Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic — Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967
Longines has a long history when it comes to high-frequency movements. Way back in 1910, the company received the first patent for a pocket chronograph featuring such a high-beat movement and capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1959, Longines presented its first wristwatch with a high-frequency movement that only deviated about 1/10th of a second per day. But it wasn’t until 1967 that the brand introduced the Ultra-Chron ref. 7827, the first self-winding high-frequency wristwatch produced in high volumes. Now, Longines introduces a re-edition of that watch with the Ultra-Chron Classic. It comes in 37mm and 40mm versions and, of course, houses a high-frequency automatic movement.
A Longines Ultra-Chron from 1969 — Image: Longines
In 2022, Longines released a re-edition of its Ultra-Chron Diver from 1968. This was received with a lot of excitement, and at the beginning of this year, the brand introduced a carbon version of that watch. It was lighter than the stainless steel model, but it still had a substantial 43mm cushion case. Luckily for fans of high-frequency Longines watches, the new Ultra-Chron Classic offers the same movement in a smaller, more wearable package. Let’s take a look.
The Longines Ultra-Chron Classic
Earlier this year, Longines in Amsterdam invited us to come and check out the upcoming releases. That’s where we first saw watches like the white-dial Legend Diver and the expansion of the Conquest Heritage collection. However, the most exciting release for me was this new Ultra-Chron Classic. That’s because of the combination of its attractive vintage design and the modern high-frequency technology inside.
The original Longines Ultra-Chron from 1967 had a 35mm case size, but the re-edition comes in two sizes. There’s a smaller 37mm version with a 44.6mm lug-to-lug, and there’s a larger 40mm version with a 47.2mm lug-to-lug. Both versions have a 10.95mm profile, including the box-shaped sapphire crystal.
You can say that the designers went for a very faithful recreation of the 1967 original. The new versions still have a straightforward round case and tapering flat lugs. The bezel features radial brushing, matching the silver sunburst surface of the dial, while the lugs have a vertically brushed finish. The case sides are polished.
Longines offers the choice of a black alligator leather strap or a newly designed five-row bracelet. The latter resembles the classic brushed and polished Jubilee-style finishing but has a channel running down the centermost links. Its clasp also offers toolless micro-adjustment for comfort anytime, anywhere.
A classic crosshair dial
As mentioned, the silver dial in the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic features a subtle sunburst finish, and it’s also slightly domed. There’s an applied index at every hour, the applied winged hourglass logo below 12 o’clock, and a well-executed trapezoidal frame for the date window at 3 o’clock. The straight and slightly beveled hour and minute hands each feature a black line, which matches the paint on the hour markers. A classic crosshair, as found on the original 1967 Ultra-Chron, brings everything on the dial together. Finally, the applied Ultra-Chron logo stands proudly above 6 o’clock and refers to the high-frequency movement inside.
A high-beat movement inside
The Longines L836.6 automatic caliber runs at a high 5Hz frequency, or 36,000 vibrations per hour. It’s also certified as an “ultra chronometer” by Timelab. This Geneva-based chronometric observatory tests the fully cased movement for 15 days at three temperatures (8°C, 23°C, and 38°C). According to the standard used by Timelab (ISO 3159:2009), the mean daily rate is still +6/-4 seconds per day. Due to its higher frequency, this 25-jewel movement recovers more quickly from shocks, changes in position, or acceleration than its lower-beat counterparts. In addition, it features an antimagnetic silicon balance spring and holds a 52-hour power reserve.
This movement lies hidden behind an engraved case back, and you can operate it with the push-pull crown at 3 o’clock. The new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic also has a water resistance rating of 50 meters.
Choose your size
Usually, when brands introduce a new watch, it comes in only one size. The great thing about this release is that you can choose between two sizes, depending on which one looks best on your wrist. For my 17cm wrist, I would go for the 37mm Ultra-Chron Classic. But the good thing is that, apart from their sizes, both versions look identical. The 40mm model’s dial doesn’t look oddly empty, and the dial of the 37mm variant doesn’t feel cramped or overcrowded. Both sizes are very well proportioned.
The new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic almost feels like a new-old-stock Ultra-Chron from 1967. However, with this re-edition, you don’t have to be afraid of scratching the crystal, and you can easily take it into the pool with you. I also quite like the newly designed five-row bracelet. The line through the middle links distinguishes it from the more common Jubilee-style bracelet, and the micro-adjustment system in the clasp is a convenient modern-day touch.
Available now
As you can probably tell by now, I think this is a great release from Longines. Sure, you could get the vintage version, but if that is not your thing and you prefer to have the same look with updated technology, this is your chance. With the Ultra-Chron Classic’s two available sizes, there should be one that suits your wrist, and you can go for a sporty look with the bracelet or a more formal one with the black leather strap. In any case, the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic will look great on you.
The new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic costs €3,800 on the alligator strap and €3,900 on the stainless steel bracelet. There is no price difference between the two sizes. Let me know in the comments below what you think of the new Longines Ultra-Chron Classic.
