A Watch That Makes Me Smile: The New Daniel Roth Extra-Plat In Rose Gold
I like simple things, but they are often the hardest to design, whether that’s a pen, camera, bag, knife, phone, or watch. In my opinion, a dress watch should be simple. Complications are often just distractions. While they are admirable ones, especially when perfectly executed by a skilled watchmaker, they have no place in a simple dress watch. At least, that’s my requirement for a perfect dress watch. Even a seconds hand is too much.
Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Rose Gold
I tried on the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription watch in yellow gold earlier this year (click here), and it left me smitten. It features just two hands, a beautiful handmade guilloché dial, and a 35.5 × 38.6mm double-ellipse case with a striking 7.7mm profile, all crafted in gold. This model came after the Daniel Roth Tourbillon as a Souscription edition in yellow gold and a regular model in rose gold. Just like the original Daniel Roth watches from the man himself in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the Tourbillon came first, and the two-hander followed suit.
Last December, I chose the Daniel Roth Tourbillon as one of my favorite watches of 2024, but that was before the brand introduced the Extra-Plat models in yellow gold (Souscription) and, now, the rose gold version.
And it might get insulting here, but I prefer the two-hander over the tourbillon. As said, I like things plain and simple, and now Daniel Roth introduces its second Extra-Plat model, the rose gold reference DBBD01A1.
Caliber DR002
While the yellow gold Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription features a solid yellow gold case back, the new rose gold version has a sapphire display. This allows the lucky owner to admire its beautiful hand-wound caliber DR002. Master watchmakers Michael Navas and Enrico Barbasini, along with their team, designed this movement. It measures only 3.1mm thick and has a free-sprung balance wheel with four arms, each fitted with a variable-inertia weight for regulation. The DR002 movement is nicely decorated with Côtes de Genève, perlage, anglage (chamfering), and high-polished screw heads.
When I talked to Navas during an event earlier this year, I was amazed at how humble and friendly he was. On his wrist was a prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon. He talked about his experiences working for Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Franck Muller, and Gérald Genta before La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
He shared stories about how he came up with the wildest ideas for complications at Franck Muller, how he met and works with Jean Arnault, and how he inherited watchmaking tools from his father, who also worked on watches. Navas told me that he and his team are in touch with the legendary Daniel Roth and ensure he is involved in every step they take with the brand. It all sounded like they’re having a lot of fun in what they do, and it shows. The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat in rose gold is a beautiful dress watch that ticks many boxes.
Not for everyone
I also realize (and noticed in some comments on previous Daniel Roth articles) that these watches, especially their design, are not for everyone. And that’s fine; they don’t need to be. This watch is meant for the financially lucky few (not me) with great appreciation for Daniel Roth and/or the master watchmakers Navas and Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
It’s not very often that I try on a watch that immediately blows me away. The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat did, though. And that is what this passion for watches is about.
It also looks great on a woman’s wrist
A watch should impress you when you put it on your wrist, regardless of price and brand name, and perhaps even irrespective of whether there are any flaws to discover. A watch should make you smile or even catch your breath! That was my experience with the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat.
Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Rose Gold — final details and thoughts
I slightly prefer yellow gold, but this new rose gold edition is just as impressive. The transparent case back on the Extra-Plat in rose gold will probably add value for most collectors, enabling them to admire the work of Navas and Barbasini. La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton crafted the dial out of white gold and gave it a pinstripe guilloché decoration. There’s also a rose gold chapter ring with black Roman numerals.
As you can see, the chapter ring has filet sauté borders. The black (steel) hands match the Roman numerals and wordmark at 12 perfectly. Daniel Roth’s Extra-Plat Rose Gold comes on a taupe calfskin strap with a rose gold pin buckle. The watch will cost CHF 49,000 before taxes.
In the end, it’s a matter of taste, but only a few other dress watches have made me smile the way the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat does. What do you think of it? Let me know in the comments below.
