Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum

Independent watchmaking is often most interesting when it balances tradition with something fresh. That is exactly what Nicolas Delaloye has done with the Renaissance. On paper, it’s a classical dress watch with an enamel dial and a hand-wound movement. However, the case is made of tantalum, one of the most intriguing and difficult metals to work with in watchmaking. The combination gives the watch a certain quiet drama, making it feel familiar and unexpected at the same time.

When talking about tantalum watches, you might think of F.P.Journe, J.N. Shapiro, or even Audemars Piguet. But now we have a new player stepping into the picture, and he’s tackling the higher end of tantalum-cased horology.

Proportions that feel right

When you read the specs, the Delaloye Renaissance feels perfectly judged. A 39mm case with an 11.1mm thickness makes for elegant proportions, and the domed sapphire crystal softens the profile. Through the back, another sapphire crystal reveals the caliber inside. If I had to nitpick, perhaps a slightly slimmer profile would have complemented the 39mm case a little better, but beggars can’t be choosers.

The tantalum case itself is what changes the mood entirely. This is not bright steel or lightweight titanium. Tantalum is dense, cool in tone, and has a slightly mysterious quality on the wrist. Weight-wise, it is not too dissimilar to precious metals, yet it still feels quite different. Delaloye pairs it with a crown set with either a citrine or amethyst cabochon, which adds a flicker of color against the muted gray case. I’m not the biggest fan of cabochon crowns (looking at you, Cartier), but this is very subjective criticism. I can understand the appeal.

Why the metal makes a difference in Delaloye’s Renaissance Tantalum

Tantalum-cased watches certainly do exist, but they’re very uncommon. The metal is harder to work with than platinum, denser than steel, and resistant to corrosion. It’s also a nightmare for machinists, which explains why so few brands attempt to work with it. And when they do, it’s in super limited quantities. For collectors, that difficulty adds to the appeal.

Delaloye clearly wanted to take on that challenge and prove it could be done at the highest level. The choice gives the Renaissance Tantalum an edge. This isn’t just another classical dress watch; it feels distinct in the hand and looks subtly different in the light. That cool bluish-gray tone is instantly recognizable once you’ve seen it, and it gives the watch a personality that steel or gold wouldn’t match.

A dial steeped in tradition

The dial options bring the Renaissance Tantalum firmly back into classical territory. Delaloye offers black or ivory enamel, Roman or Arabic numerals, and blued, purpled, or high-polished leaf-shaped steel hands. There’s nothing designed to shock here. Instead, it’s about restraint and timelessness. If I were to buy one, I’d choose the Arabic numerals. On most watches, Roman numerals are a little too classical for my tastes.

Enamel dials demand patience. Fired at high temperatures, they can be ruined at any stage. However, when executed correctly, they have a depth that lacquer or paint can’t replicate. It’s one of those things that collectors obsess over for good reason. You don’t need to be a dial expert to see that these have presence. A small seconds register at 6 o’clock rounds out the layout, keeping everything balanced, calm, and incredibly restrained.

A movement with a story

Inside the Renaissance beats the calibre ND01, a hand-wound movement developed by Nicolas Delaloye. While it takes the gear train, anchor, and balance wheel of the historic AS1130 as a starting point, it is far from a simple reissue and refinish job. The result is something familiar at its core but entirely reimagined, with a fresh yet classical architecture designed to his standards.

The ND01 measures 28mm by 4.4mm and is built and decorated by hand in Delaloye’s Geneva workshop. It runs at a traditional 18,000 vibrations per hour and offers a healthy 72-hour power reserve from a single barrel. A small seconds at 6 o’clock keeps the dial well-balanced, while the sapphire caseback opens up a view of the movement’s character.

The finishing is exactly what you’d expect from a watch of this calibre: polished bevels, perlage, and Geneva stripes, all executed by hand. It doesn’t scream for attention, but it rewards it. This is Delaloye showing that classical watchmaking, handled with care and restraint, can feel every bit as special as something flashier. While classical is not often my thing, it’s incredibly tasteful here and very impressive. You can see Delaloye’s Patek experience shining through. The freesprung balance and swan neck spring, in combination with the small snail regulator adjustment, are particularly stunning.

The Delaloye Renaissance features small but impactful touches

Delaloye hasn’t overlooked the small details either. The Renaissance comes with fabric and nubuck straps in black, beige, or light blue, with the option of discreet tone-on-tone stitching or a pop of purple. Each is secured with a tantalum pin buckle. It’s a thoughtful touch, keeping the material consistent throughout rather than defaulting to steel. This may seem logical, but I see many more instances of mismatched buckle and case materials these days than I would like.

Each of the 24 watches will be assembled and regulated by Nicolas Delaloye himself. Priced at CHF 45,000 before taxes, the Renaissance sits firmly in the territory of rarefied independent watchmaking. But the price is also an honest reflection of the work involved. After all, tantalum is not a forgiving metal, and these dials and movements don’t finish themselves.

Delaloye’s independent spirit

Delaloye began his career as a restorer, working on important pieces from centuries past. That experience is clear in the way he approaches watchmaking today. He understands the value of classical techniques but isn’t content to simply recreate the past.

The Renaissance feels like the purest expression of that idea. It has the calm elegance of a traditional Genevan dress watch, yet the choice of tantalum pushes it into more modern territory. It’s rare, it’s refined, and it shows the hand of someone who wants to make watches that truly last. For me, that’s the kind of independent watchmaking that deserves attention, even if it’s out of my price range. Find out more on Delaloye’s official website.