“Collectors Are Helping Me Avoid Mistakes” — A Talk With Georges Kern On The House Of Brands

During Dubai Watch Week, I sat down with Georges Kern to discuss his House of Brands group, which consists of Gallet, Breitling, and Universal Genève. His work on adding Gallet and Universal Genève to his portfolio has not gone under the radar. In recent times, we noticed a lot of speculation, rumors, previews, and advisory-board sessions. In 2026, with great anticipation, we will see Gallet and Universal Genève return to life and join Breitling in the House of Brands group.

The House of Brands — Gallet, Breitling, Universal Genève

How is it to work on the revival of these brands in an economic climate that is far from ideal? We live in challenging times, but Georges Kern seems imperturbable in his mission to build this new house with three exciting brands. Before this interview with Kern, I wondered if he’s really that calm, as the cards for 2026 don’t look particularly good in general.

We meet in the Breitling “house” in Dubai, with the Dubai Mall and its impressive fountains in the background. Upon entering, the Breitling hostess asks me if I have a few minutes to spare, as Kern is going from one appointment to another. The coffee at the Breitling bar is among the best at the Dubai Watch Week exhibition, and it makes the wait enjoyable, not least of all because the air conditioning inside cools me down to more European temperatures again.

And then it’s time. I hear my name called, and in front of me is Kern. Dressed sharply, even in this heat, he is obviously in full-concentration mode. Even though this is just one of many interviews for him, he takes the time to answer all my questions, and I quickly realize that his calmness is not an act. Kern is as determined as those who perform at the highest level in sports. Not only do they not think about losing, but they also have no doubts or hesitation. We sit down in a meeting room in this typical Breitling boutique setting, and I fire away with my questions.

Robert-Jan Broer: So, it’s almost the end of the year. How do you look back at 2025, and what were the most difficult challenges? It was not an easy year for the watch industry, was it?

Georges Kern:

No, it was not. I mean, we are in a kind of gloomy environment since basically 2 or 3 years after COVID, inflation, interest rates rising, et cetera, and suddenly consumption went down. Look at the stock exchange market, no ending wars, incredible weakness of the EU economy, especially Germany, and political instability.

I mean, the whole thing obviously is having an impact on consumers’ minds, then the tariffs, 39%, well, now it has gone down to 15%. I’ve been in the industry for 30 years and it has never been as bad as today.

The crises in the past were much shorter, and this one is really, so I’m saying, particular. I’m a cyclist, and you win the race in the mountains not when it’s flat and easy Everybody can ride flat or downhill. But it’s when going up, and you leave your competition behind.

Breitling Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 NFL Team Edition – Pittsburgh Steelers

We are very active in terms of innovation. We’re now developing our movements 100% in-house, for example, and we’ve signed huge partnerships, such as the one with the NFL, which is a gigantic deal in our most important market, the US. Thankfully, the tariffs are at least comparable to those in Europe. And we are in big preparation for next year, not only for Breitling, but also for the revival of Universal Geneve and Gallet, obviously.

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS 70th Anniversary (2024)

RJB: Could you provide a brief update on Universal Genève and Gallet, their current status, upcoming developments, and what people can expect?

GK: This is the first time we’re presenting the House of Brands and it is the perfect moment here in Dubai; we have all our collections of all three brands here. We show it to retailers and the press.

You need to have negotiated retail spaces, boutiques. I mean, it takes a year. Universal Genève will be launched at the beginning of April, and Gallet will be launched at the Geneva Watch Days in September.

Universal Genève Polerouter advertisement from 1958

RJ: Why not at the same time? Is that a matter of allocating capacity?

GK: No, I want to give each brand the necessary space. I have three launches to coordinate. Breitling, Universal Geneve and Gallet. So, we need to find ways to allow all three brand the right amount of attention. But in 30 years in the industry, I’ve never seen such a positive reaction to a brand like Universal Genève. I mean, and I just had collectors’ clubs, and they said, ‘Where can I order this?’ ‘Where can I place my order?’ I mean, I could sell my yearly production here on the spot.

It’s crazy. 30 years of experience, also means 30 years of mistakes. And now, making sure to avoid them all with Universal Genève. It’s that plus my advisory board of 40 people, including collectors, watch experts etc. who are not telling me what to do, but what not to do.. And this is phenomenal.

And I must say, Gallet, it’s totally different. But in case you are doubting the potential success in the entry luxury segment: There’s no correlation between price point and being successful or not. I can give you names of many accessible luxury brands, which are successful and haute-horlogerie brands, which are unsuccessful. The only correlation you have is doing the right thing to be successful at any price point.

And, the fact that I have the distribution network of Breitling as well as the manufacturing knowhow and capacity of Breitling for Gallet, also mentioned on the caseback with manufactured by Breitling, changes the game. I would have never done it and launched at that price point, without being able to use these synergies.

Breitling Boutique Den Haag

And if you have the distribution network of 300 boutiques in place,  this is equal to the most competitive distribution of an access luxury brand in the world.  

We have a very wide but complementary offering for the retailers. We have the same price for each reference per collection, and we will have only a few references per collection. The diversity you will get through the different straps, which are all interchangeable.

RJB: I have been wondering why these Gallet watches are not chronometer certified? After all, that’s such a strong selling point for Breitling.

GK: Yes. Because it comes with a cost.

We will have watches with an automatic movement of incredible quality at around CHF 2,500. One day we might consider having chronometer-certified movements for Gallet, but it will affect the price of the watches.

At Breitling, it’s different because we have a much higher price point. And having them chronometer-certified makes sense.

Gallet Multichron Yachting from the 1960s

RJB: You recently said that you will not work for a group ever again. But now you have the House of Brands. Isn’t that a group? How do you make sure you don’t run into the same pitfalls you would with a group?

GK: Because I’m the boss. That helps, because I decide. No, seriously, the groups I don’t want to work for have dozens of brands. What we want is a meaningful, curated collection of unique brands under House of Brands as a new offering not only attractive for retailers but for consumers.

Gallet is a new offering, and Universal Genève is a very new and differentiated offering at that price point. And Breitling is in the biggest market, let’s say between 4000 and 30,000, and is doing very well.

Now that we are more mature, we go to the next step: the iconization of Breitling’s  3 outstanding product lines with decades of history and heritage. It’s a very attractive challenge to launch a brand and to do it right: to offer something new to the market. And this is what we’re doing right now, but we don’t have the aim of becoming a group with numerous brands.

Universal Genève Tribute To Compax

RJB: You once told me you’re aiming for CHF 2 billion in turnover with these three brands. What would the breakdown look like?

GK: In turnover, Universal Genève has the same potential as Breitling. With Gallet, it is much less, because we don’t aim for wide distribution. We don’t want hundreds of points of sale. The aim was to cover the full spectrum in terms of price points and use synergies.

So here we have something to plug in as a sister brand. It’s very simple. But without that, I wouldn’t have done it. Imagine if you have to create all the infrastructure to do this?

RJB: I know that a lot of people have been looking forward to Gallet’s return, especially collectors of vintage watches. How do you manage the high expectations of these collectors?

GK: It’s a challenge because the level of expectation is through the roof. I was never in a comparable situation in my whole career where I experienced that level of expectation I have now.

Most of these people are telling me “don’t screw it up.” But this is why I have an advisory board of 40 people, collectors who are helping me to avoid mistakes.

And a colleague of yours said this is probably the most important relaunch of the century. Okay, I hope it’s not, but… [laughs]

Universal Genève Compax

But from all the dormant brands, Universal Genève is the most incredible one. In terms of history, stories, and products. Collectors have dreamt of seeing this brand being revived. These are icons that people are hunting for. From the Polerouter, the Compax Nina, Tri-Compax, you name it.

Universal Genève Polerouter SAS 70th Anniversary (2024)

I wouldn’t say that I’m under pressure, but I don’t want to mess it up. I’m going to do things, nobody at that price point is doing. Just as the name says it all: Le Couturier de la montre.

So, we can surprise the market. And in 2026, the market will be extremely surprised!