Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches
I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to the Only Watch 2021 edition with its 38.3mm case. Add the new movement and a black dial instead of a brown one, and it would break the internet.”
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075
Well, the brand did. Meet the two new Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2075 models. One comes with a black anodized aluminum dial and the other with a pure (Ag925) silver dial. Both Type XX Chronographe watches stay true to the original 38.3mm size mentioned above. These watches are part of Breguet’s 250th-anniversary celebration, following the Tradition 7035 and Souscription 2025. I have not seen these new Type XXs in the flesh yet, but I am enthusiastic about all the new Breguet 250th-anniversary watches. I can’t wait to take them for a spin, as I feel the new Breguet CEO is doing a tremendous job getting the right watches and design language back into the collection.
Breguet Type XX nr. 1780 from 1955 — Image: Breguet
Type XX nr. 1780
According to Breguet, these models are based on a Type XX from 1955, with serial number 1780. I’ve shown you this watch before, here.
The Breguet Type XX above from 1955 was one of the three gold watches produced back then, and you can admire it in the Breguet Museum in Paris. Using the Type XX nr. 1780 as an example, Breguet designed the new Type XX Chronographe 2075, available with two dial configurations. In addition to the watch’s appropriate dimensions, we are pleased that it does not include a date window. Finally!
In my hands-on review, I wrote that the date window didn’t bother me much during my time with it. And I still stand by that. However, the Type XX simply looks much better without one, and here’s the proof!
Two dials
We find a reference to the material used on the black-dial version. It’s an aluminum alloy, so there’s this “Al” reference between the 7 and 8 numerals. The silver-dial version shows “Ag925” at the same position as the black-dial version. These indications don’t bother me that much, but I also don’t quite understand why they were necessary. The dials have the Breguet wordmark applied in gold, and all the hands on the black-dial variation are gold as well. The silver-dial version uses gold hour and minute hands, and the smaller hands and chronograph seconds hand are blued steel. This model also has gold applied numerals and indexes, whereas the black-dial Type XX uses painted indexes and numerals.
Breguet’s black-dial Type XX Chronographe 2075 closely resembles the original gold Type XX and the watch as a whole. According to Breguet’s archives, the original civilian model in gold was initially delivered with a satin-finish silver dial, which was later replaced by a black one. Consequently, Breguet also created a reinterpretation of that gold watch with a silver dial, limited to only 250 pieces. I’m more drawn to the new Type XX with the black anodized aluminum dial, but some members of my team here prefer the more classic-looking silver-dial variation.
Two Breguet calibers
In addition to the dial materials and colors, there’s another difference. As you can see in the pictures, the silver-dial Type XX has a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, while the black-dial Type XX features a 15-minute counter. The movements are based on the self-winding caliber 728 introduced in 2023, but they are now hand-wound. Caliber 7279 powers the black-dial Type XX with a 15-minute counter, while the silver-dial version with a 30-minute counter houses caliber 7278.
Both movements are, of course, equipped with a flyback function. It was considered a time-saver for pilots using the chronograph not to have to stop, reset, and restart it. One click of the reset button is enough to reset and restart the chronograph function. Furthermore, both Breguet movements have a power reserve of 60 hours and tick at a 5Hz (36,000vph) frequency.
Breguet XIX aircraft
Breguet’s new hand-wound movement leaves enough space for a beautiful engraving on the mainplate, and that’s precisely what the brand applied. The movements are gilded in the Breguet gold introduced earlier this year and engraved with the Breguet XIX (or 19) aircraft and a map displaying the exact route it took in 1930. It flew from Paris to New York and was the first plane ever to do so. This plane has been on display since 1937 at the Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace in Le Bourget, Paris. The movement is a joy to look at via the sapphire crystal on the back side.
Availability and pricing
The case has a 38.3mm diameter, as written above, as well as a 13.2mm thickness. Everything is crafted in 18K Breguet gold, meaning it has a slight rose hue to it. The gold weighs 53 grams for the Type XX Chronograph 2075. The silver-dial edition features an individual number on the case back, up to 250/250.
The retail price of the black-dial Type XX ref. 2075BH/99/398 is CHF 36,500, including taxes. The limited silver-dial Type XX ref. 2075BH/G9/398 has a retail price of CHF 38,000, including taxes. Breguet delivers each watch in a beautiful red leather case featuring the 250th-anniversary logo.
Some afterthoughts on the Breguet Type XX 2075
It seems to me that Breguet is having a good run in 2025. This third introduction for the 250th anniversary is something a lot of enthusiasts have been asking for. According to Gregory Kissling, Breguet’s CEO, this collection will continue to evolve in terms of diameters, finishes, and materials. Out of the three new releases in 18K Breguet gold, it’s not easy making a choice, which is a good thing! I can’t wait to try these Type XX models on, and I slightly prefer the aluminum-dial version.
As you know, though, that can change when seeing watches in real life. Gregory Kissling and his team have successfully made Breguet a common topic of discussion among enthusiasts again, and I think that these Type XX Chronographe 2075 models are worth discussing for sure!
