Why I Could Fall In Love With The Quirky Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570

There’s an odd sort of feeling to taking a Rolex Explorer II into the ocean. Even here, off the rolling waves of Sydney’s eastern beaches, you notice something about this watch that most sports watches I’ve spent time with simply don’t share: it feels in its element. You don’t take a 16570 into the surf so you can show it off. You take it because it quietly belongs there.

At first glance, the Explorer II isn’t showy. With its 40mm stainless steel case, fixed 24-hour bezel, and black dial housed under a flat sapphire crystal, it looks like a watch built to work, not to be admired across a crowded bar. Yet there’s a quiet confidence in that purposeful symmetry — a confidence that becomes addictive once you’ve spent time with it.

The black-dial variant, with its glossy, deep backdrop and white-gold surrounds framing the hour markers, is the understated brother to the more frequently discussed “Polar.” I’ll admit it: I’ve always leaned toward the white dial. The stark contrast, the way it plays with light, and the slightly more expressive personality just speak to me. But the black dial is classical in a way that feels arguably more faithful to the Explorer lineage. It should also be noted that the white-dial variant is Fratello Managing Editor Nacho’s favorite. Either way, the Explorer II is restrained, serious, and timeless.

Into the Pacific Ocean with the Rolex Explorer II

Waves roll in like clockwork along Sydney’s eastern shorelines, and to me, that’s not unlike the 16570’s personality — consistent, playful, and unpretentious. Strap it on before a morning swim, and you feel the balance immediately. With a 12.2mm thickness, it sits flat and secure, never top-heavy, never dramatic. The 100m water resistance is more than sufficient for a dip, a surf, or an impulsive plunge off the rocks. This is an era of Rolex design that feels more restrained, in some ways, than modern offerings — less blingy and more like a tool watch.

Underwater, the watch doesn’t shimmer like a dedicated diver. There’s no rotating bezel to time your set, no oversized luminous markers screaming for attention. Instead, the dial remains composed. The red GMT hand, that small flash of adventure, cuts across the black dial with quiet purpose. It’s a reminder that this watch was conceived not for beaches but for caves, expeditions, and the tracking of time beyond the horizon. And yet, it feels entirely at home in saltwater.

The neo-vintage sweet spot

What truly cements the 16570’s appeal today is its position in that sweet spot we often describe as “neo-vintage.” Produced from the late 1980s to 2011, it seamlessly bridges two Rolex eras. Early examples carry tritium lume and drilled lugs, details that tug at the heartstrings of traditionalists. Later iterations introduced Super-LumiNova and the upgraded caliber 3186 with a Parachrom hairspring, quietly modernizing the package without altering its essential character.

The proportions are key. Thanks to its 40mm diameter, modest 47mm lug-to-lug, and 12.2mm profile, the case feels trim compared to modern sports Rolex models. The fixed steel bezel remains purposeful and legible. The bracelet, lighter than today’s equivalents, contributes to a wearing experience that feels agile rather than overbuilt. While contemporary enough for daily use, it’s also old enough to possess warmth and personality. That balance is becoming increasingly rare.

Understated sophistication

The black dial amplifies the Explorer II’s tool-watch ethos. While the white dial feels slightly more expressive, almost playful in certain light, the black dial is pure restraint. It absorbs light rather than reflecting it, and it pairs well with everything, from board shorts at Bronte Beach to a suit in the central business district and a sweater on a long-haul flight. It never feels out of place. This kind of watch suits the more relaxed Australian coastal lifestyle well.

One of the most appealing aspects of living with this reference is how little attention it attracts. Among enthusiasts, it prompts a knowing nod. Among everyone else, it passes quietly under the radar. In a world where modern luxury sports watches can demand attention, the 16570 earns appreciation slowly. It’s a watch for the wearer rather than the audience.

Concluding thoughts

There’s also an emotional component to its appeal. Neo-vintage Rolex represents a period when mechanical watchmaking had firmly survived the Quartz Crisis but hadn’t yet become the spectacle it is today. The 16570 feels like a product of that calmer confidence. It doesn’t rely on nostalgia alone, nor does it chase modernity. I have certainly drunk the Kool-Aid and own a neo-vintage Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600. Neo-vintage Rolex is less pretentious; it simply exists, perfectly balanced between nostalgia and modernity. After a swim, rinsed under fresh water and left to dry in the morning sun, the black dial takes on a subtle sheen. The steel softens in tone. The red GMT hand rests patiently, ready for the next time zone, the next trip, the next early alarm. It’s in those quiet post-ocean moments that the watch’s appeal crystallizes.

As collectors continue to rediscover the charm of neo-vintage Rolex, the 16570 stands out as one of the most honest expressions of the brand’s tool-watch DNA. And while my heart may still lean ever so slightly toward the white dial, the black remains the purist’s choice, classical, understated, and effortlessly cool. In the end, perhaps that’s why it feels so right in the ocean off Sydney — not because it was designed for the sea, but because it was designed for life. And life, as it turns out, includes saltwater, sunrise, and the quiet satisfaction of wearing something that asks nothing of you, except to be worn. I can see why Nacho likes this watch so much. It grows on you. While this isn’t my first pick for a neo-vintage Rolex (that title goes to the aforementioned Sea-Dweller), this Explorer II provides a lot of quirky design language. The best thing of all? Perhaps the Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570 is not the most desirable neo-vintage option, meaning you can get one at a price that seems not too unreasonable in an era of constant price hikes.