Hands-On With The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV In Platinum And Rose Gold

Last week, Jorg explained how the Alpine Eagle has carved out its spot in an overcrowded category. The brand’s persistence and creativity in drastically changing things made the collection a success story. Today, it’s my turn to look at Chopard’s new Quattro Mark IV models from its elegant L.U.C collection. The Quattro is famous for its impressive power reserve, resulting from its four-barrel infrastructure. Of course, those four barrels are still there. However, the power reserve indicator moved to the back of the watch.

Sure, a 216-hour, or 9-day power reserve is impressive, and I get that it’s something you’d like to show off. But a power reserve indicator on the dial isn’t always the most attractive feature (just ask our Managing Editor, Nacho). In the Quattro’s case, it was typically placed at twelve o’clock and counted from zero to eight or nine, depending on the version. Instead of on the front, the new Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV now features an indicator on the back. That must’ve sparked a few heated discussions at the family business. However, I feel it’s a courageous and significant decision. Let’s find out why.

The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV

In essence, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is a dress watch. You can choose between an 18K rose gold or platinum version. The case is 39mm wide, 10.4mm thick, and the welded lugs span 46.5mm across. It has a so-called bassine shape, meaning it’s wider at the bezel than at the case back. Together with the heavily sloped lugs, this increases the wearability. The top of the lugs and the stepped bezel have a polished finish, while the side of the case features vertical-brushing.

The brass dial has a prominent frosted texture and a snailing pattern on the minute track. The slightly lower sub-dial at six o’clock contains both the running seconds and a pointer date complication. In addition to its snailing center, it features a brushed outer section separated by elegant chamfers. The beveled dauphine fusée hour and minute hands are polished, just like the beveled herringbone applied hour markers. At twelve o’clock, there’s the modest L.U. Chopard logo and the chronometer designation. The rose gold version has a dark blue tint on the dial, while the platinum version has an ice blue dial. Both the hands and the markers match the color of the case.

Two times two barrels

The tapered and fluted crown is 6mm wide, which gives you enough to grip when winding those four barrels. There are two sets of stacked barrels inside the in-house developed, produced, assembled, decorated, and certified Calibre 98.09-L. Together, they hold an impressive power reserve of no less than 216 hours, roughly nine days. The hand-wound movement runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 38 jewels, and is COSC-certified.

Apart from its technical capabilities, the movement is also lovely to look at. The satin-brushed bridges feature Geneva waves, polished chamfers, and circular graining. All the text on them is gilded, just like the Geneva seal. Right at the top is the power reserve indicator, which always comes in handy on a watch with a hand-wound movement.

A previous L.U.C Quattro. Image: Dorotheum.com

A good excuse

I get that Chopard initially wanted to show off its impressive power reserve on the dial side. However, a power reserve indicator isn’t always the most beautiful thing on a dial. It’s often in a weird spot, causes an asymmetrical layout, or adds clutter. That final point causes some disturbance to a dress watch. On the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV, Chopard moved the power reserve indicator to the back of the watch. That might hide its technical feat from the general public, but it also substantially cleans up the dial. Besides, checking the power reserve now becomes a perfect excuse to take another look at that beautifully finished movement.

A dress watch like the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is like a wolf in sheep’s clothing. On the outside, it looks very distinguished with its curvy case, the meticulously finished dial, and the leather strap you choose to wear it with. However, on the inside, it’s an absolute beast with its four barrels that provide a 9-day power reserve.

I’d compare it to the stickers full of features you see on TVs on display in the store. Of course, you want your TV to have all those features, like a sharp image, great sound, and a user-friendly interface. However, when you put the TV in your living room, you take those stickers off immediately. They’re there when you need them, but they shouldn’t obstruct your view while watching TV. The same counts for the Quattro Mark IV’s power reserve indicator: it’s there only when you need it.

On the wrist and in the hand

Because of its relatively short and sloped lugs, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV’s 39mm case fits quite well on my 17cm wrist. It could even be a little bit smaller, but this is a nice universal size that fits a wide variety of wrists. The dial’s texture, combined with the applied markers and the elaborated sub-dial, delicately reflects the light. If I could choose, I’d go for the platinum version with the ice blue dial. I’m not a fan of rose gold in general, and the platinum case is such an under-the-radar feature.

As you can expect, I also love that the power reserve indicator moved to the back of the watch. The only thing I don’t get is its orientation. When I look at the power reserve indicator on the back of my Breguet Classique, reference 5907, the crown is still on the same side. This makes it very convenient when you’re winding the watch, because that’s the way you’re used to winding any watch. However, to read the power reserve indicator correctly on the Chopard, you have to flip the crown to the other side. I know, it’s a minor thing, but still, small things matter in the world of haute horlogerie.

Final words

Besides that, the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is an impeccable dress watch with an impressive movement inside. The watches come on either a brown alligator or a gray calfskin leather strap. Those straps include a proprietary quick switch mechanism both on the lug side and for the pin buckle, which is very convenient if you own more of Chopard’s straps.

The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV costs €41,300 in ethically sourced 18K rose gold, and €51,400 in platinum. Let me know in the comments below what you think of the new Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV. Which one is your favorite?

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