The Nomos Tetra 27 Is The Ultimate Style Flex
Nomos is very dear to my heart, and the brand’s Tetra collection must be one of my favorites. The clean Bauhaus dial design works so well in these square watches with subtle, almost Art Deco-style lugs. Currently, you can get a Nomos Tetra with either a 27.5mm or 29.5mm case. For this summer, the brand from Glashütte adds two new options to the 27.5mm lineup — the Tetra 27 White with a sub-seconds register and the Tetra 27 Duo without one. They’re the ultimate flex during the small-watch revival.
For my 17cm wrist, I’d probably choose the slightly bigger 29.5mm size. I’ve always been a fan of the Ode to Joy version that came out in 2020 and has unfortunately been discontinued. I’m still casually looking for one, so if you have one lying around, let me know. But for people with slightly smaller wrists than mine, the 27.5mm size might be a great option. I know it sounds tiny compared to round watches with 36–42mm diameters, but trust me: a square watch wears a lot bigger than you think. All right, let’s take a look at the new Nomos Tetra 27 White and Duo models.
The Nomos Tetra 27
Before the introduction of these two new 27.5mm models, you could choose between only two stainless steel references. Reference 401 features a sub-seconds register with a gray square, while reference 405 omits both of those elements and has brownish printing. In addition, it’s a Doré version, which means it comes with gold-tone hands. These earlier models have the same case design and proportions as the newly added references.
The Tetra 27 features a fully polished stainless steel case, and unlike its name suggests, its sides are actually 27.5mm long. Together with the stepped lugs, the lug span totals 38.5mm. Because of the hand-wound movement inside, the Tetra is a very thin watch, coming in at either 6.1 or 6.4mm thick, depending on whether you go for the all-steel or steel-and-sapphire case back. When you buy the Tetra, you can choose between a vegan velour strap or one of the two stainless steel bracelet options. However, you can, of course, fit any other 18mm strap between the stylish lugs.
The new Nomos Tetra 27 White and Duo
So, what’s new about the Nomos Tetra 27 White and Duo? Well, the Tetra 27 White, reference 402, features an all-flat silver-plated white dial with a sub-dial for the running seconds. The typical elongated numerals are printed in black, and the hands are made of tempered blue steel.
The new Tetra 27 Duo, reference 410, also has a silver-plated white dial, but it lacks the sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Instead, it features a gray square in the center of the dial and a gray border. It’s funny because even though the dial is completely flat, the gray portions create a sense of optical depth. Here, too, the numerals are printed in black, and the hands are made of the same blued steel.
Nomos’s in-house DUW 4001 hand-wound movement powers both new references. It runs at 21,600 vph, features 17 jewels, and has a power reserve of 53 hours. If you opt for the display case back, you can look at the signature Nomos finishing, including Glashütte striping, perlage, snailing, and blued screws.
On the wrist
As I said in the intro, if I were to buy myself a Nomos Tetra, I’d probably go for the slightly larger 29.5mm version. However, the Tetra 27 certainly doesn’t look out of place on my 17cm wrist. Sure, it’s small, but if that’s your style, go for it. There’s no denying the confidence that a small, stylish watch can exude. Nomos also offers the Tetra in two gold versions, which might look even better in this size. The golden case even gives it a little more presence.
Out of the two new references, I’d pick the Tetra 27 White, with its all-white dial and sub-seconds at 6. It’s so simple yet so well considered and undeniably Nomos. Besides, the seconds sub-dial makes it easier to see whether the watch is running.
The two-handed Duo is also very stylish with its gray sections, which add depth to the otherwise very flat dial. However, I prefer to know whether my watch is running, especially when it has a manual-wind caliber inside.
I’d definitely put either one on a more daring strap, though. I did so with my newly acquired Tangente 35 Platinum, and it completely changed the look of the otherwise very monochrome watch. I mean, the more casual nubuck-like strap on the Tetra 27 White is a step in the right direction, but a little bit of color never hurt anyone, right?
Which Tetra 27 would you choose?
So, which one of the two new Nomos references would you pick? Would you go for the White, reference 402, which costs €1,900 with an all-steel case back or €2,120 with a sapphire-equipped one? Or would you go for the Duo, reference 410, which costs either €1,660 or €1,880 with or without that same option? Let me know in the comments below, and if you’d like to know more, check out the official Nomos website.
