Let me present you with a dilemma. What dial type do you prefer — lush lacquer, enticing enamel, or pristine porcelain? It’s a difficult choice, right? Before reaching your verdict, please have a look at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition. This watch highlights artisanal qualities, resulting in a dial that captivates with a soft beauty that’s hard to resist. Even better, the watch does so at a price point that puts meticulous craftsmanship within reach of a large audience.

Since Seiko introduced the Presage collection in 2016, the goal has always been to offer different types of traditional fine craftsmanship to a larger audience than ever. Over time, the philosophy materialized in a wide range of models. The current Presage Craftsmanship Series watches offer different types of dials, from luscious, hand-painted urushi (lacquer) ones that show the depth of multiple layers to the delicate look of traditional shippō enamel. While some models have also featured Arita porcelain dials, an unglazed one is new to the series. The SPB497 is a limited edition, but since Seiko will make 1,200 watches and the European retail price is €1,950, it is not strictly for the happy few.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 head on

Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition

The watches bearing the Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship moniker reflect traditional Japanese art’s colors, materials, and textures and express them in the most understated and refined way. The unglazed Arita porcelain dial of the SPB497 is a first in the Presage collection. Unglazed porcelain is a relatively modern technique within Arita porcelain’s four-century-old tradition. As you probably expected, unlike the typical glazed finish that gives Arita porcelain its smooth, glossy appearance, the unglazed material reveals a soft matte texture. It’s warmer than glazed porcelain and shows a natural white tone. If you think glossy porcelain is understated, look at this unglazed dial again. In this form, Arita porcelain has an even gentler and more refined presence. The matte surface also effectively accentuates the delicate ridges that define Arita craftsmanship, allowing intricate, three-dimensional patterns to emerge with striking clarity and depth.

Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 up close

In the capable hands of artisans

Thanks to renowned Arita porcelain master Hiroyuki Hashiguchi, the dials are crafted by Toshiaki Kawaguchi and his team at a centuries-old manufacturing firm in Arita, Japan. That firm has been in business since 1830, so the people there know what they are doing. Still, creating watch dials was not always part of the operation. Kawaguchi refined his skills through years of mentorship under Hashiguchi, mastering the complexity of Japanese porcelain’s traditional yet evolving art. It takes meticulousness and, thus, time to create a porcelain watch dial, as each one results from a multi-stage production process that demands control, expertise, and patience. A new type, more than four times harder than traditional porcelain, was developed to use Arita porcelain as a watch dial. It requires a highly accurate casting mold that allows artisans to achieve the intricate patterns essential to creating the design you see in the pictures.

Incorporating Arita porcelain dials reflects Seiko’s dedication to preserving horological and artisanal heritage. To be more specific, it is following the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goal 9: “Build resilient infrastructure, promote inclusive and sustainable industrialization, and foster innovation.”

Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497

Overview of the Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition

The new SPB497 has a soft white matte porcelain dial with a textured diamond pattern decorating the area surrounding the indexes. Traditionally seen as a symbol of prosperity and good health, this motif is an Arita specialty. The gold-colored indexes and hands are a tad conservative, but they contrast elegantly with the dial, enhancing the design’s depth. Seiko encased the delicate dial in a 40.6 × 12.5mm stainless steel case with super-hard coating to safeguard the delicate dial from harm. That case is also water resistant to 100 meters.

Movement inside the Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497

Inside it beats Seiko’s caliber 6R51. This 3Hz automatic movement has a power reserve of 72 hours (three days). Buyers will receive the Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition with a black leather strap and a single-deployant push-button clasp. This leather is sourced from Leather Working Group (LWG)-certified tanneries. Since 2005, LWG, a non-profit organization dedicated to sustainable leather production, has designed standards to certify all parties in the supply chain.

Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 head on

The Seiko Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition SPB497 will be available worldwide starting in July.

Now that you know about the new watch, it’s time to tell me your favorite dial material in the comments.

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Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Presage Classic Series Craftsmanship Unglazed Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition
Reference
SPB497
Dial
Soft white unglazed Arita porcelain with diamond-pattern sector, gold-tone applied indexes, black printing
Case Material
Stainless steel with super-hard coating
Case Dimensions
40.6mm (diameter) × 12.5mm (thickness)
Crystal
Dual-curved sapphire with underside antireflective coating
Case Back
Stainless steel with transparent display, screw-in
Movement
Seiko 6R51: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 21,600vph (3Hz) frequency, 72-hour power reserve, 24 jewels
Water Resistance
10 bar (100 meters)
Strap
Black leather with stainless steel folding push-button clasp, leather sourced from LWG-certified tanneries
Functions
Time only (hours, minutes, seconds)
Price
€1,950
Special Note(s)
Limited edition of 1,200 watches worldwide