Hands-On: The New Grand Seiko SLGB005 With A Mesmerizingly Beautiful Purple Dial
Usually, new dial variations tend to be the least surprising novelties in the watch world. If we’re talking about a new Grand Seiko dial, though, I’m all ears. When I first saw the Grand Seiko SLGB005 in a lineup of six models, it didn’t instantly grab my attention. The recently released “Sunrise” Tentagraph SLGC006 and “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 immediately jumped out at me when I opened the box. However, I love unusual dial colors, so when I noticed this dark purple dial, it immediately intrigued me. That intrigue quickly transformed into an adoration for one of the most beautiful dials I have seen recently. Let me elaborate on that.
In every press release, Grand Seiko makes a point to explain what inspired the craftspeople at the brand’s manufacture to create the special dials. Often, the inspiration comes from the stunning landscapes in Iwate Prefecture, the home of the Grand Seiko Studio in Shizukuishi. My Fratello teammates and I often crack a little smile whenever the usual references appear in the press materials because, honestly, they can be a bit much. That said, when a dial is as good as this new purple one, the smile is one of sheer admiration. After spending a couple of days with the new Grand Seiko SLGB005, I realized I’d found my favorite Grand Seiko release of the year.
The story of the Grand Seiko U.F.A. models
Before I explain why I love this purple dial so much, let’s go back to April of this year. One of Grand Seiko’s big releases at Watches and Wonders was the duo of Spring Drive U.F.A. SLGB001 and SLGB003 models. I had the pleasure of writing the hands-on intro article, which I suggest you read to get all the background info on Grand Seiko’s quest for accuracy. The story dates back to the late 1960s when the brand released its famous V.F.A. (Very Fine Adjusted) models. Until the mid-1970s, Grand Seiko released a small number of these very impressive watches that perfectly displayed its watchmaking excellence.
A new chapter in that famous story began earlier this year when Grand Seiko unveiled two Ultra Fine Accuracy (U.F.A.) models powered by the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber. This movement is accurate to ±20 seconds per year or approximately ±3 seconds per month. These are impressive numbers from a brand-new caliber housed in a beautiful Evolution 9 case.
The Evolution 9 collection combines the best in Grand Seiko’s caliber production with modern, angular cases rooted in the brand’s famous Grammar of Design. The case for the U.F.A. models represents the evolution of the 1967 44GS design. As a result, it feels familiar but has plenty of modern traits that make it relevant and interesting.
The new Grand Seiko SLGB005
Grand Seiko used the same case design for the SLGB005. But whereas the first two models were executed in 950 platinum (SLGB001) and High-Intensity Titanium (SLGB003), this new model comes in stainless steel. While I have nothing against titanium or platinum, I prefer the weight of this new model in Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel. Maybe even more importantly, the color of the metal works incredibly well with the stunningly beautiful purple dial. This dial goes from a deep, dark purple under artificial light to a wonderful and lively aubergine in sunlight.
Inspiration for this dial came from the Kirigamine Highlands, located east of the Shinshu Watch Studio. According to Grand Seiko, in the morning light, the frost-covered trees awaken a violet glow that inspired the dial for this new 1,300-piece limited edition. The gradient dial gets even more depth thanks to its beautiful texture. It provides the perfect backdrop for the hands and applied indexes to pop. As you would expect, the hands and hour markers are finished beautifully, increasing the visual impact.
The magic of the purple dial is stunning
That brings me to the difficult part of this review. How do I explain the magic of this wonderful dial? I am inclined to say that it’s impossible to do so without seeing it in the metal. But let me start by saying that I love rich, deep dial colors that are not the usual blue, black, white, or gray. I recently wrote an article about the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, explaining my love for exploring new colors. The German brand has recently released several watches introducing lesser-seen colors and unconventional combinations.
It’s part of a bigger shift across the industry that takes a step away from the usual color palette. Just think of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric collection, Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual dial colors, and the great efforts from Nomos. However, if there is one brand that has long impressed us with a wildly varied palette of inspiring dial colors, it’s Grand Seiko. While we could label the industry’s shift as a trend, Grand Seiko’s efforts are anything but. Indeed, the combination of interesting colors and, importantly, textures has long made Grand Seiko dials stand out.
My favorite Grand Seiko dials
When recalling spectacular dials, the one Grand Seiko watch that immediately comes to my mind is the pink-dial SBGA413 “Shunbun.” It is still one of my favorites from the brand, and it beautifully celebrates the changing Japanese seasons. The dial was inspired by the Japanese spring, when the pink cherry blossoms fall on the water and become hanaikada, or “flower rafts.” The result is a dial that’s still as impactful as when it came out as a US exclusive in 2019. Thanks to its huge popularity, it has since become part of the regular collection. I am happy about this, especially since I would love to add it to my collection at some point.
Having said that, the SBGA413 “Shunbun” has some stiff competition from this new SLGB005. The stunning dial looks deep, dark purple in darker light conditions. From some angles, it almost looks grayish-black. But as soon as you move the dial, the rich purple shade reveals itself. Another detail is that the color fades from a slightly lighter shade to a super dark, almost blackish purple at the edges of the dial. Then, the rich texture increases the dial’s impact by adding beautiful depth. I could rave on for a while about how stunning this dial is, but I think you get the point: this is one of Grand Seiko’s best in a while.
Wearing the new Grand Seiko SLGB005
What makes the watch even better is the full package. The 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber is modest in size, with a 30mm diameter and 5.02mm thickness. As a result, it allows Grand Seiko to produce smaller watches while still providing a 72-hour power reserve.
On top of that, the power reserve indicator is located on the back of the caliber, keeping the dial very clean. The upper half of the dial features the logo and brand name, while the lower part hints at the U.F.A. Spring Drive caliber. Lastly, there is a date window at 3 o’clock.
What also stands out is that the dial is beautifully proportioned to the 37mm case. I especially love the large, angular, and meticulously finished hour markers. The Evolution 9 handset finishes the look, which also features a wonderful mix of brushed parts and Zaratsu-polished surfaces.
The combination of the case, hands, and markers offers a nice, bright visual contrast against that wonderful purple backdrop. Lastly, the comfortable bracelet has a new clasp and a toolless micro-adjustment system, which was introduced on the previous U.F.A. models. It makes sizing the watch easy, allowing precise adjustments in 2mm increments. Thanks to this, the watch fits my wrist perfectly and is a joy to wear.
Pricing and final thoughts on the new Grand Seiko SLGB005
By now, you will understand that I adore this new Grand Seiko SLGB005. It will be produced in a limited run of 1,300 pieces and will cost €12,000. While I have seen many great releases this year that have impressed me for different reasons, this new Grand Seiko won me over with its dial execution and incredible daily comfort. Those two factors are pivotal in making a watch a perfect daily wearer for me.
During my time with the watch, that feeling got stronger and stronger by the minute. It wasn’t love at first sight with the new Grand Seiko SLGB005, but once I put the watch on my wrist, it mesmerized me. It has moved this new SLGB005 to the top of my list of Grand Seiko favorites, along with the SBGA413 “Shunbun” and the SBGE285 “Mist Flake.”
A fun detail is that all three are Spring Drive models. I must admit that this new Grand Seiko SLGB005 has stolen my heart and is my favorite out of the three. Before this review, I never thought this watch would have me swooning over it. After wearing it for a couple of days, though, I found this new purple-dial Grand Seiko to be one of this year’s nicest surprises.
