Jaeger-LeCoultre has a reputation for revered watchmaking, all within a single facility in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. For 2025, La Grande Maison unveils two new Master Ultra Thin timepieces. Both feature a soft, almost terracotta-like shade of copper. The grainy texture also lends the aesthetic a touch of ruggedness. Yet, the playful palette does not diminish the Master Ultra Thin’s sophistication. It retains its classical layout and brings a tone that warms the soul as the Northern Hemisphere shifts into winter. The new Moon and Date versions share the excellent dial color and texture, and both feature a 39mm stainless steel case. So let’s go right to the core of these new JLC watches.

The pink gold Reverso Tribute, paired with its Milanese bracelet, has taken center stage this year. Still, JLC’s traditional round watches remain relevant. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon (ref. Q1368460) and Date (ref. Q1238460) exemplify subtlety. Both dials have finely textured finishes that play with light. In low light, they appear a soft pink, but in direct sunlight, they shift to a vibrant copper. This blend of texture and color elevates the watch beyond a mere dial update.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon ref. Q1368460 tilted backward

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon

Jaeger-LeCoultre is revered in the watchmaking industry. Its calibers stand the test of time, even when undergoing the brand’s rigorous 1,000-hour control process. Caliber 925 in the latest Master Ultra Thin Moon is no exception, proudly powering the time and moonphase display. The silver moon disc shines above a deep blue starry background. Surrounding the moonphase aperture is the radial date display, featuring black printing of odd numbers and dots for even dates. The curved section, which indicates the waxing and waning of the Moon, also features extremely fine grooving to vary the texture from the grainy dial. This is a well-balanced use of a complication that avoids overwhelming the Master Ultra Thin’s minimalism.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon ref. Q1368460 on wrist

The razor-sharp dauphine hands are brushed and polished on both sides to enhance legibility. These hands are also perfectly proportioned against the long, trapezoid hour markers. Alongside the 39mm stainless steel case are actuators for the independent setting of the moonphase and date indicators. JLC provides a soft-tipped tool to advance these functions for correct setting. Though if you are caught short, a matchstick tip or cocktail stick works well. My only gripe is that the buttons sit on the sides of the case, which is awkward. Despite innovation from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mechanism department, I prefer these functions to be integrated with the crown. Still, caliber 925 provides an impressive 70-hour power reserve and keeps the 9.3mm-thick case looking svelte,

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date ref. Q1238460 tilted upright view

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date

Previous iterations of the Master Ultra Thin Date often favor silver, blue, or black dials — all classic choices. But the introduction of the copper dial with a grainy texture truly livens up the model. The date window at 6 o’clock features a crisp, black frame that contrasts with the warmer dial base. And just above the date aperture is the text “Automatique” to remind you of the movement’s self-winding capability. Caliber 899 is a simple movement, but this 3.3mm-thick mechanism lives up to the Ultra Thin name, owing to the stainless steel case’s 7.89mm overall thickness. More so than the Moon model, the Date can own its Ultra Thin moniker. Caliber 899 also features a 70-hour power reserve and utilizes a single external actuator to advance the date.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date ref. Q1238460 diagonal profile view

The polished case is as traditional as they come, with sloping case sides that twist at the lugs. An interchangeable brown alligator strap with a stainless steel folding buckle secures the connection. This quick-release system is a welcome modern touch, allowing for tool-free strap changes to match the watch to any occasion. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date is an elegant timepiece that is both simple in design and exquisitely crafted. For both watches, the calibers receive Côtes de Genève decoration, meticulously beveling, heat-blued screws, and a 22K gold rotor.

Availability and pricing

Each of the copper-dial Master Ultra Thin watches is limited to 800 pieces and is available for purchase online and in select stores. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon is €12,800 / US$12,600 / £10,700. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Date costs €10,500 / US$10,400 / £8,750. Let us know what you think of these new variants in the comments below!

Watch specifications

Model
Master Ultra Thin Date / Master Ultra Thin Moon
Reference
Q1238460 / Q1368460
Dial
Copper color with grained texture, polished applied indexes, and date window or moonphase/date sub-dial at 6 o'clock
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
39mm (diameter) × 7.9mm (thickness) / 39mm (diameter) × 9.3mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel and sapphire crystal, affixed with four screws
Movement
Jaeger-LeCoultre 899 or 925 (Master Ultra Thin Date / Master Ultra Thin Moon): automatic with manual winding, 28,800vph (4Hz) frequency, 70-hour power reserve, 32 (899) or 30 (925) jewels, Côtes de Genève, perlage, blued screws, 22K gold rotor
Water Resistance
5 bar
Strap
Brown alligator (21/18mm) with interchangeable double-folding clasp
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, seconds) and date / Time (hours, minutes, small seconds), pointer date, moonphase indicator
Price
€10,500 / US$10,400 / £8,750 (Master Ultra Thin Date) | €12,800 / US$12,600 / £10,700 (Master Ultra Thin Moon)
Special Note(s)
Limited edition of 800 pieces each