Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow
Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology department enables the watch itself to make a big splash. The latest Hermès H08 Chronographe comes with “Naples yellow” details. Featuring the same 41mm by 45mm multilayered carbon fiber case as the orange version from 2023, this watch’s yellow accents add a new dimension to the sporty aesthetic. Let’s take a look at this zesty H08.
Last month, we looked at the lighter urban H08 with sophisticated satin brushing on the dial indications. The chronograph takes things in a more utilitarian direction with tactile touches. We have a broad, grainy texture within the sub-dials and the recessed chapter ring with yellow markers. This pattern reminds me of tactical equipment, such as a pistol grip. The military feel of the dial sectors offsets the curvaceous numerals, reflecting the cushion case. However, I’d love to see Hermès lean into the style further, perhaps with a stencil typeface. The extended yellow chronograph hand differs from the time-and-date H08’s balanced hand to ensure readability against the outer chrono scale. That scale also includes yellow minute dashes for the first 15 minutes. Thankfully, the central yellow hand still features the counterbalance mimicking the cushion case’s silhouette.
Hermès H08 Chronographe in Naples yellow
Jaune de Naples (French for “Naples yellow”) accents also appear on the subsidiary seconds hand at 3 o’clock and the chronograph’s minute hand at 9 o’clock. But for the main hour and minute indications, Hermès coats the hands in black gold and applies Super-LumiNova. The carbon fiber composite case coated with graphene powder continues the field-gear style. An impressive total of 176 thin carbon fiber sheets are layered and heavily compressed to form a strong yet lightweight structure. Carving out the cushion case shape then reveals a wood-grain effect. Contrasting this pattern is a sunburst-brushed titanium bezel with mirror-polished chamfers. A black PVD-coated titanium crown tops it off and houses the chronograph actuator with a yellow band. Hermès employs a dizzying variation of materials to reach its desired result. But the accomplished French brand excels in delivering a harmonious and high-quality design.
A monopusher chronograph, as the name suggests, encompasses all the chronograph functions into a single pusher. The start, stop, and reset activations occur in that order by pressing the crown. The reason for opting for a monopusher is to maintain the H08’s case shape and lines without additional protrusions. However, the case dimensions are slightly larger, with a 41mm diameter and 45mm lug-to-lug instead of the time-and-date H08’s 39mm by 42mm dimensions. The 21mm lug spacing remains the same, though, allowing rubber straps across the H08 range to be mixed and matched. That said, the striking yellow rubber strap with a black DLC-coated titanium folding clasp perfectly accentuates the dial details. Turning the watch over reveals a titanium and sapphire case back, showcasing the Hermès Manufacture caliber H1837.
Further details and pricing
The base time-and-date caliber incorporates a chronograph module from movement specialist Dubois Dépraz. The additional chronograph module drops the power reserve from the base model’s 50 hours to 46 hours. However, despite the crown pusher, the H08 Chronographe still achieves a 100m water resistance rating. It’s only the date window at 4:30 that irks me somewhat. Curiously, I don’t mind the aperture on the time-and-date H08, but the date window slightly interrupts the balance of the twin registers on the H08 Chronographe. Overall, though, I like this watch and feel it showcases a fascinating array of materials in a coherent design.
This H08 Chronographe is available from Hermès boutiques and online (in some countries) for €12,000 / US$12,800 / £10,200. What do you think of this release? Share your opinions in the comments section below.
