Entry-Level Cartier: Four Options From New To Vintage
Cartier is a brand that has been on an absolute roll in recent years. Some readers may remember a time when self-proclaimed watch geeks unfairly considered Cartier “a jewelry brand that also sells watches.” However, the tide of perception has truly shifted in the last decade or so, and Cartier’s timepieces now seem hotter than ever. Today, I’m looking at four entry-level options that provide the Cartier magic without breaking the bank.
When I say “Cartier magic,” I’m referring to the cultural power that the brand has developed over time. Cartier’s focus on shapes in its watches means multiple models in its current and back catalogs are truly iconic. Today, however, we’re looking at options on the more affordable end of the spectrum. Looking at entry-level Cartier watches is not without its issues, but there are wonderful options still out there.
Cartier Tank Normale — Image: Wind Vintage
Cartier as a modern maison
Cartier is a maison known for its iconic case shapes. Among them are the Santos, the Tonneau, the Pasha, and the list goes on. The Tank, however, must be the brand’s most famous creation. Within the Tank family, we find so many standalone icons, including the Tank Normale, the Tank Américaine, and the Tank Française.
The Cartier Tank Normale is a watch design that I have been lusting over for more than a year. I even wrote about it while pursuing a vintage Longines watch earlier this year. Something is alluring about the shape and proportions, which just seem to speak to me of timeless elegance. Sadly, the Tank Normale is beyond my budget. This sad state of affairs is part of what inspired the idea for this article. Without further ado, let’s dive in.
The vintage Must de Cartier Tank (Large)
With a 23mm diameter and 30mm length, the vintage Must de Cartier Tank in the “large” size happens to be somewhat of a classic proportion for Cartier, as it comes close to matching the Tank Louis Cartier. The Must de Cartier Tank debuted in 1976 and cost customers around US$500 at the time. The watch was the design brainchild of Alain-Dominique Perrin and Robert Hocq.
Many examples of Must de Cartier Tank models are available on the secondary market for less than €2,000, making them quite reasonably priced for such an iconic case shape from a well-known maison. The reasoning behind its creation was Cartier’s desire to bring new customers through the door with more attainable horological options. The Must de Cartier Tank was based on the original Tank Louis Cartier and made of gold-plated silver.
Indeed, because the watch cases are silver, the watches are technically made from a precious metal. However, the fact that these vintage Cartier watches proved so popular makes hunting for a relatively affordable Tank in excellent condition fairly straightforward, all things considered. I am the proud owner of one such Must de Cartier Tank, and find it a wonderful watch to wear out.
Sure, the gold plating on the case can flake off, revealing the silver underneath, but if you get one in good condition, it will prove to be a keeper. Another issue is “spidering” (cracked lacquer) on certain dials. Once again, like the purchase of any vintage watch, it’s worth doing your research and finding an example in the sort of condition you’re after without compromising. The usual rule applies to vintage mechanical and quartz calibers alike: have the watch checked by a watchmaker for issues!
The modern Tank Must SolarBeat
Today, we can still purchase new Tank Must de Cartier models that come with a variety of dials. I am quite fond of the one in black, reviewed here. Some models in the line were recently updated with solar-powered calibers, which is a great development. This is the latest generation of the Must de Cartier line and provides similar design language with modern benefits in machining and build. The small model on a bracelet now lists for €3,950 and the large model for €4,200.
This means that they can edge out to be about twice as expensive as their vintage counterparts, but if you’re after a newer watch with the same degree of pedigree and the technical advancements we have seen in the decades since the original was produced, then have at it! A solar-powered quartz caliber is a very useful feature for a dress watch like these Must de Cartier pieces.
A 36mm Cartier Ronde Must
The Cartier Ronde Must
The steel Cartier Ronde Must is an interesting proposition in a distinctly round case. Though Cartier currently doesn’t offer the watch in most major markets, several 36mm examples are available on Chrono24 in the €2,500–3,500 range. Inside is a quartz caliber, but the watch has that distinct Cartier quality with a beautiful design aesthetic.
A 40mm Cartier Ronde Must
The watch case itself is reminiscent of small pocket watches, and the beautifully clean dial with Roman numerals is impressive in its elegance. Options are available in 40mm × 9.62mm, 36mm × 7.89mm, and 29mm x 7.54mm cases. My pick would be the 36mm version, as it seems the most universally wearable.
The 40mm Ronde comes with an automatic caliber, which pushes up the price. The dial is sandblasted silver, with an elegant minute track and blued sword-shaped hands. I have long been intrigued by the Ronde line, and there are many bargains to be found on the secondary market. To me, the Ronde feels like a criminally under-discussed and under-appreciated wristwatch from the maison.
The Cartier Santos Galbée
The Cartier Santos Galbée is a fascinating avenue for the discerning buyer. Vintage examples can be found for well under €4,000. However, it’s worth paying attention to case sizes and whether it has a quartz or mechanical caliber. I would recommend going for a mechanical version if possible. Understandably, the automatic 32mm models, like my colleague Daan’s, tend to sell for more than their smaller counterparts. You can generally find these for less than €5,600. With that money, you get one of the true icons from Cartier.
Image: Raffael Frenner
The world’s first watch for pilots
A bit of backstory to the Santos, which I reviewed here: in 1906, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont was discussing a frustration with his friend Louis Cartier. A French businessman and jeweler, Cartier lent his sympathetic ear as Santos-Dumont bemoaned the difficulty of checking his pocket watch while flying. Both his hands needed to be on the aircraft controls, so fumbling for his watch was difficult and dangerous. The idea came that Santos-Dumont would need a watch he could wear on his wrist so that he could safely check the time while flying.
Thus, the design for the Cartier Santos-Dumont came about. Utilizing Roman numerals and a distinct case design, the watch would go on to become a pioneer in itself — the first watch for pilots, one of the first wristwatches in general, and one of the first tool watches. What a triumvirate!
Image: Precision Watches
Concluding thoughts
If you would like to learn more about Cartier watches in general, I encourage you to read this feature. It is by my late Fratello colleague George Kramer, and it is worth your time. But there you have it — four examples of what we could fairly consider entry-level Cartier watches. Sure, these aren’t small sums of money, but in the scheme of the luxury watch world, they aren’t large sums either. One final example worth an honorable mention is the Cartier Pasha. For those who are open to its divisive design language, it’s a fantastic timepiece.
What about you, Fratelli? What entry-level Cartier would you go for? I’m interested in reading your suggestions in the comments.
Header image: Werner Watches
