Introducing: The Ming 37.09 Bluefin Diver

I always find new releases from Ming interesting, but the thought of a new diver from the brand brings me to the edge of my seat. Ming’s designers rarely dabble in tool watches, so when they do, it’s worth taking notice. Today’s new 37.09 Bluefin comes nearly four years after the original Ming diver, the 18.01, and brings noticeable differences.

There are many reasons why I enjoy Ming watches. The brand’s focus on design purity, continuity between models, and innovative materials stand out as highlights. The sheer simplicity of many Ming designs has also attracted me to them while taking a toll on my bank account. This fanatical obsession with cleanliness and purity, however, has largely kept Ming away from designing tool watches. In 2020, Ming released its first scale-production dive watch, the 18.01 H41, and it’s fair to say that it stayed true to the brand’s design ethos. Since then, we’ve barely heard a peep about a successor. That changes today with the new 37.09 Bluefin.

The Ming 37.09 Bluefin

I’m fortunate to have a nice relationship with Praneeth Rajsingh, Ming’s CEO, and we chat via email every so often. I sometimes ask for hints on upcoming watches, and at some point, he shared that a new diver was coming. The only other clue I received was the new watch would have two crowns. I own a few compressor-style dive watches, and while I like them, I generally prefer single-crown divers with external bezels. With that in mind, I was set to be disappointed. However, once I saw the new 37.09 Bluefin and read about this development, my concerns vanished.

The Ming 37.09 Bluefin is a 38mm × 44.5mm stainless steel dive watch with a 600m depth rating. For those who felt the 18.01 was a bit thick (it wasn’t; it only looked that way), this watch impresses at just 12.8mm overall. It also contains a substantial, 2.8mm-thick domed sapphire crystal that transitions onto the case and leaves the watch without a bezel. This design decision is a good example of how Ming extracts a similar feature from a more expensive watch, such as the 29.01, and applies it to a more affordable model. A flatter but slightly domed sapphire crystal is also used for the display back.

Yet again, a gorgeous dial

The dials are often the centerpiece of a Ming watch. That’s certainly the case on the 37.09 Bluefin because it’s gorgeous. The brand chose a metalized deep blue sapphire dial. It is etched and then filled with Super-LumiNova X1. However, in a move that differs from traditional internal-bezel divers, the internal bezel is on the main dial.

Therefore, when using the sealed, lume-filled crown at 4 o’clock, the dial turns unidirectionally with 60 clicks. Note that the bezel crown does not screw down and can be used underwater. The normal hour indices are etched on the crystal’s underside and use Super-LumiNova X1. Time is adjusted via a screw-down crown at 2 o’clock. All hands contain the same luminescent material. As you can see, this watch lights up like the proverbial Christmas tree and the bezel markings are especially visible. From an angle, the layering between the hour markers and the internal bezel is noticeable.

Other details about the 37.09 Bluefin

The Ming 37.09 Bluefin uses a Sellita SW300 automatic caliber as its base. Ming then brings in anthracite bridges and a matching rotor with circular brushing. The movement features hacking and approximately 50 hours of power reserve. The strap is also worth noting because Ming states it has been under development for nearly as long as the watch. The medium blue 20mm strap is made from FKM rubber and uses the brand’s signature keeperless tuck buckle. I own similar buckles, and they’re a godsend for those of us with smaller wrists. Plus, it helps maintain a clean aesthetic.

Final thoughts, availability, and pricing

I didn’t expect to like the 37.09 Bluefin as much as I do. It’s a beautiful take on a dive watch and, once again, shows that Ming can bring something different to a popular genre. The brand’s use of materials, lume, and construction make for a fresh offering that has me seriously tempted. The layering and dial depth are also mesmerizing. The watch will cost CHF 4,950, and Ming will make 500 pieces this year. Orders will open on May 24th at 13:00 GMT with deliveries commencing in October 2024. Fans of Ming designs who enjoy a dive watch with an internal bezel should find this compelling. The new 37.09 represents a new format for Ming, yet it’s done well and still very much in keeping with the brand’s design ethos.

For more information on the new 37.09 Bluefin, visit the official Ming website.