The Best Overall Lineup? Parmigiani Fleurier At Watches And Wonders 2025
Writing and talking about watches is a lot of fun, but there are times when it’s a chore. Penning today’s article exemplifies the kind of “work” I enjoy. You see, Parmigiani is one of my favorite brands, hands down, and I’m always up for covering a new release. Today, I’ll go several steps better than that because we’re covering the brand’s full slate of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025.
In late 2023, soon after moving to London, I had the opportunity to attend a Parmigiani Fleurier event. I had seen and read about the brand’s watches but had never tried one on or seen one in the flesh. Obviously, that changed, and with it, so did my most-wanted list.
What makes Parmigiani so good?
With so many tempting watches on the market today, what separates Parmigiani from the rest? For me, it comes down to supremely elegant cases with remarkable finishing. Then, there are the incredible bracelets that feel thin, yet strong, with excellent articulation. And the movements? Vaucher, the company’s in-house movement division, makes gorgeous calibers from straightforward automatics to highly complicated perpetual calendars. However, something that struck me at this year’s Watches and Wonders show was the brand’s newfound mastery of color. We’ll see this on repeat as we walk through the litany of new models. Aside from one piece, every reference in this article was introduced at Watches and Wonders 2025. I chose to include a bonus watch because it’s currently sitting at number one on my “most desirable” list.
L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse
Parmigiani held a whirlwind “touch-and-feel” session in Geneva with almost all its new pieces. The exceptions were two pieces unique. The L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse debuted in two colors for a pair of lucky people. What made these 41.6mm white gold minute repeaters so unique is that the dial is on the back side of the case. The front is hand-guilloché with a pine cone motif and translucent Grand Feu enameling in either Desert Rose or Fjord Blue.
Engraving work is noticeable on the case flanks and evokes Doric columns. A sliding lever on the left side of the case activates the minute repeater. With the highly detailed front cover and a visible crown and lever, I assumed this was a hunter case watch. How wrong I was!
Surprisingly, the reverse displays time using two rose gold hands in appropriately shaped, “H” and “M” forms. A keen eye will note that the underlying dial is made of stone. In this case, it’s Guatemalan white jade. The L’Armoriale Répétition Minute Mystérieuse models use the in-house PF355, a manual winding movement with 72 hours of power reserve and 392 components. The cathedral gongs contain two hammers and are tuned to deliver a lasting chime. Even though we cannot see the movement, rest assured that it is highly finished with perlage, anglage, and Côtes de Genève.
The Toric Quantieme Perpetuel
Recently, I’ve declared that a perpetual calendar strikes me as one of the less useful complications. The Parmigiani Toric Quantieme Perpetuel throws a monkey wrench in my theory. The reason is simple, literally. These lovely 40.6mm by 10.9mm pieces in 18K rose gold or 950 platinum deliver all the information the complication affords in a clean, elegant manner. Two simple subdials and a set of centrally mounted hour and minute hands take care of everything.
In addition to a beautifully clean concept, the Toric blends vivid color with precious metals and precision finishing. The platinum model has a stunning morning blue 18K white gold dial, whereas the rose gold edition uses the same material throughout the design. Both watches were drop-dead gorgeous in person, with special marks for the blue variant.
The display case back reveals a work of art in the manual winding PF733 caliber. It is primarily crafted in 18K gold and features Côtes de Fleurier finishing on the main plates. Each steel bridge has hand anglage. Sixty hours of power reserve is helpful, but three easy pushers on the case side facilitate easy calendar setting. Each reference is limited to just 50 pieces. Pricing is on the exotic side at CHF 85,000 for the gold model and CHF 92,000 for the platinum reference.
The Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante
We kick off the parade of new Tonda releases with the Verzasca green GMT Rattrapante. This 40mm by 10.7mm watch is made of stainless steel and features a ridged platinum bezel. Like on the Toric, the dial color is stunning in person and represents the first update since the original Milano blue models debuted in 2022. The details rarely stop with Parmigiani, exemplified by a hand-guilloché Grain d’Orge dial and 18K rhodium-plated indices. Plus, the brand’s wonderfully comfortable and perfectly finished bracelet is included.
My colleague Thomas covered this watch during Watches and Wonders; we feel similarly about the piece. He mentioned his usual preference for simple base models. I concur because complications typically add clutter, ruining an otherwise harmonious design. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante avoids this with an exceedingly clever movement. The PF051 micro-rotor automatic is simple yet ingenious. The lower left pusher advances the rhodium-plated 18K hour hand to the local time zone. An 18K rose gold hand remains on home time. When returning home, a quick press of the gold monopusher on the crown returns the local hand to home time. Fancy a swim while traveling? This Tonda has a useful depth rating of 60 meters. For CHF 28,700, this strikes me as the most attractive luxury GMT on the market.
The Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm
Until now, modern Parmigiani chronographs have been larger than 40mm. The new Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm changes this with a smaller case and removal of the date function. For purists, this already sounds like a recipe for success. Thankfully, the good news continues with a case thickness of just 12.72mm and another lovely dial color — mineral blue. The stainless steel chronograph has a platinum bezel, hand-guilloché dial, and 18K rhodium-plated dial hardware. This model is available with a bracelet equipped with a concealed folding clasp.
I was able to handle the new 40mm chronograph and can confirm that it fits beautifully. The movement is also a step above most within the competitive set. It uses the brand’s COSC-certified PF070 integrated automatic with 65 hours of power reserve. It has a 30-minute subdial, running seconds, and a 12-hour counter. My favorite detail, however, is the high-beat frequency of 36,000vph. To help justify the watch’s CHF 31,500 price tag, Parmigiani has engineered this watch with a depth rating of 100 meters.
The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet
Parmigiani has taken a different approach with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet models. Instead of steel or precious metals, these new pieces are made entirely of Ultra-Cermet, a mix of ceramic and metal. Yes, this includes the case, bezel, pushers, crown, and buckle. The aerospace material has properties from each ingredient, including the ceramic’s hardness and the metal’s lightness. Furthermore, the blackish surface appears in polished and brushed forms.
Two 42.5mm by 13.3 models, London Grey and Milano Blue, were released at Watches and Wonders to great excitement. After all, Parmigiani has largely avoided making sportier pieces. Still, the attention to detail was evident during our session. Because these pieces are made for an active lifestyle, the black-coated 18K hands and indices contain luminous material. Fine-grained vertical stain finishing is present on each dial. While these watches were a bit too large for my wrist, I hope the brand continues to develop Ultra-Cermet and that it becomes available in additional models.
Like the Chronograph 40mm, the PF Sport Chronograph Ultra-Cermet references use the high-beat PF070 automatic. The 22K gold rotor adds a classy dose of contrast and is visible through a sapphire display case back. Once again, the watches have a water resistance rating of 100 meters and are fitted with appropriately durable rubber straps and Ultra-Cermet pin buckles. Each color is priced at CHF 39,900.
Tonda PF Skeleton
Judging from the chatter in the busy press conference room, the GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Skeleton garnered the most praise. Parmigiani has produced this reference using different colors and case materials. The latest limited edition of 50 pieces is housed in a 40mm by 8.5mm stainless steel case with a platinum bezel. Slate green is used on the open-worked dial and for key movement components.
The brand sought to enhance legibility by using raised rhodium-plated 18K gold indices and skeletonized hands. Finishing is also on show with hand anglage on many satin-finished open-worked bridges. An in-house PF777 automatic with a 22K white gold rotor beats away at a frequency of 28,800vph. Specs including 60 hours of power reserve and a depth rating of 100 meters allow this haute horlogerie example to act as a daily watch. At CHF 65,000, it won’t be a common sight, but it will be a lovely one.
The Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue
The last Parmigiani on our recap of all the Watches and Wonders novelties wasn’t truly a new release. The Tonda PF 36mm Automatic Stone Blue was released a month before the event. However, it was the first time many of us had seen it live. I’ve lusted after a 36mm Tonda PF since late 2023, but I’ve fallen head over heels for the new Stone Blue dial. The color is amazing!
Everything one would expect from a Parmigiani is on this stainless steel watch, including a hand-guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and rhodium-plated 18K hands and indices. Let’s not forget the best bracelet on the luxury watch market that wraps beautifully around the wrist. When combined with the 8.6 mm-thick Tonda PF case, it’s magical. It simply feels like a watch that never would or should leave the arm.
The PF770 automatic movement is no slouch either. It is adjusted to five positions, runs at 28,800vph, and has a power reserve of 60 hours. The 22K rotor combines with Côtes de Genève finishing, ensuring a message of attention to finishing that applies to its most affordable pieces. It’s also made for constant use with a depth rating of 100 meters. Yes, I will own one of these at some point. I just need to find CHF 21,400!
The best set of releases in Geneva?
Watches and Wonders 2025 was significantly better than 2024. There were significant releases from many companies that weren’t just about color variants. However, one brand caught (and kept) my attention more than any other. Parmigiani brought a lot of new watches to Geneva, and I struggle to name a bad one. All were beautifully finished, well-sized, and came in attractively different colors. Parmigiani has reinvented itself in the elegant but sporty watch category over the past five years. The brand is incredibly competitive now, making some of the best watches available. If you haven’t tried one on recently, I highly recommend visiting an authorized dealer and doing so. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.
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