A Hands-On Introduction To The First Skeletonized Hermès H08 With A Brand-New Titanium Movement
This year, Hermès is celebrating the fifth birthday of its H08. It already feels like the maison’s sporty watch, with its characteristic geometric shape, has become a real staple in the collection. But there’s more reason to celebrate, as it’s also been 20 years since Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the Swiss high-end movement maker Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. So, to honor both anniversaries, Hermès and Vaucher are introducing something special at Watches and Wonders this year. Please welcome the first Hermès H08 Squelette, the first H08 with a completely new skeletonized movement.
The “regular” Hermès H08, with its geometric design combining square and round shapes, is already intriguing to look at. But the new H08 Squelette introduces a whole new dimension to Philippe Delhotal’s creation. Let’s take a closer look.
The Hermès H08 Squelette
I’ll start with the familiar case dimensions and work my way toward the brand-new movement. The new Hermès H08 Squelette measures 39mm wide, 42mm from lug to lug, and 11.69mm thick from sapphire to sapphire crystal. Its case is made of DLC-treated Grade 5 titanium and has a matte finish. The squarish ceramic bezel on top features a satin-brushed sunburst finish and mirror-polished bevels.
Usually, that would bring us to the dial, but in this case, you can hardly speak of a dial. There is indeed a layer on top of the movement, but it has been largely openworked. You could say the bare minimum remains to support the applied numerals in the usual H08 style. This time, they consist entirely of luminous blocks. Then, there’s a squarish minute track around the center of the dial, mimicking the bezel’s shape.
You can choose between two color options for the H08 Squelette. There’s a more modest all-gray version, or you can opt for Zanzibar Bleu accents on the numerals, hands, and around the dial. Hermès offers each version with a different selection of colored and textured rubber straps. For the all-gray version, you can choose between sand, green, and navy straps. The Zanzibar Bleu, of course, comes with an accent-matching strap, or you can choose a black one that matches the case.
The all-new Hermès H1978 S skeletonized movement
As mentioned, the skeletonized Hermès H08 celebrates the model’s fifth anniversary and 20 years of collaboration with movement maker Vaucher. That’s also why the all-new skeletonized movement didn’t just get any denomination. The in-house movement is called H1978 S, referring to the year La Montre Hermès was founded. As you’ll understand, this movement was specifically built with skeletonization in mind.
From the dial side, you can already see some of its 168 components, including the twin barrels with a 60-hour power reserve, part of the balance wheel, and the escapement. At the 4:30 position, you’ll find one of the movement’s 26 jewels. Could this be a nod to the date window that’s normally there on the H08? In the skeletonized context, a date complication could’ve actually been quite interesting to look at. Honestly, though, I’m glad Hermès went for a cleaner no-date look this time.
From the backside, you get an even better look at the movement’s black DLC-treated titanium construction. Both the bridges and the rotor resemble the H08’s distinctive shape, and thanks to the see-through nature of the H08 Squelette, you can even see the rotor moving from the front.
The new Hermès H08 Squelette on the wrist
With its lightweight titanium and ceramic construction, the new Hermès H08 Squelette wears very comfortably. I still feel the 39mm width is a bit much for my 17cm (6.7″) wrist, but that’s very personal, of course.
Opening the push-button-operated DLC-treated titanium folding clasp is a breeze, and the rubber straps are very soft and supple. It’s always intriguing to see different parts moving inside the watch while it’s running, and even winding the two barrels becomes a more captivating experience thanks to the skeletonized dial.
If I had to choose between the two versions, I’d probably go with the all-gray one, as it’s more versatile for strap and outfit pairings. But I have to say that the subtle Zanzibar Bleu ring around the dial is a nice touch. I’m wondering if a version with Hermès’s signature orange accents is still in the making.
The new Hermès H08 Squelette with its brand-new automatic movement costs €20,000.
Let me know in the comments below what you think of this sporty new version of the Hermès H08.
