What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM
What if the 1969 Defy had been outfitted with an El Primero chronograph movement? And what if its design had been inspired by the USM Haller modular furniture system that debuted four years earlier? The answer is the 2025 Zenith Defy Chronograph USM. The four watches with dials in USM shades and subtle details linking to the distinctive modular cabinets are part of a capsule collection that celebrates timeless 1960s Swiss design. Yes, USM is as Swiss as high-end watchmaking. The furniture lasts a lifetime and is as relevant today as when it debuted. The Defy Chronograph USM mixes retro inspiration with a style that never goes out of fashion. It does so in four signature USM colors: Green, Pure Orange, Golden Yellow, and Gentian Blue.
The colors of the four Zenith Defy Chronograph USM might be striking, but equally remarkable is that this is the first time a Defy with an octagonal silhouette and fourteen-sided bezel is available as a chronograph. The original 1969 Defy, with its sharply angular case and faceted contours, appeared in many versions but not as a chronograph. Now, the 56-year wait is over with the appearance of the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM. The four-watch capsule collection, with each dial color limited to 60 pieces, is available now.
Introducing the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM in four signature colors
Having two prominent Swiss brands like Zenith and USM work together is nothing new; remember Hublot Big Bang Unico Nespresso Origin? Still, when an acclaimed piece of furniture and a watch with a comparable reputation “merge,” something special can occur. We leave it up to you to decide if the collaboration between Zenith and USM is one for the ages. But let’s take a look at the details so you can pass a fair judgment once you finish reading.
The Zenith Defy’s octagonal silhouette, fourteen-sided bezel, and USM’s signature design language are kindred spirits. The design is clear, structured, and strong, creating a dynamic interplay of geometry and surfaces. The polished steel frames of the USM Haller are like the bezel on a watch. The flat panels of the furniture are a bit like the dial of a watch. But it’s on the dial of the Defy Chronograph USM where the collaboration comes to life.
A 37.3mm case and a ladder bracelet
The four versions of the Defy Chronograph USM come in a 1960s-correct 37.3mm case. Its octagonal presence gets a geometrical boost by a 14-sided bezel, while pump-style chronograph pushers are another period-correct retro touch. Completing the look is the iconic “ladder” bracelet, designed by Gay Frères in 1969 exclusively for Zenith. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters, telling you that emphasizing design doesn’t mean functionality goes out the window.
The dial features applied square hour markers with horizontal grooves that underline the watch’s architectural identity. The new Defy chronograph comes in four bold USM signature colors: USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue. You can also order a matching modular USM Haller cabinet in these colors. The three chronograph subdials overlap in classic El Primero style and feature a silver finish with a concentric azuré pattern, echoing the design of the USM handle.
The dial includes more nods to the furniture. For instance, the chronograph seconds hand is tipped with a miniature USM Haller ball joint. It’s also filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in the dark, which is a Zenith touch.
El Primero inside, logos on the back
Inside the first retro-styled Defy chronograph beats the El Primero 400 caliber, an evolution of the 1969 El Primero 3019 PHC. The 5Hz movement features automatic winding, a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, and a layout with central hours and minutes; small seconds at 9 o’clock, chronograph functions, and a date at 4:30.
The El Primero 400 movement, with its open-worked rotor with the symbolized star of the brand from Le Locle, is on full display through the sapphire display case back, its rotor adorned with an open-worked ZENITH star. It’s flanked by the Zenith El Primero and USM logos, so you won’t forget this is a collaboration watch. Not that the deep USM colors of the dial are easily overlooked!
The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM will retail at CHF 10,900/US$11,800. They will be available individually or as a set. Either way, it will come in a special, modular USM Haller case that is a real USP, if you ask me. Do you agree? And what do you think of the first retro Defy chronograph in special design colors? Please let us know in the comments section.
