Back in 2010, when Cartier introduced their Calibre de Cartier I would have never thought that it would be possible to create a diver’s watch based on this model. Even though the Calibre de Cartier was more masculine than most other Cartier timepieces – with the exception of the Santos 100 models perhaps – I still classified it as a dress watch. Now, December 2013 and just a few weeks before the SIHH exhibition will start in Geneva, Cartier prepares us for a diver’s version of the Calibre de Cartier. Let’s have a look at this early introduction.
For starters, Cartier made sure that this Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch met all requirements according to the ISO 6425 standards. This ISO norm has a set of rules that must be met in order to label a watch as a Diver’s Watch. According to these ISO standards that is. This ISO 6425 standard was revised in 2008 for the last time and a number of tests need to be performed in order to meet the requirements. To name a few: a reliability test under water, a condensation test, a pressure test on crown (and pushers), water-tightness and resistance at a water overpressure, resistance to thermal shock.
As you can read, very functional matters. It almost seems as reading requirements or a description of a typical functional watch but it really is applicable for this well-designed Calibre de Cartier watch. I did a review on the regular Calibre de Cartier watch in 2011 (you can read it here) and I quite loved it. To be honest, that also makes it easy to like this Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch. The dial is of course different, without losing its elegant appearance though and the smooth bezel has been replaced by a unidirectional turning bezel for diving watches. It turns by 120 clicks, so 2 clicks for every minute you want to set.
The most important thing for a professional diving watch is being legible and water resistant of course. With regards to legibility, the Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch should be easy to read below surface level due to the use of Super Luminova on the dial and hands.
As for the depth rate, this watch is tried & tested to withstand and perform in depths of 300 meters below surface level. It passed all intensive tests according the ISO 6425 norm and is therefore a true diver’s watch.
This model comes in stainless steel and in a pink gold version. To be honest, I wouldn’t dive with a gold watch but who am I to withhold you from doing so. Both versions come on a rubber diving strap with an ardillon buckle that matches the case material.
Just like the 2010 Calibre de Cartier watch, this Diver Watch also uses Cartier’s in-house manufactured caliber 1904 MC movement. Also identical are the dimensions of the case, only 42mm in diameter and 11mm thick. Who said diver’s watches need to be uncomfortable and clunky?
In any case, I am looking forward to see the Calibre de Cartier Diver Watch in the flesh at SIHH 2014 and will try to make some live pictures of this watch for a closer view. Keep you posted!
Ever since he was a young child, Robert-Jan was drawn to watches, even though it were digital Casio and quartz Swatch models at the time. In the mid-1990s, his interest increased when he started to read about mechanical watches in... read more