Hands-On With The Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton: Nothing To Hide And Proud Of It
If you’ve been around since 1737, you know who you are. Favre Leuba disappeared from the watch scene in 1985 but reappeared in 2024. All that insight and knowledge didn’t disappear from the world’s second-oldest watch brand during its 39-year absence. The new, resurrected Favre Leuba acts self-assuredly, leading to reinterpreted classics such as the Deep Raider and Harpoon, as well as the 1970s Chief. I went hands-on with the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton, the brand’s first-ever skeletonized creation. This confident mix of nostalgia and contemporary features is nominated for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2026 in the Challenge Watch category. I have no idea what the jury’s verdict will be, but I will give you my ruling first.
If the Harpoon Revival is too retro, and the Deep Raider Revival and Renaissance are too sporty, Favre Leuba might have something if you’re looking for a retro-contemporary, technical-looking watch. The Chief Skeleton comes in seven variations, including three featuring steel cushion-shaped cases and gold-tone skeletonized movements (€4,000 / US$4,500 / £3,450) and four in black DLC-treated steel cases with black chrome-finish movements (€4,100 / US$4,600 / £3,550)
Hands-on with the Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton
All seven iterations of the Chief Skeleton step forward as if they have nothing to hide and are proud of it. That’s the way to go, and their 40 × 11.76mm cases show distinct 1970s inspiration in a rather modest size. Using color on the flanges and the smooth, profiled, case-fitted rubber straps was a distinctly modern design choice. Some of the black DLC-steel versions look even more contemporary, with colorful flanges and straps that contrast with a case-matching movement. I had the opportunity to check out the version nominated for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2026 in the Challenge Watch category. It features a steel case, a gold-colored movement, and blue details.
The potential winner’s case offers a lively interplay between brushed surfaces and polished accents, highlighting the watch’s distinctive retro-futuristic shape. It also has a practical 100m water resistance rating, thanks in part to the screw-down crown. The smooth, seamlessly integrated lug design creates a streamlined, flowing profile, and the chosen strap complements it perfectly. This deep blue strap is made of FKM (fluoroelastomer), a high-performance synthetic rubber based on fluorinated hydrocarbon polymers.
As with all non-DLC-coated Chief Skeleton variants, the rubber strap matches the dial flange and closes with a pin buckle bearing the Favre Leuba logo. Quick-release pins, however, allow you to change the watch’s look in a flash. You might want to put something more neutral on it, like the stainless steel bracelet that Favre Leuba offers for €360 / US$390 / £300.
Geometric skeletonizing
We can talk about the case and the strap all we want, but in the end, this watch is all about the movement. In my experience, skeletonized movements are polarizing; they’re really a love-it-or-hate-it kind of thing. I guess the Chief Skeleton is no different. Favre Leuba developed the watch’s skeletonized automatic caliber FLS01 in collaboration with Manufacture AMT, Sellita’s sister company responsible for higher-grade and proprietary calibers. Its multilayered construction gives this modern take on the traditional skeleton watch plenty to show. The balance wheel sits at 6 o’clock, secured by a horizontally brushed bridge. Now, is it just me, or do you also get strong tourbillon vibes with that balance at 6 o’clock? Anyway, the openworked barrel lets you see the coiled mainspring as well.
The geometric, 4N-gold-plated bridges show contrasting surfaces and finishes that add depth to the architecture. Once a brand starts skeletonizing, nothing is safe, so the rotor visible through the case back is also openworked. The movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a relatively modest 41-hour power reserve.
A skeleton on the wrist
On the wrist, the supple rubber strap makes the Chief Skeleton easy to wear, but the watch’s strong look makes it impossible to ignore. That’s precisely what Favre Leuba has strived for. The color contrasts between the case, flange, strap, and movement are intense, and the skeletonized movement is the bright red cherry on top. Still, the case’s flowing lines and 1970s-inspired design give off classic vibes.
In the dark, this watch shows another face. When the blue-glowing Super-LumiNova C1 X1 on the applied rhodium-plated indexes and hour and minute hands lights up, the Chief Skeleton looks distinctly modern. I’m sorry to say that I can’t give you my ruling on this watch. That’s mostly because I find it hard to decide whether it’s for me. The mix of a 1970s-inspired case design, strong colors, a rubber strap, and a skeletonized movement is a lot to process. But I think Favre Leuba had just that in mind — an unapologetically bold, openhearted creation that would catch people’s attention. Well, it caught the attention of the GPHG members. I hope the jury won’t feel as confused as I do and will give a positive verdict today when handing out the awards.
Would you vote for this Favre Leuba Chief Skeleton? Please let me know in the comments section below.
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