Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The small brands have set a new standard in the world of affordable watches. They pushed the boundaries regarding value for money and introduced some interesting, creative takes on classics. We picked our five favorites after some lively debate. Let’s find out what they are.

Before we get into our list, here is a quick note on what we mean by small brands. It’s not necessarily only about microbrands, but can also be about brands that started as one and managed to grow from there. You will see what we mean by going over the list. But what we can say is that these brands have set new standards when it comes to affordable watches. From using different materials, exotic colors, and raising the bar in design and execution, these brands have been pivotal in moving the affordable watch universe forward. You will also see that reflected in our list of five picks. It took a lot of discussion, but we picked five watches that we like under €500.

Baltic HMS 002

We kick this list off with the Baltic HMS002. The French brand has been at the forefront of a select group of brands that have grown from a microbrand to a well-respected brand with a dedicated following. It’s based on creating some of the best-designed watches in the affordable category.

Baltic takes inspiration from great designs from the past to create very well-balanced watches. The HMS 002 is a perfect example of this philosophy. It’s the perfect dressy option under €500. Currently, Baltic offers four different variations of the HMS 002. Three are in stainless steel with either a silver, blue gilt, or black dial. The fourth and last option is the one you see in the pictures. It’s a gold PVD version with gold details that was part of a three-watch drop in 2023.

All four watches have a 38mm case that is 13mm thick and 47mm from lug to lug. Despite its substantial thickness, it doesn’t feel like a hefty watch. The case is only 10mm thick, and the domed crystal adds 3mm. The classic round-shaped case is combined with a beautiful sector dial.

All four dials feature a classic crosshair, and on the outside of the largest of the two concentric circles that hold the Arabic numerals, you will find the minute track. The inner of the two circles holds the small amounts of text. This keeps the overall look clean and balanced. Inside the case, Baltic equips the HMS 002 with the Miyota 8315. The automatic caliber operates at 21,600vph, has 21 jewels, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. This stylish series of Baltic HMS 002 models is the perfect first pick for €435.

RZE Valour 38

Our next pick comes courtesy of RZE. It’s the young brand’s modern take on a classic field watch. The Valour has undergone some updates over the past couple of years, and if you ask us, it has only gotten better. RZE currently offers four different variations, all of which have a 38mm titanium case that is 11mm thick and measures 45mm from lug to lug.

The lightweight case is combined with a classic field watch dial featuring large Arabic numerals. On the inside of the large numerals, you will find the 13-24h scale, as we are used to on field watch dials. At 6 o’clock, you will find a date window that is integrated neatly and creates a dial that is easy to read, as we would expect from a field watch.

The four different dial variations offer something for everyone. The first is a deep yellow version with black numerals, the second features a black dial with white numerals, and the third model has a slate gray dial with white numerals. The fourth and last option is a cream-colored full lume dial wth black numerals.

If you ask me, that is the best out of the four. I like the cream color a lot, and a full lume dial offers a ton of fun in darker light conditions. Inside the lightweight titanium case, RZE uses the Seiko NH35A caliber. It’s a reliable option for many small brands that operate at 21,600vph and offer 41 hours of power reserve. The watches all come on a black rubber strap and cost €425, making them a great second pick for this list.

Nodus Sector II Dive GMT

The American brand Nodus offers various tool watches that are worth checking out. The Sector II Dive GMT is a great, affordable option in three variants. The GMT diver is available with three different dials. You can also choose between a brushed steel or a black DLC bezel insert.

As you can see in the pictures, this drastically changes the watches’ presence. The dial options are Horizon yellow, Tidal blue, and Seafoam green. All three have a distinctly different vibe, and with the choice of bezel insert, you can switch it up immediately.

The Sector II Dive GMT has a 38mm stainless steel case with a 40mm bezel that is 11.9mm thick, with a 47mm lug-to-lug, and is water resistant up to 100 meters. It doesn’t make it a hardcore dive watch, but most of these won’t see the great depths of the oceans. So for any recreational dive, the watches are perfectly equipped.

The dials feature a full set of luminous markers, a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock, and the 24-hour GMT scale on the rehaut. What stands out is that the dial is super easy to read, making it easy to navigate between its timekeeping and diving functions.

Inside the watch, Nodus chose to use the Seiko NH34 GMT caliber. The automatic movement operates at 21,600vph and offers 41 hours of power reserve. By selecting this movement, the Los Angeles-based brand kept the price at €455, which is perfectly affordable.

The watch comes on a super comfortable Oyster-style bracelet with screw-pins and a NodeX clasp with a toolless micro-adjust system. For the money, it’s hard to find a better travel watch for your adventures, as I will explain in an upcoming review next week. Keep an eye out for that.

Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II

Two watches that took us by surprise at the beginning of the year were the two Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II dive watches. Even our resident Crafter Blue expert Lex was surprised by how good these watches are. These two dive watches combine a unique look with a solid build quality and a reliable Miyota caliber.

The result is two dive watches that are hard to beat at their $449 price. The Mechanic Ocean Mark II features a 41mm stainless steel case that is 13.5mm thick, 51.5mm long, with a water resistance rating of 300 meters. As you can see, the crown is located at 4 o’clock, and the two available models come with a 120-click unidirectional dive bezel.

The brand offers two dial variations in black and silver. They combine well with the unique bezel that doesn’t have a classic 60-minute scale but a collection of dotted markers with the lume pip in light blue. It’s a nice pinch of color that lights up the overall aesthetic nicely. Inside the case for both models, you will find the Miyota 9015 caliber.

This automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. Wearing the watches is an absolute joy thanks to the flexible yet sturdy rubber straps that feature a steel end link that adds even more character.

Whether you choose the black or the gradient gray dial option, the Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Mark II makes for a stylish, versatile daily wearer that is really well-made.

Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic

This final, fun, and affordable option under €500 comes courtesy of Hong Kong-based brand: Spinnaker. The brand’s Fleuss 40 collection is a series of dive watches inspired by the classic Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

But despite its clear design roots, the brand mixes it up with a series of unusual colors and collaborations, making the Fleuss series great to check out if you are looking for a colorful option that you can enjoy as a great change from the serious watches in your collection. We covered two collaborative efforts that Spinnaker made with Seconde/Seconde/. The two Halloween-themed efforts were fun and playful for a special occasion. But you can also go for the regular option, which offers a nice, colorful presence.

The Fleus 40 Automatic features a 40mm stainless steel case that measures 11mm thick, 47mm lug-to-lug, with a water resistance rating of 150 meters. The brand equips the watches inside the case with the Miyota caliber 9039. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 42 hours of power reserve. Regarding what color to go for, you would have to keep an eye out for the different color combinations that Spinnaker offers at the time of checking.

Most of the watches are released as limited editions, so the brand mixes it up regularly. I loved the dark purple aesthetic for the Halloween 2024 limited edition. But we have seen quite a few nice color combinations for the regular editions as well. The regular versions can be yours for just under €400, making them a fun last option for this list.

Final thoughts on the best mechanical watches under €500 from small brands

There you have it! Our list of five affordable mechanical options from small brands under €500. As always, this list is limited to only five options. But if you think we overlooked certain brands or releases, please let us know in the comments section. We will see you next week for the second installment of this series of three articles.