Going Hands-On With The New Arken Alterum Sage Grey GMT
The fun thing about my hands-on experience with the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey is that I went into it rather blindly. While that is nothing special in and of itself, when two Fratello team members actually own an Arken Alterum, it is slightly more remarkable. Obviously, I knew about the brand and the watch because my colleague Nacho owns one and we had talked about it. But I had never actually tried the Alterum on my wrist. With the new Alterum Sage Grey, I had a chance to find out more about this popular travel GMT. On top of that, I prefer the new green-dial version of the watch over the first two models with anthracite and black dials. As a fan of GMT watches, I very much looked forward to this experience.
You might think that it has been somewhat quiet for Arken since its last two releases debuted in 2023. But that is not the entire story. The inaugural models were first offered in a limited run of 200 pieces per color. After those all sold out quickly, a restock followed, and then an open-ended run wrapped up availability of the first two Alterums last year. But Arken founder Kenneth Lam also released a series of “Speakeasy” Alterum variants that were available exclusively at Arken’s meetups during watch shows and special events. You could only buy these special versions, often with a Cerakote case, in person from Lam. In a world of new releases, this personal approach is not just commendable but also smart because it keeps people interested in Arken.
The story of the Arken Alterum Sage Grey
With the new Alterum Sage Grey, Arken releases a third publicly available model. The story of the watch is straightforward, as it is simply a new dial color. But that’s also where some confusion initially arose. The Sage Grey Alterum comes with a green dial and strap that could better be described as “pine green.” It certainly feels more green than gray, but the new dial color suits the watch really well. And the name won’t stop you from enjoying the watch if you love the color, which I do.
In terms of specs, nothing has changed. The Altermum still features a 40mm titanium case with a 13mm thickness, a 46mm lug-to-lug, and a scratch-resistant coating. As Nacho explained in his article on the inaugural models, the watch feels nicely proportioned and smaller than its 40mm size would suggest. The sloping bezel has a 38mm diameter, with the curvy case lines making up the remainder of the measurement. Overall, this is a well-designed and well-executed case, and the design reminds me of the famous TAG Heuer Kirium from the 1990s.
The new green dial of the Arken Alterum Sage Grey
This Alterum’s new green dial features the same grainy texture as previous models. It provides a nice backdrop for the intricate design. On top of it, we find 3D hour markers made of solid blocks of BGW9 Super-LumiNova, placed on a white circle. Located on the dial’s periphery is a white minute track, and at 6 o’clock, you will find the sub-dial for the date display. Finally, two small apertures, just below 3 and 9 o’clock, serve as AM/PM indicators for both local and home time.
Hovering over the dial are two lume-filled gunmetal hands for the hours and minutes. Completing the handset are a white seconds hand and a lume-filled lollipop hand in beige. I love the combination of a beige hand and a dark green dial, as it creates a strong contrast. On top of that, it simply looks classy.
Powering the watch is the same automatic ARK-9015DT movement from the previous models. It is a modified Miyota 9015 caliber that uses a specially developed module for the dual-time function. The Miyota 9015 operates at 28,800 vph, has 24 jewels, and offers a 42-hour power reserve. It is part of the brand’s premium 9xxx series of calibers that have proven to be super reliable options for microbrands.
Operating the ARK-9015DT movement
As mentioned, the module Arken developed provides the dual-time function. As a result, the operation of the caliber requires some explanation. On the right side of the case, we find a screw-down crown with a screw-down pusher just below it. The latter allows you to set the date.
After unscrewing the crown at 3 o’clock, you can adjust both the main time display and the time in the second time zone. By rotating the crown clockwise, you can set the local time, and the beige 12-hour GMT hand that displays the home time will follow suit. Additionally, the date will advance if you set the local time after midnight.
Turning the crown counterclockwise, however, moves only the local-time hand, while the home-time hand stays fixed. So if both hands start synced and you travel six hours behind your home time zone (Amsterdam to New York, for instance), you simply set the local time back while the home-time hand stays in place. If you adjust the local and home time, the AM/PM indicators will alternate between white (AM) and black (PM). The left is connected to the local time, while the right one displays AM/PM at home.
Wearing the Arken Alterum Sage Grey
Rounding out the Alterum is a tapered quick-release nylon strap in dark green. The strap’s color matches the dial nicely and gives the watch a stylish overall presence. On top of that, it is nicely flexible while balancing the case on the wrist perfectly. I was pleasantly surprised by how well the Arken Alterum wears. You might think a 40mm × 13mm watch would feel rather substantial on the wrist, but the sloping bezel and case sides make it feel smaller. It also gives the ’90s-style case a nice bit of character. On top of that, at 72 grams including the strap, the Alterum is super easy to wear.
When wearing it, you’ll also notice how nicely the crown and pusher are recessed into the case. Nice details like these show how much work Kenneth Lam put into the Alterum’s design. As a result, the watch not only wears comfortably but will also stand out in any collection. There aren’t many watches on the market today that look like the Alterum.
Add the weirdly wonderful dual-time complication, and you will end up with a watch that offers welcome functionality and plenty of standout power. Considering Lam’s personal approach on top of all that, it’s not surprising that the Alterum has become a big success for Arken at £630 / €730 / US$850.
Final thoughts on the new Arken Alterum Sage Grey
With the prevalence of the Miyota 9075 flyer-style GMT caliber, the question is whether that would not be a better option for an affordable GMT like the Arken Alterum. And Lam will also tell you that it would have been a far more practical option. However, when he began developing the Alterum, the Miyota 9075 wasn’t available yet. As a result, he had to embark on a creative quest to find a solution that led to the Alterum. Considering the watch’s great success, it has paid off.
The initial limited batch of the new Sage Grey model, available for immediate shipping, went on sale on May 23rd and sold out instantly. Last Saturday, the unlimited pre-order window opened, so you can now pre-order your Alterum Sage Grey, with deliveries expected between Q4 2026 and Q2 2027.
After wearing the new Alterum Sage Grey for a week, I completely understand why so many people like the Arken Alterum. As mentioned, it’s a travel watch that will stand out in any collection. On top of that, the quirky GMT caliber offers a nice dual-time function that takes a minute to get used to but offers a charm that many people love.
Add the friendly price tag for a lightweight titanium travel watch and the personal approach that Kenneth Lam takes with his brand, and it makes sense that so many people are fans of Arken. With this new Sage Grey version, Lam has also piqued my interest, and I will definitely keep an eye on what is to come.
