Turning Visual Brilliance Up To Eleven With A White Gold Rolex Datejust With A Burl Wood Dial
Since we’re celebrating the 80th birthday of the Rolex Datejust, we thought it would be a good idea to have Fratello writers pick their favorite one of all time. The biggest challenge of writing an article in the tail-end of this Datejust series is that other writers have already claimed some of my favorite picks. But no man overboard because there is plenty of Datejust goodness to choose from. Having said that, I changed the focus of my article from my favorite Datejust, which I would buy, to what, in my eyes, is the best Datejust ever produced. With that change of perspective, I picked the absolutely stunning Rolex Datejust ref. 16019 with a burl wood dial. It’s rare, it’s expensive, but it is my favorite Datejust. Period.
Let’s quickly return to my remark about other writers already claiming my favorite Datejusts. As I explained in an article I wrote at the beginning of the year, I would love to add a Rolex Datejust to my collection. In the article, I picked five affordable Datejust options that are worth checking out when you are in the market for one. Two of them are the classic ref. 1601 and the slightly more modern ref. 16234. Those two references are at the top of my list, and if you have read this series, you know that Thomas and Robert-Jan selected those as their favorite Datejusts, which left me with the dilemma of what to go with as my pick.
Setting some ground rules for my Rolex Datejust pick
There are two non-negotiables for me when it comes to a Datejust. First, it needs to be 36mm, and second, the watch must have a white gold fluted bezel. That’s how I—and most of the Fratello writers—prefer their Datejust. Preferably, I combine that case with a Jubilee bracelet, but as you will see, that is not always a must-have.
With the stainless steel ref. 1601 and the ref. 16234 taken, that left two options. The first is a two-tone Datejust. For me, it is the archetypal gold and steel watch. If you ever need a leeway into gold watches or you simply love the look of steel and gold, the Datejust is the one to go for.
Image: Bulang & Sons
But is that the best option? Honestly, it would never be my first pick of the bunch. This led me to a series of top-five articles I wrote on the Datejust. One of them focused on Datejust models with exotic dials. And that’s when it hit me: that’s where I will find my favorite Rolex Datejust. Once I made the connection, picking my favorite was easy.
Image: Bulang & Sons
While I love yellow gold Datejusts with a stone dial, they also tend to be too close for comfort to their older brother. When it comes to that combination of materials and dials, I prefer a Day-Date. But that’s when I was reminded of the brilliance of the white gold Datejust ref. 16019 with a burl wood dial. It’s a super rare bird that goes for ridiculous money. But it is my favorite Datejust pick, budget be damned.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The Rolex Datejust ref. 16019 burl wood
Those who know and recognize their Datejust references realize you don’t see the ref. 16019 all that often. The Datejust reference 160xx series was introduced in 1977 as the follow-up to the popular ref. 16xx series. Their most significant advantage was an upgrade of the caliber 3035 with a quick-set date feature.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
What remained was the acrylic crystal and the classic Datejust look. Having said that, for the regular models, one crucial thing changed. The charming pie-pan dials disappeared in favor of more straightforward dials. But it is an omission that my ref. 16019 does not “suffer” from, as it makes up for it with a special wood dial.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The canvas for this special dial is the white gold version of the 36mm Datejust. It offers a stealth luxury feel because it might look like a regular stainless steel Datejust with an exotic dial at first glance. But it’s a very rare white gold version of the classic Datejust.
Rolex produced very few white gold Datejusts compared to yellow gold or stainless steel versions, for that matter. But as you can see, the material does have a different look and feel compared to stainless steel. It looks softer on the brushed parts and more brilliant on the polished parts. It’s an overall look that I adore.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
One of the few times the Oyster bracelet is brilliant on a Datejust
For this specific watch, which you see in the pictures, Amsterdam Vintage Watches sold a white gold case matched with a classic Oyster bracelet. However, we have also seen white gold Datejust models fitted with a white gold President bracelet. I generally would prefer the latter.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
But for this exceptional ref. 16019, I quite like the look of the riveted Oyster bracelet. It simply looks very cool with the polished center links and the visible rivets on the sides. It creates a wonderful backdrop for the unique dial.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The “radial” dial is the star of the show here. The unique burl wood dial has a color and depth you hardly see. If you are a regular Fratello reader, you know I have a thing for dark brown dials, so this is right up my alley. But it’s more than just the color. The unique presence of the burl wood is nothing short of stunning.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
It gives the watch a certain depth and detail that is spectacular. The dial is matched with a brilliant white gold minute track that integrates the hour markers flawlessly. They are all the same length, but the hour markers are somewhat thicker to make them stand out. The track is only interrupted by the Rolex cyclops at 3 o’clock and the brand’s coronet at 12 o’clock.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The Rolex Datejust ref. 16019 burl wood is my favorite Datejust ever produced
What you end up with is an atypical Rolex Datejust. As you all know, the Datejust universe is incredibly diverse. But in all that variation, this ref. 16019 stands out immediately. The combination of the white gold case and bracelet with the burl wood “radial” dial makes for an absolutely stunning Datejust. For me, this is the best Datejust ever produced.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
It has all the elements of a classic Datejust with a brilliant twist. On top of that, it is the kind of “stealth wealth” that I greatly enjoy. The watch doesn’t have the standout presence of a yellow gold model, and that’s what I appreciate. Additionally, it doesn’t stand out as an incredibly rare Rolex unless you know what you are looking at. But you are looking at a watch that trades hands for six figures. But as you will hopefully understand, that is not what makes this Datejust so good. If anything, it’s the one thing keeping me from buying one.
