Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 2: Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Welcome to the second semifinal in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our bid to find the best dress watch of 2025. In today’s matchup, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P takes on the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. As we near the final, we see some of this year’s heavyweights going head-to-head. Both this Patek and Breguet outperformed their competition in the first round, garnering 63% and 56% of the votes, respectively. But what happens when an unstoppable force meets an immovable object? It looks like we’ll find out today. Be sure to vote for the watch you think should make it to the final!
Mike: Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
Well, it’s nice to see that the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P has made its way to the semifinals. The first round’s Daniel Roth was a nice watch, but it seems that simple classicism won the day. Will the Patek ascend to the final match? Let’s see. First, let me start by saying that I have a lot of time for Breguet. In general, I like what the brand does. Yet, most watches from this age-old name usually leave me wanting in some way, to the extent that I’d stop myself from buying one.
Take today’s contender, the Souscription 2025. It’s a beautiful watch with a white Grand Feu enamel dial and a shapely case. Yet, the watch has a rather portly 40mm case. Sure, it houses a 36mm-wide movement, but it makes this a big watch. And that’s not even the largest issue. No, the main problem with this watch is also its kitschy calling card. The single hand is an okay party trick, but there’s no way I’d choose this watch as a substitute for the Calatrava. After all, it reminds me of all those vintage pieces I’ve bought that had missing or floating hands — or, perhaps, a MeisterSinger.
Go classic or go home
While the Breguet recalls yet another pocket watch from the brand’s early days, the Patek takes its cues from legendary wristwatches from the 1930s. There’s a clear lineage from the original Calatrava ref. 96 to today’s 6196P. Vertical case flanks and barrel-ended lugs are signs that this isn’t your typical dress watch. Plus, with its 9.33mm profile, it remains relatively thin versus the chunkier 10.8mm one-armed bandit. Yet, unlike the Breguet, the Patek still looks fresh and modern instead of like a limited-edition novelty.
Part of that modernity stems from the anthracite-coated hands, applied indexes, and minute track. These dark elements all work well with the rose-gilt opaline dial. Also, the flat bezel has traded 90-degree edges for slight chamfers. All of these changes uphold the classic Calatrava appearance while making the watch attractive for the next generation of buyers.
The manual-winding 30-255 PS is lovely
Similar to last week’s Daniel Roth, I have to hand it to Breguet for creating a beautiful movement. It’s a pretty caliber with an astounding 96 hours coming from one barrel. Could I do without the engraved writings from Breguet on the ratchet wheel? Yes, I prefer traditional finishing. However, the Calatrava’s 30-255 PS, with its 70-hour power reserve, is a looker and features numerous bridges that show off the marque’s finishing prowess. As I’ve stated before, it’s not as finely worked as a vintage model, but it’s still lovely.
The bottom line
It feels silly to compare the prices of these two watches, even though the platinum Calatrava undercuts the Breguet by €5,100. No, I’d prefer to recommend the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P based on the fact that it’s a more realistic watch. The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is charming, but it’s a watch for a collector who has many dress watches. Conversely, the Patek could easily stand as one’s only formal piece. It’s that good and that timeless. Let’s not forget that it also has two central hands.
Nacho: Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Now that you’ve witnessed Mike sing the praises of the platinum Patek, it’s my turn to make a case for the gold Breguet. I’ll preface by saying that it feels good to finally get in the ring with a contender in the same weight class. Not to kick the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 while it’s down, but it was apples and oranges. As much of a better matchup as this one is, I can’t help but still feel confident. And if you’re wondering why, it’s simple. The work of Abraham-Louis Breguet, the man whose name is elegantly inscribed on the Grand Feu enamel dial of the Classique Souscription, is deeply ingrained in the DNA of the dress watch as we know it today. So to see a pocket watch design penned by Breguet himself translated into the modern wristwatch form is a rare full-circle moment.
It’s impossible not to appreciate the Breguet Classique Souscription as a design not only steeped in understated elegance but also deeply rooted in horological heritage. The watch represents the very best of what Breguet is capable of. It arrives at a pivotal moment in the brand’s history, marking the 250th anniversary of this horological institution and symbolizing what feels like a return to form. After several years of getting by, under new leadership, Breguet appears to have found a firm footing once again.
This take on the Classique is not just a great dress watch; it’s also the opening of what feels like an exciting new chapter for the brand. This is bolstered by the handful of remarkable releases that followed the Souscription this year. It’s in stark contrast with Patek’s recent track record, namely, in the release of the Cubitus and the statements that followed its introduction. Need I say more?
A single-handed bid for victory
Now, on paper, there are several similarities shared by these watches. They are both time-only dress watches with precious-metal cases, leather straps, and hand-wound movements. At the same time, they could not be more different. In this section, I’ll make my case for the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 by focusing on several key aspects that distinguish it from the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P. The first key difference is the proprietary Breguet gold case. The yellow-gold tone aligns far better with what one might expect from a traditional dress watch than the white-metal look of the Patek. Although it is undeniably larger, the combination of its gold case, white enamel dial with Breguet numerals, and blued hand gives it a far more elegant look overall.
The Patek, with its pale case, fleshy salmon dial, and polished black hands and indexes, resembles a caricature of what makes a Calatrava an appealing dress watch in the first place. Also, with a 38mm diameter and 9.33mm thickness, it’s oversized for what it is. Vintage Calatravas, with their classic proportions, exude understated elegance. They play it cool, and it works. This reincarnation feels like it’s standing on its tiptoes and puffing its chest out to get attention. It tries too hard. All things considered, the Breguet’s 1.47mm difference in thickness and the 2mm-larger diameter are not that significant. At least it has a good reason to be large, in its incredible movement. This is yet another element that surpasses the nice but not impressive caliber found inside the 6196P.
A final note on price
One final point to note is the price difference. At retail, the Patek costs €47,100, while the Breguet commands €52,200. And although the Breguet is limited to 250 pieces, the fact that someone bid CHF 88,250 for one at a Sotheby’s auction this past weekend tells you everything you need to know about desirability. If you want the Patek, all you have to do is open up Chrono24 and pick one of many sitting at (or slightly above) its retail price — just saying!
As a final note, just last night, the Breguet Classique Souscription won the GPHG’s Aiguille d’Or trophy for “best in show.” For those keeping score, that’s just one more feather in the Breguet’s cap and further proof of its recognition by the wider watch industry.
Vote for your finalist!
There it is, folks! The second semifinal in this Fratello Dress Watch Season is behind us. You’ve heard Mike make his case for the platinum Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P and Nacho advocate for the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. Now the time has come to vote. Only you, our readers, can decide which of these two will make it to the final. Choose wisely, and may the best dress watch win!
