Fresh Faces For The Sporty Breguet Marine 5517 And Chronographe 5527

As their names already suggest, the Tradition and Classique are Breguet’s classic-looking models, perfect for dressier occasions. But what if you want a sportier, water-resistant watch from the maison that made timepieces for royalty and emperors? Breguet has you covered with the Marine collection, available in precious metals as well as titanium.

A Breguet marine chronometer

Breguet marine chronometers

The Marine collection is inspired by the marine chronometers Breguet delivered to the French Royal Navy in the 19th century. These played an essential role in navigating ships to places like the Antarctic and the Pacific or around the world, as Captain Hyacinthe Yves Philippe Potentien, baron de Bougainville, did between 1824 and 1826 with his Breguet marine chronometer no. 3588 on board the frigate Thétis.

White gold Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527

Naval inspiration

Of course, Breguet’s inspiration for these watches comes more from the adventurous spirit and robustness of the ship chronometers than from their aesthetics. That said, some elements are based on the design of the first marine chronometer. The Breguet Marine “apple” hands show inspiration from ships’ clocks, and the little “B” tip on the seconds hand should remind us of the “Bravo” maritime flag. Even the three-hand models’ crown guards are a nod to the movement of waves. With a great eye for detail, Breguet also ensured the calibers’ rotors have a nautical theme, showing inspiration from a ship’s rudder.

Rose gold Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527

New Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 additions

Today, Breguet announced new variations of its Marine 5517 and 5527 references. More specifically, these are “Quai de l’Horloge” guilloché variations. The hand-guilloché work on the dials was also seen for the brand’s 250th anniversary last year (both the Classique 7225 “Mickey Mouse” and 7235 have “Quai de l’Horloge” hand-guilloché dials). These new Marine variants come in titanium, 18K rose gold, or 18K white gold, each with a different dial colorway. Each version is also available with a matching metal bracelet or a rubber strap, bringing the total to 12 new Breguet Marine references. The rubber straps have a motif similar to the guilloché pattern on the dials.

White gold Marine 5517

Marine 5517 dials

You will find three new dials for the Breguet Marine 5517. The white gold version features an ice-blue lacquered gold dial. It has a rhodium-plated hour ring with Arabic numerals in blue-treated 18K gold. On the hand-guilloché center of the dial, you will find an applied blue-treated 18K gold Breguet logo. All the blued hands are made of gold as well.

Rose gold Marine 5517

The 18K rose gold Marine 5517 has a classy-looking black-lacquered gold dial. All hands, applied numerals, and other applied elements on the black dial are in 18K rose gold.

Titanium Marine 5517

The titanium Breguet Marine 5517 also comes with a hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” 18K gold dial, lacquered in blue. All the Breguet numerals on the hour ring are applied in 18K rose gold, just like the hands and other applied elements. Regardless of the case material, all dials have the date at 6 o’clock, with an applied frame around the aperture.

Rose gold Marine Chronographe 5527

Marine Chronographe 5527 dials

In the Chronographe 5527 references, we also find 18K gold dials featuring the hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” motif. However, the colors differ from those of the 5517 references in titanium, white gold, and rose gold.

White gold Marine Chronographe 5527

The 18K white gold chronograph features an 18K gold dial with a light blue gradient lacquer finish. The 18K gold hands have received a gray treatment, as have the Breguet logo at 12 o’clock and the date frame at 6 o’clock. The rose gold 5527 uses a darker blue gradient lacquer, and all applied details are in 18K rose gold to match the case (and bracelet).

Titanium Marine Chronographe 5527

Lastly, the titanium Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527 has a gold dial with a gray gradient lacquer finish. Here, the gold hands and elements also receive a gray treatment.

White gold Marine Chronographe 5527

What remained the same

Breguet did not change the dimensions of these Marine watches. The 5517 still has a 40mm diameter, an 11.5mm profile, and a 47.7mm lug-to-lug. The Marine Chronographe 5527 is slightly larger than the 5517 but the same size as the other 5527 references in the collection, with a 42.3mm width, 13.9mm thickness, and 50.7mm length. Last but not least, the strap or bracelet starts at 21mm at the lugs. All Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 cases have a fluted middle case, a screw-down crown, and a 100m water resistance rating.

Caliber 528QA

What has changed

The major change comes with the Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527, as the layout has changed from three sub-dials to two. The 12-hour recorder disappeared, and the flyback chronograph now just has a large central elapsed-seconds hand and a 30-minute recorder at 3 o’clock. This made it possible for Breguet to move the date aperture from between 4 and 5 o’clock to 6. Inside is still the same Breguet chronograph caliber 582QA. This movement has a 48-hour power reserve and a 4Hz (28,800vph) frequency. As mentioned above, the rotor is shaped like a ship’s rudder. The finishing and decoration are as you’d expect from Breguet, including perlage, Côtes de Genève, and beveled angles. This movement comprises 343 components and has 28 jewels.

Titanium Marine Chronographe 5527

Initial impressions

The Breguet Marine collection isn’t always on my radar, undeservedly so. A few years ago, we received the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 for review, and although it’s a very impressive watch with a beautiful movement, the bracelet stuck with me for a long time. The Marine bracelets are so nicely done and very comfortable on the wrist. I am happy to see that Breguet has not changed the bracelets for these new additions. The new hand-guilloché dials on the 5517 and 5527 are very welcome, and I prefer them to the sunburst dials of the other 5517 references in the collection.

I can’t wait to go hands-on with one of these new Breguet Marine models. And when I do, I will report back to you.

Pricing

For all specifications, refer to the overview below, and for more information on these new Marine references, visit the official Breguet website.