Hublot regularly makes headlines. Most of the time, however, these headlines revolve around marketing and branding. A new superstar ambassador or a crazy limited edition is more likely to generate exposure than pure watchmaking prowess. Now, in part, this is down to Hublot’s doing. The house focuses on being radical, and it doesn’t mind stepping on some toes in the process. However, I feel this all leads us to underestimate the maison’s actual in-house movement manufacturing capabilities.

So the idea arose for an interview with Hublot about watchmaking and nothing else. In a written conversation with the brand’s chief product officer, Sadry Keiser, we covered Hublot’s history in developing proprietary calibers, current practices, and ambitions. While Mr. Keiser, of course, holds some promising cards to his chest, I think you will find plenty of interesting glimpses into Hublot’s future in his stories. Let’s dive in! 

Chief product officer of Hublot, Sadry Keiser

Chief product officer of Hublot, Sadry Keiser

Hublot’s history with in-house calibers

Thomas van Straaten (TVS): Can you provide our readers with a brief overview of Hublot’s history with designing, developing, and manufacturing in-house calibers?

Sadry Keiser (SK): Our journey into designing, developing, and manufacturing in-house calibers began in 2008. This was a pivotal moment for Hublot. We made the bold decision to move beyond simply relying on external suppliers and, instead, to establish our very own manufacturing capabilities. Our initial ambition was immense — to create an in-house flyback chronograph. This, even at a time when we didn’t possess a fully integrated manufacturing facility, showcased our profound drive for independence and innovation in fine watchmaking. It demonstrated our willingness to tackle the most complex horological challenges right from the very beginning.

Hublot in-house movement manufacturing — parts on a stand

Hublot’s watchmaking philosophy

TVS: How would you describe Hublot’s horological philosophy? What typifies a manufacture Hublot caliber and sets it apart from similarly spec’d offerings from other brands?

SK: Our horological philosophy can be summed up by always daring, always being ‘Unique, First, and Different.’ This isn’t just a phrase; it’s the very foundation of how we approach watchmaking. The Unico in-house caliber stands as a prime example of this philosophy in action. Developing an integrated flyback chronograph is a testament to our technical prowess. The fact that less than 1% of the market offers such a caliber truly underscores its exclusivity. Furthermore, the five patents Unico caliber holds highlight our dedication to genuine innovation and protecting our intellectual property. This approach allows us to create calibers that are not only high-performing but also distinctly, unmistakably Hublot, setting us apart through novel technical solutions.

TVS: What characteristics — technical, design-wise, or in terms of philosophy — are shared between your different in-house caliber families (Unico, Meca-10, and Tourbillon)?

SK: Innovation permeates every single one of our in-house caliber families; it’s our guiding principle. Whether you look at the sophisticated integration of our Unico chronographs, the impressive power reserve and architectural transparency of our Meca-10 movements, or the avant-garde artistry of our Tourbillons, you’ll find a consistent thread. Each caliber, despite its distinct function or aesthetic purpose, embodies our unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries in innovation, achieving technical excellence, and presenting a truly distinctive design. We ensure that every movement we create falls under this umbrella, ensuring that the Hublot DNA is present in every beat.

Hublot in-house movement manufacturing — casing the movement

Philosophies across the in-house movement families

TVS: Besides the obvious core functions, how do your various in-house movement families differ from one another?

SK: Beyond their individual complications, what truly unites all our in-house movements — and sets them apart [from competitors] — is our absolute dedication to employing the utmost technologies. This commitment spans from the very first concept sketch to the meticulous manufacturing process. We believe in an endless quality-improvement journey; for us, there is simply no finish line. While movements like the Unico focus on chronograph integration, the Meca-10 emphasizes power reserve and architectural skeletonization, and our Tourbillons showcase precision regulation, they all benefit from the same high-level technological approach. Their differences stem from the unique horological challenges each is designed to master.

The practice of in-house movement manufacturing

TVS: What parts of production are fully in-house, and which components are sourced from dedicated suppliers (to the extent this isn’t sensitive information, of course)?

SK: To truly understand our world and see the extent of our in-house production, we invite you to visit us! The doors of our manufacture in Nyon are always open, and visitors are most welcome. We take immense pride in what we achieve here. This invitation reflects our confidence in our significant vertical integration, especially for the critical components and the intricate assembly that define our in-house calibers. It’s the best way to witness the passion and precision that go into creating a Hublot movement. The same goes for materials; we produce sapphire and ceramics directly in-house, and you should come check this out!

TVS: Which technical accomplishments within the development and production of Hublot’s in-house movements are you most proud of?

SK: To choose just one is almost impossible; there are so many elements we’re incredibly proud of! But if I had to pinpoint the most significant accomplishment, it wouldn’t be a single patent or a revolutionary material. It would be the extraordinary ability of our people to work together, united, to overcome complex technical challenges. Without that collaborative mindset, that shared spirit of innovation, we simply wouldn’t be where we are today. Our greatest pride is truly in our team and the mindset all of the members choose to adopt. It’s the Hublot way of life!

Hublot in-house movement manufacturing — holding case of Big Bang Unico, movement on cushion

Hublot’s in-house ambitions

TVS: What are your ambitions for the short- and long-term future regarding in-house movement manufacturing?

SK: Our ambition is crystal clear. It is to be unequivocally recognized for what we consistently deliver, ‘contemporary and expressive fine watchmaking!’ We want our in-house movements to be acknowledged not just for their technical prowess but also for how they contribute to Hublot’s distinct aesthetic and our unique, innovative approach. We aim to solidify our position as a leading and influential force in high-end watchmaking, one that constantly pushes boundaries and shapes the future of horology through our creations.

Hublot Classic Fusion Grey case back and movement

TVS: Do you foresee a future in which all new Hublot watches have in-house calibers? Or will sourced, shared, and modified calibers remain cornerstones as well? Do you have a timeline in mind for this?

SK: A future with entirely in-house calibers is, without a doubt, a magnificent dream for every serious watchmaking company, including ours! For Hublot, it’s also about understanding the strategic rhythm and the precise reasons we do things. We make strategic decisions based on market demands, our production capacities, and the specific purpose of each watch collection. While it’s certainly a desired long-term goal, we remain pragmatic about the journey while working toward this goal. We are lucky to have many great in-house calibers [from other brands] within the LVMH group that we use today, and they’re great movements. 

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon detail

Putting the Hublot DNA into in-house movement manufacturing

TVS: Do you intentionally differentiate your in-house calibers from those of other brands within the group? If so, how?

SK: Yes, we absolutely differentiate our in-house calibers. Every brand within our group has a clear and distinct identity, and our movements are an integral part of expressing Hublot’s unique character. We do this by focusing on our specific ‘Art of Fusion’ philosophy, developing bold and architectural designs, and pioneering technical solutions that are characteristic of Hublot’s avant-garde spirit. Our in-house calibers are designed to resonate with our collectors who seek that distinctive Hublot blend of tradition and innovation.

TVS: Do you identify more as traditional watchmakers or as boundary-pushing innovators?

SK: As we always say, we proudly identify as a contemporary and expressive fine watchmaker. We deeply respect heritage, as we show with our Classic Fusion. Yet, our focus is firmly on reinterpreting and evolving traditions through a modern lens, imbuing them with our bold, distinctive aesthetic. This approach allows us to harness our rich heritage while simultaneously pushing boundaries in materials, design, and movement architecture, rather than being confined to either extreme.

LVMH Watch Week Highlights — orange and green Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Editions side by side

Recent Hublot creations

TVS: In line with the above, looking at the recent Djokovic GOAT Tourbillon, we see an aesthetically and architecturally radical caliber that offers functions that have been around for a long time. Does this say something about Hublot’s philosophy in terms of where and how innovation can (and should) be applied?

SK: At Hublot, one of our greatest strengths lies in our ability to take these famous and, in some way, traditional complications and project them squarely into our time – into today. The Djokovic GOAT Tourbillon is a perfect illustration of this philosophy. We take a classic mechanism and infuse it with a radical aesthetic and architectural design, making it profoundly relevant and exciting for a contemporary audience. This ‘projection’ involves seamlessly integrating advanced materials, modern design sensibilities, and often openworked structures, giving traditional mechanisms an unmistakable Hublot identity.

orange Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Novak Djokovic GOAT Edition case back and movement

TVS: Looking back at your earlier collaborations and comparing them with your latest efforts, we think we see less focus on the purely aesthetic and more on the horological and the technical. Are we right? Is that an intentional pursuit?

SK: We are perpetually nourished by both design and watchmaking. It is precisely the seamless fusion of these two elements that defines us — that makes Hublot, Hublot. What we aim for is the harmonious integration and dynamic interplay where design enhances watchmaking and vice versa, creating a distinctive product.

Hublot in-house movement manufacturing — watchmaker looking through his loupe

What future complications can we expect from Hublot?

TVS: Do you have any specific complications on your wish list for Hublot? Can we expect new functions?

SK: Yes, we most certainly do have specific complications on our wish list! And yes, you can absolutely expect new functions from Hublot. We are constantly driven by our passion for innovation, and that naturally leads us to explore new horological challenges and develop novel features for our movements.

Hublot Classic Fusion Sage Green wrist shot

TVS: Can we expect a time-only in-house Hublot caliber? Something for the base Classic Fusion models, perhaps?

SK: Being perceived and recognized for our expertise across all facets of watchmaking is a fundamental part of Hublot’s strategic roadmap. We are committed to doing everything in our power to achieve that goal!

Hublot Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic

Materials

TVS: What materials are currently most inspiring and promising for you? Are there any radical new materials we might see in Hublot calibers soon?

SK: Materials are at the core of all our innovation and product creations. As you know, we at Hublot pride ourselves on cultivating our ability to explore new horizons and push the boundaries of what’s possible, especially in materials. We are perpetually experimenting with and evaluating novel substances — not just for our cases and aesthetics but also increasingly for movement components. Properties like lightness, hardness, antimagnetism, or low friction can dramatically enhance performance. Stay tuned!

Hublot MP-17 Meca-10 Arsham Splash Titanium Sapphire collage

Looking back at in-house watchmaking in 50 years

TVS: If you imagine we’re in 2076, looking back at the 2020s, how do you think future watch aficionados will describe and appreciate this era of Hublot?

SK: When people look back from 2076 to this current era of Hublot, my sincerest hope is that they will describe us as one of the very best contemporary and expressive fine watchmaking Maisons. Our ambition is to be recognized not just for innovation or modernity but also for achieving unparalleled excellence in both the technical artistry of fine watchmaking and the distinctive, bold aesthetic of being contemporary and expressive. We strive to leave a legacy of unique contributions to the horological landscape, a testament to our enduring passion and vision.

Hublot in-house movement manufacturing — setting the hands

Closing thoughts

Sadry Keiser leaves two major impressions on me. One is about enthusiasm. His excitement for his work is tangible and contagious. We easily forget that deeply passionate people are behind these objects of our shared desire. The other is about pragmatic ambition. Clearly, Hublot is moving toward a fully in-house future. I appreciate Mr. Keiser’s openness about the business side of things, though. As enthusiasts, we often forget about this aspect. “Why don’t they just make a new caliber for that?” is easy to say. The reality, with its existing production lines, capacities, supply chains, timelines, stakeholders, and consumer behavior, isn’t quite so simple. 

Hublot premises

As alluded to before, Mr. Keiser certainly holds some cards to his chest. However, his invitation to visit the manufacture is no empty gesture. Our very own RJ took the tour, and he came away impressed by the watchmaking prowess on display. If you still think of Hublot as a branding exercise, you might want to take Mr. Keiser up on his invitation. 

I would like to thank Sadry Keiser and the people at Hublot who helped arrange this interview. I, for one, look forward to seeing Hublot’s version of a time-only caliber and new complications in the future!