The One-Off White Gold Universal Genève SAS Polerouter Heads To Auction
While there are no official announcements on new releases from the reborn Universal Genève, we do have news. To refresh your memory, Breitling purchased the brand in December 2023 from Stelux Holdings. It has been made clear that new models, along with authorized retailers, wouldn’t emerge until 2026. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polerouter references emerged in 2024, celebrating the 70th anniversary of the SAS transpolar flights from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
It’s been quiet since the SAS Polerouter trio debuted in November 2024. Now, though, Universal Genève is making good on its intent to auction one piece off at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXI on May 10–11, 2025. The positive is that the proceeds will benefit a charity, raising money for a chainmaking class at CFP Arts Geneva, led by Laurent Jolliet—one of the last remaining chaînistes in Switzerland—helping preserve traditional watchmaking craftsmanship.
The trio of SAS Polerouter watches
When the three Polerouters debuted in Copenhagen, Denmark, it was easy to mistake the pieces as vintage ’50s models. However, Universal Genève created new cases faithful to the originals. The brand also employed métiers d’art for the dials of each watch, such as the guilloché rehaut. The trio of 35mm by 45.4mm watches debuted in 18K red gold, stainless steel, and 18K white gold. Finally, each uses a completely refurbished vintage caliber 1-69 Microtor movement with a frequency of 18,000vph and 57 hours of power reserve.
The white gold model, however, brings something different. While the steel and 18K red gold pieces are paired with leather straps, the white gold model has a matching mesh bracelet. Laurent Jolliet, one of the few remaining Swiss chain-makers, created this fine accessory by hand.
A deeper look at Laurent Jolliet’s bracelet
Buying a mesh bracelet is a simple and inexpensive venture. However, consider a handmade article, and the complexity increases exponentially. Jolliet learned his craft from Gay-Frères and now has his workshop in Geneva. Creating the SAS Polerouter mesh bracelet is a multifaceted procedure. It requires 18K white gold wire drawing, wrapping around a mandrel, and several filing and polishing processes.
Keep in mind, these processes must be done repeatedly for each strand. The result is a finely crafted, durable bracelet. Jolliet often spends one to two months on each bracelet! Now, a lucky bidder has the opportunity to own the bracelet and watch.
The white gold model heads to auction in Geneva
At the Copenhagen event and in press materials, Universal Genève made it clear that the stainless and red gold models would eventually become part of the brand’s archives. However, the white gold model has always been destined for auction. During the May 10–11 Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, the one-off SAS Polerouter will go under the hammer. The watch is listed under lot 75 out of 194 total lots and has an estimate of CHF 25,000–50,000. All proceeds will go to CFP Arts in Geneva, an educational school that teaches applied arts, such as chain-making.
Thoughts on the SAS Polerouter and sale
The trio of SAS Polerouter watches is important for multiple reasons. The level of workmanship in each gives us a hint of what Universal Genève might bring when production models appear in 2026. More monumental, however, is that the white gold SAS Polerouter will be the lone personally owned example of the brand’s return. That makes it incredibly special, and the estimate will likely be shattered.
Regarding the potential buyers for the SAS Polerouter, one can only speculate. Vintage Universal Genève collectors will likely take an interest. Also, there’s a link to a famous exploit concerning air travel, which could spark bidding. Finally, there’s the charity aspect that could garner support. No matter who wins the watch and at what price, it will be a special part of a collection. We can only hope that we see the watch in the future.
