Universal Genève Is Back! Introducing Four Collections, With The Famous Polerouter Leading The Way
Finally, after two years of teasing, Universal Genève is back. Yes, the brand is back in a tangible way with four collections and a soon-to-open flagship store in the heart of Geneva, its city of origin. From the 1940s through the 1960s, Universal Genève stood among the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. The brand earned the name “Le Couturier de la Montre” by setting itself apart through a distinctive creative vision that united technical mastery with aesthetic sensibility. With Georges Kern at the helm, UG aims to regain the influence it once had. And it’s a series of Polerouter watches leading the way, with six versions of the Compax in close support.
“Le Couturier de la Montre 2.0” presents four distinct collections — reimagined icons in the Prêt-à-Porter Collection, limited-edition pieces in the Capsule Collection, unique pieces made in collaboration with artisans under the Couture Creations label, and reinterpreted creations from the archives, produced for a limited time in the Signature Timepieces Collection. Are you ready for the much-awaited return of the historic “Watch Couturier?”
Universal Genève HQ at Rue du Rhône in Geneva, ca. 1965
Universal Genève is back!
Apart from being a “Watch Couturier,” UG was once one of the most respected names in high-end Swiss watchmaking. As seasoned collectors know, from the 1940s through the 1960s, it had a strong reputation for chronographs, such as the Compax — including the famed “Nina Rindt” model — and the Tri-Compax. Movements like the robust caliber 281 in the Compax, Uni-Compax, and later Tri-Compax models, the refined caliber 285, and the sophisticated caliber 481 with full calendar and moonphase functions, combined precision, complexity, and reliability. Apart from that, Universal Genève was also a pioneer of micro-rotor movements. The Microtor caliber 215, introduced in 1958, was one of the thinnest automatic movements of its era. UG then followed it up in the 1960s with the even slimmer caliber 1-66.
1960s Polerouter Date ref. 869115/01 T.P.
Still, the brand that also brought you the famous Genta-designed Polerouter and the Cabriolet, one of the earliest reversible wristwatches (and initially called the Ideo), was often described as a “forgotten innovator.”
Have you ever heard someone referring to UG as the “poor man’s Patek Philippe”? This happened because the brand produced almost everything in-house, with impressive quality, and set itself apart with ingenious technical solutions and a very high level of execution and finishing. At an easier-to-reach price point, that is. The brand got the nickname because its products were often sold in the same stores as Patek, making it easy to compare the two brands and conclude that UG was doing a most remarkable job.
The 2025 one-of-a-kind Polerouter SAS Tribute ref. JU6910101C1J1
Back on a high level
With that in mind, returning to the world of watches at a price point starting around €15k, as Georges Kern stated in several interviews, makes sense. Not that it won’t be challenging to capture and convince an audience, but UG’s historical reputation might help. But it only works when the product walks the walk the marketing department is talking about. Some collectors noted that not all of UG’s movements were on the same qualitative level as the big Haute Horlogerie brands that remain prominent in today’s market. Despite that, they were seen as reliable and innovative during the brand’s golden years.
Universal Genève was founded on January 18th, 1894, in the Swiss Jura watchmaking town of Le Locle by Numa-Émile Descombes and Ulysse Georges Perret. Originally named Universal Watch, the company started making movements for pocket watches, and when it moved its headquarters to Rue du Rhône in Geneva in 1919, it soon changed its name to Universal Genève. From its HQ, UG built a strong reputation by producing some of the 20th century’s most celebrated timepieces.
Soon, the brand will return to its historic home in Geneva’s most luxurious shopping street. This historically accurate move signals that Universal Genève wants to be seen as a top-end luxury watchmaker.
“Tailored to your elegance” advertisement from 1944
UG is for her and him
After decades of relative dormancy, UG soon returns to its historic home on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône. The brand’s revival, which comes into full effect this year, is founded on its rich heritage and reimagining its icons for both men and women. The idea is to regain the name “Le Couturier de la Montre.” Pairing technical ingenuity with refined design and cultural sensitivity, the new watches should be seen as both a mechanical accomplishment and a creative expression. By blending in-house movements, contemporary aesthetics, and thoughtful reinterpretations of its heritage, UG wants a seat at the table of Haute Horlogerie.
It historically knows how to dress for a high-level meeting. French couturier Jeanne Lanvin once remarked that “very few watches can accompany a dress from Paris, but Universal does beautiful ones.” Now you know how the brand earned its reputation as Watch Couturier.
In the 1960s, UG’s watches appeared on the wrists of figures such as Bruce Lee and Alain Delon. And the Compax, for instance, became known as “Nina,” after Finnish model Nina Rindt, who wore it trackside while watching her husband, Jochen Rindt, win Grands Prix. A Tri-Compax from the same era later acquired the nickname “Clapton,” in reference to guitarist Eric Clapton. UG was and will be, for her and him.
French taste with Genevan precision
This year, true to the spirit of Le Couturier de la Montre, Universal Genève moves forward with a vision that unites functional beauty, cultural relevance, and the philosophy of ennoblissement, the elevation of objects through artistry, ornamentation, and craftsmanship. It’s not a new concept. A 1946 advertisement read: “Unit au goût français la précision genevoise” (uniting French taste with Genevan precision). UG wants to be more than a timekeeper, and to succeed in today’s watch world, it must. Indeed, it must be an emblem of sophistication and style. To realize the principle of functional beauty, the execution should be flawless. This means that the watches UG produces must be reliable, precise, aesthetically pleasing, and at the highest levels of watchmaking, both technically and in terms of finishing.
Four expressions
UG blends a couture-inspired design sensibility with exceptional savoir-faire and Genevan horological expertise. The brand wants to speak to those who value originality, character, and enduring design. You can expect reinterpretations of iconic models for modern tastes. The new catalog is structured around four complementary expressions. First, there’s the Prêt-à-Porter Collection, featuring permanent interpretations of the maison’s core icons. The Capsule Collection, with limited seasonal editions of emblematic timepieces, explores creative variations in materials, colors, and decorative techniques. The unique pieces in the Couture Creations collection are made in close collaboration with exceptional artisans. These are the ultimate expression of watchmaking as métier d’art. Finally, the Signature Timepieces will be produced for a limited period. These reinterpretations of archival icons preserve the essence of the originals while introducing subtle contemporary refinements. The Signature Timepieces position themselves between the Prêt-à-Porter and the creative expressions in the Capsule Collection.
This year, UG will launch creations in collaboration with leading specialists, including Laurent Jolliet, one of the last remaining chaînistes in Switzerland, who handmade the mesh bracelet for last year’s one-off white gold SAS Polerouter that went under the hammer at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XXI. Other partners are Nelly Rodi, a renowned luxury-trend forecaster, and Isabella Villa, an accomplished miniature painter. Together, these specialists contribute to selected Capsule and Couture creations, further enriching the brand’s creative universe. You can expect the first deliveries in autumn.
The many faces of the Polerouter
The 1954 Polerouter burst onto the scene with an innovative design. Initially outfitted with a bumper automatic movement, it soon received the Microtor caliber 215, launched in 1958. Featuring an integrated micro-rotor and a 4.1mm profile, it was the world’s thinnest automatic movement at the time.
Microtor caliber UG-110
The new Polerouter sits in both the Prêt-à-Porter and Capsule Collections. And inside all the new watches beats the newly developed Microtor caliber UG-110, featuring a unidirectional ¾-rotor. The movement has a 3.8mm thickness, 4Hz frequency, 72-hour power reserve, and high-level finishing.
There are five Polerouter models in the Prêt-à-Porter collection. The three 39 × 47.6 × 9.5mm references UGPO001 (steel case, black dial, black alligator strap), UGPO002 (steel, blue dial, four-brick bracelet with butterfly clasp), and UGPO003 (rose gold, brown dial, brown alligator strap). And there are two 37 × 46.2 × 9.35mm models. These are the references UGPO007 (steel, black dial, black alligator strap) and UGPO009 (rose gold, 66 diamonds on the bezel, brown dial, brown alligator leather strap). The 39mm Polerouters have a date complication, while the 37mm versions do without.
37mm Polerouter Hardstone references from the Capsule Collection
Six 37mm Capsule Collection Polerouters
The Capsule Collection holds three 37mm Polerouter Hardstone references and three Camaïeu versions. The Hardstone reference UGPO005 is the rose gold version with a lapis lazuli marquetry dial with a sunray inner bezel on a dark blue alligator leather strap. The other rose gold reference is the UGPO006, featuring a tiger’s eye dial and a rose gold four-brick bracelet with a butterfly clasp. The steel reference UGPO00 features a bull’s eye dial and a black alligator strap.
37mm Polerouter Camaïeu watches
The 37mm Polerouter Camaïeu watches, each with 66 diamonds on the bezel, play with the different shades of one color. The rose gold reference UGPO010 has a toffee-colored dial, the steel reference UGPO011 has fresh aqua-mint shades, and the rose gold reference UGPO012 has a berry-red dial with a sunray satin finish and a sunray inner bezel. There’s no pricing info for all the Polerouter watches yet.
Compax ref. UGCO001
The Compax returns in six versions
“The Nina” is back — in six versions, no less! These new Compax models reinterpret the sporty chronograph with contemporary finishes while remaining faithful to its mid-century character. The six watches feature contrasting sub-dials, distinctive hands, tachymeter bezels, and twisted lugs. On the dials, you will find applied hour index counters and sunray finishes. The 39.5 × 47.8mm × 12.45mm cases combine polished and satin-brushed surfaces. They come in steel and rose gold and have a 100m water resistance rating.
Caliber UG-200
Inside the new chronographs beats a new UG-200 movement featuring an integrated, unidirectional ¾-rotor, a column wheel, a vertical clutch, a traversing balance bridge, and a slim 6.63mm profile. The UG-200 also beats at 4 Hz and delivers a “weekend-proof” 72-hour power reserve.
The Compax Prêt-à-Porter line contains three core models, each equipped with a ceramic bezel insert engraved with a tachymeter scale. Two stainless steel versions revisit the iconic “panda” (UGCO001) and “reverse panda” (UGCO002) configurations, while the gold edition (UGCO004) features a midnight-blue dial and bezel contrasted with white sub-dials. The vintage-inspired steel bracelet, echoing 1960s designs by Gay Frères, offers micro-adjustments and can be interchanged with an historically correct Bund strap in brown or blue alligator leather.
The three most fashionable models in the Compax Capsule collection feature dials and bezel inserts in brushed indigo, sage green, and dry lavender. Each watch also has contrasting white sub-dials. The dials use translucent lacquer to mimic the texture of linen, while the leather straps are treated to resemble denim, combining a casual look with a touch of luxury through their finishing. The lavender model comes in yellow gold, the sage green in rose gold, and the brushed indigo in steel. Prices are to be announced.
Five Cabriolets are ready to roll
The reversible Cabriolet started life in 1933 as the Ideo. Its ingenious flipping case protected the dial and worked with this innovative mechanism. The case’s reverse side is a perfect spot for artistic expression, and when it’s transparent, it offers a view of the movement inside. The five new Cabriolet watches are powered by a new, shaped manual-wound movement. The 27 × 17.5 × 3mm UG-111, a caliber that beats at 3Hz, has a 72-hour power reserve and is shock-resistant, making it ready for contemporary daily wear.
Four Prêt-à-Porter Cabriolets debut, with the steel version featuring a blue dial (UGCA006) and a nine-row steel bracelet looking the most modern. The pink gold version with 44 diamonds totaling 0.9 carats and a red dial (UGCA004) is combined with a ruby-red alligator strap. The white-dial version is paired with a dark brown alligator strap, making this pink gold watch (UGCA001) the most traditional of the lot. The rose gold variant with a black dial (UGCA002) features a nine-row gold bracelet for a most luxurious look.
On the reverse, the Cabriolet reveals a transparent case back, but if you like, it becomes a spot of personal expression. You can have it engraved with initials in Cassandre’s Bifur typeface or adorned with a hand-painted miniature artwork.
15 Tamara de Lempicka paintings
Speaking of artwork, the fifth new Cabriolet is in the Capsule Collection. It’s a highly limited edition of just 15 rose gold watches with a velvet-teal hue and a painted case back. The 15 case backs show hand-painted miniatures inspired by one of Tamara de Lempicka’s (1894–1980) celebrated works. The unique reproductions of the Polish Art Deco artist come to life thanks to the renowned miniaturist Isabelle Villa.
There are three paintings to choose from — Portrait of Mrs. Bush, Tamara in Green Bugatti, and Docteur Boucard. Only five examples are dedicated to each artwork. If the painting of your liking is not there, don’t worry; further creations drawn from De Lempicka’s works are foreseen.
All five new Cabriolets have a 24.2 × 45 × 8mm “carrosserie” that’s water resistant to 10 bar (100 meters) and features a glare-proofed flat sapphire crystal on both sides.
Disco Mini ref. UGMD001
Get ready to Disco and dress up in Couture
There’s also a series of Disco Mini models inspired by Universal Genève’s multiband watches of the 1950s. The quartz-powered Disco Mini features an innovative clip system built into the case back. This allows easy switching between a bangle bracelet and a selection of vibrant straps from the Spring–Summer collection, available as add-ons.
Disco Mini ref. UGMD002
The Disco Mini’s mother-of-pearl dial features a three-dimensional finish that echoes the case’s shape. These 28 × 10.25mm cases are available in rose or white gold, and some references are set with 90 diamonds totaling 1.13 carats. A concealed crown further refines the design.
The Couture creations and Signature watches are high-end, jewel-like interpretations of existing models. The Cabriolet, Disco Mini, and Disco Maxi watches in the Couture Collection are prime examples of what UG means by “ennoblissement.” The art of elevating form through ornamentation and exceptional craftsmanship is obvious. Each timepiece combines gemstones and precious materials to create a wearable work of art.
Dioramic Couture Edition UGCC002
Two surprises to finish with, the Dioramic and the Disco Volante
Universal Genève is also relaunching the Dioramic, a watch first introduced in 1956 as the Monodatic, and the Disco Volante. These Signature Edition Timepieces are positioned between the Prêt-à-Porter models and the creative expressions in the Capsule Collection. The contemporary Dioramic retains its vintage signature while incorporating subtle modern refinements.
The rose gold or steel 37 × 43.6 × 9.15mm cases feature a lacquered dial with angled, trapeze-shaped indexes that create depth and shifting reflections. And the dial is framed by an oversized bezel with concentric fluting. Fully polished twisted lugs echo the original design, and so does the sapphire box crystal. The recessed date is integrated into the bezel. The open case back reveals the UG110 Microtor caliber, which also powers the new Polerouter watches. For those who want it wilder, there is the Dioramic Couture Edition (UGCC002) with 190 emeralds.
A micro-rotor-powered Flying Saucer
Finally, the Disco Volante — Italian for “flying saucer” — takes inspiration from the Uni-Compax chronographs of the late 1930s, and the Signature Editions proudly show off their stepped, lugless cases. Each features a polished inner bezel and an outer ring engraved with concentric decoration. And the pronounced sapphire box crystal looks like the cockpit of a spacecraft. The Disco Volante also has a proven two-counter chronograph display with a tachymeter scale and a transparent case back.
The 45 × 12.78mm Disco Volante Signature comes in two versions. First, there’s a steel model with a blue dial and tone-on-tone counters, paired with a matching blue strap. The second is a rose gold edition featuring a rose gold dial complemented by a black alligator strap. Inside the 100m-water-resistant case beats the caliber UG-200 that also powers the new “Nina.”
So, what do you think of the Le Couturier de la Montre’s reboot collection? Did the new Polerouters meet your expectations, or are you more impressed by the Compax chronographs? We can’t wait to go hands-on with both, plus the Dioramic and Disco Volante Signature Edition Timepieces. And while we’re at it, we will also give the Cabriolet a test spin. Stay tuned for more on the different Universal Genève novelties.
