. It’s partly visual, as I think the design is just a little more interesting and exciting than the current Speedmaster FOiS. But it’s also the excitement of knowing that every new release will be a great addition to the lineup.
In a slightly broader context, the creative team at Zenith consistently delivers outstanding results almost every time. I can drum up a list of at least 10 modern Zenith models that I would truly love to own. And I know that list will grow with almost every new Chronomaster Original and Chronomaster Revival that comes out. So it’s not a matter of rejecting the Speedmaster; rather, it’s a celebration of the Zenith Chronomaster Original. And I know that you have a soft spot for both of these watches as well, Mike, so I’m curious to hear your thoughts on them.
Mike: Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space
Once again, I’m back against my sparring partner, Jorg. If this were a real bout, I’d expect it to go the full 12 rounds because both of today’s contenders are up to the task. The Zenith Chronomaster Original is one of my favorite modern watches because it uses the A386 case. Plus, the dial layout is iconic, and it’s hard to fault the El Primero movement. Oddly, the second-gen Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space plays the part of the upstart challenger. It arrived in 2024, but it has established itself as a sweet spot in the Speedmaster lineup.
Classic looks, Goldilocks dimensions, and a great movement
I’ll be blunt; the original First Omega in Space (FOiS) was a miss. It felt like a confused watch with a weird mash-up of details that left it hanging between modern and retro. As is often not the case with films, though, Omega made sure the sequel was better than the original. The current FOiS is a surefire winner with its gray-blue sunray dial and aged Super-LumiNova detailing. It also offers a manual-winding solution for those who struggle to pull off the 42mm Speedmaster Professional. At just 39.7mm by 48mm, and with a slimmer straight-lugged profile, it’s a great everyday watch for a wide variety of wrists.
The straight-lugged case is legendary
Omega is fortunate that it has two Speedmaster case designs that are almost equally iconic. Sure, the lyre-lugged Speedmaster Professional made it to the Moon’s surface, but it was a straight-lugged Speedy that completed the first spacewalk. Therefore, choosing a watch like the FOiS doesn’t feel like a downgrade. It’s simply another option, and for an Omega addict, it may even complement the Speedy Pro as a second addition. Plus, there’s something clean about the straight-lugged look that I love. After all, an original Speedmaster “Ed White” 105.003 was my first Speedy crush.
A worthy movement to rival the El Primero
The First Omega in Space may not have the whizz-bang high-beat feature of the El Primero in the Chronomaster Original, but it’s no slouch. It uses the same manual-winding 3861 movement found in the Speedmaster Professional. That means it’s a certified Master Chronometer movement with a 50-hour power reserve (I always experience more than this with my 3861) and a frequency of 21,600 vph. Unlike the Zenith, it also has a more traditional— and, honestly, more useful — sub-dial layout. Yes, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers are simply better. Finally, there’s the subject of pricing. At €8,700, the current FOiS undercuts the €10,600 Chronomaster Original by nearly €2,000. That’s a big difference, but I suppose that’s all relative in this category. Still, it might be a factor for some buyers.
No wrong option
I won’t kid you: there’s no wrong choice in today’s Sunday Morning Showdown. The Omega and Zenith are both great modern watches with iconic vintage designs. Yes, the movements are different, but they’re also both worthy of consideration. Unfortunately, you can only choose one of these blue-dialed beauties. So, which will it be? Cast your vote, and let us know your reasons in the comments section below.
