Richemont Sells Baume & Mercier To The Italian Damiani Group
Yesterday, the watch industry news headline read: “Richemont sells Baume & Mercier to Damiani Group.” The brand that turned 195 last year will soon be in the hands of its Italian distributor. In addition to being the distributor of Baume & Mercier, the family-run group also owns jewelry brands Damiani, Salvini, Bliss, and Calderoni, as well as Murano-based glassmaker Venini. It also owns Rocca, a luxury multi-brand watch and jewelry retail network. With the acquisition of the Swiss watchmaker, it gains full ownership of Baume & Mercier. Will new ownership bring Baume & Mercier back into the focus of watch fans?
After searching for Baume & Mercier articles on the Fratello website, I didn’t find much recent content. And that hurt me because my first serious watch was a “Baume.” It was a Formula 1 chronograph I bought while I was still a student. Yes, I bought it with a discount, but being a student, it was a big purchase. You never forget your first love, so I’ve always had an interest in the brand, though it’s become much more distant and uninteresting in recent years. There were sparks of greatness, so to speak, now and then. The Riviera, which got the understandable nickname “Royal Baume,” is a watch you have to learn to love. Well, I loved the Riviera Perpetual Calendar, which celebrated the 50th anniversary of the luxurious sports collection. With the Damiani Group taking charge, will those kinds of watches make a comeback?
Richemont sells Baume & Mercier to the Italian Damiani Group
Diamani’s acquisition marks a new chapter for the historic Swiss watchmaker. For the new owners, it represents a natural expansion of its luxury universe. Bringing Baume & Mercier into the fold adds a storied specialist watchmaker that operates in the accessible luxury segment. Italy has always been an essential market for Baume. Both Richemont and the Damiani Group see the brand’s future flourishing within the Italian group, thanks to its popularity, predominantly multi-brand wholesale distribution, and positioning at the more approachable end of the luxury watch spectrum.
With the brand in the hands of those who understand the market, Italy could function as a bridgehead, so to speak. Redefine the brand in a country of great style and taste, and after that, convince and conquer the world (again). That won’t happen overnight, but the plans currently shared call for the Damiani Group to invest in Baume & Mercier’s visibility and international reach. The group’s extensive distribution network will play a significant role in the near future, and, in the more distant future, developing selective mono-brand boutiques in key locations is part of the strategy.
See Baume & Mercier at Watches and Wonders 2026
To support a seamless handover, Richemont will continue to provide operational services for Baume & Mercier for a transitional period of at least 12 months following completion of the transaction. We have no news about the future use of Baumatic movements. As you know, the brand uses the Baumatic automatic movement, developed in collaboration with the ValFleurier Manufacture and the Research & Design team of the Richemont Group.
Richemont’s provision of operational services also means Baume will still present its novelties at the upcoming Watches and Wonders. The deal is expected to close in the summer of 2026, subject to customary conditions. The price the Damiani Group paid for Baume & Mercier has not been disclosed. Just like I didn’t disclose to my girlfriend at the time what I bought for my Baume & Mercier.
Do you think Baume & Mercier can become a watch force to be reckoned with (again) in the hands of the independent, family-owned Damiani Group? Can you see rectangular Hamptons and classy yet sporty Cliftons, and the sturdy Riviera, of course, take on some of the biggest names in affordable watchmaking? Please let me know your thoughts in the comments section below.
