Longines Impressively Expands The Master Collection

Within the Longines lineup, the Master collection focuses on the rich history of the brand’s craftsmanship and watchmaking elegance. Back in June, the time-and-date Master models got a complete overhaul. Longines now introduces a new dial variation of the Master 41, an updated version of the Master Chrono Moonphase, and the impressive Master Chrono Monopusher. The three watches perfectly display what the Master collection has to offer. In particular, the new Master Chrono Monopusher quickly made a lasting impression. It’s time to find out more.

In all honesty, I don’t usually keep a close eye on the Longines Master collection. It’s not that I don’t like the watches; it’s just that they’re generally a bit too classic for my taste. Also, the brand’s lineup is extensive, and the Heritage, Conquest, and Spirit collections are already three standouts for me. Then again, I love being surprised by watches that don’t seem like my cup of tea at first. That’s why I was more than happy to take the three new Master models for a spin. They are part of a big drop that also features multiple ladies’ watches. On top of that, the models we had in our office all feature different dial colors. Let’s go over the different watches we received.

The Longines Master 39 and 41 Light Blue

The first two new ones are dial variations of the Master 39 and Master 41. We only got the larger 41mm model, but I’ll go over both of them. The smaller version has a 39mm stainless steel case with a 9.05mm profile. Its bigger brother has a larger and slightly thicker 41 × 9.5mm stainless steel case. Both are water resistant to 30 meters. Another difference is that the 39mm model has a 20mm lug spacing, while the 41mm model takes a 21mm strap.

The round case does not necessarily have a retro silhouette. Rather, the dial design gives both watches a vintage feel. Both feature a light blue dial with a barleycorn pattern. The outer ring holding the minute track has a smoother yet refined texture. The dial also includes 11 applied Arabic numerals and a date window at 3 o’clock. The combination of the pattern and, particularly, the numerals makes the watch look classic.

Two sizes, available with a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet

Both watches house the Longines caliber L888.5, which is visible through the sapphire crystal in the case back. The automatic movement operates at 25,200 vph, has 21 jewels, and offers a 72-hour power reserve. It is the same caliber that powers the latest version of the Longines HydroConquest, which debuted this year. The caliber is based on the ETA A31.L11, which is itself an evolution of the famous ETA 2892-A2.

Both the Master 39 and 41 are available on an anthracite alligator leather strap with a butterfly clasp featuring a push-button release mechanism and a toolless micro-adjustment system. The second option is a five-row stainless steel bracelet that instantly changes the look of both watches. The bracelet also includes a butterfly clasp with push-button release and toolless micro-adjustment. The 39mm model costs €2,550 on either the strap (ref. L2.949.4.99.2) or the bracelet (ref. L2.949.4.99.6). The bigger 41mm model we received is slightly more expensive, retailing for €2,650 on the strap (ref. L2.950.4.99.2) or the bracelet (ref. L2.950.4.99.6).

The Longines Master Chrono Moonphase

The next introduction is the Longines Master Chrono Moonphase. This new version, like the time-and-date models, also gets an updated dial design. The biggest changes are the applied numerals and the different textures for the center and outer ring of the dial. But let’s talk specs first. The updated Master Chrono Moonphase has a 41 × 48.6 × 13.8mm stainless steel case with a 21mm lug width. This case has a 30m water resistance rating and features a knurled crown with an engraved winged hourglass logo, along with two pushers to control the chronograph.

The silver dial bears the same refined barleycorn pattern as the previous models. It features blue applied numerals, three sub-dials at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, and the Longines logo at 3 o’clock. Encircling the center is a minute track with numerals for every five minutes placed on the inside. The closed railroad track divides every second into five parts for more precise chronograph timing. Additionally, the chapter ring on the periphery displays the dates of the month, indicated by a central hand with a half-moon-shaped tip.

The many functions of the Longines Master Chrono Moonphase

The first of the three sub-dials, at 6 o’clock, displays the moon phase and features the chronograph’s 12-hour counter. The sub-dial at 9 o’clock shows the running seconds and also serves as a 24-hour indicator. Lastly, the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is the chronograph’s 30-minute counter and also displays the day and month. The central handset consists of the hour and minute hands, the aforementioned date hand, and the chronograph seconds hand. All hands are executed in blue, matching the Arabic numerals on the dial and creating a classic overall presence.

Inside the case lies the Longines caliber L687.5, which also powered the previous generation of this model. This automatic chronograph movement operates at 28,800 vph, has 27 jewels, and offers a 66-hour power reserve. Though based on the Valjoux 7751, it features a higher-end column wheel and a silicon balance spring.

An impressive update

Just like the time-and-date models, you can get the new Master Chrono Moonphase on either a 21mm leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. For this particular watch, Longines chose a blue alligator strap to match the hands and numerals. It features the same folding clasp with push-button release and toolless micro-adjustment system as the time-and-date models. The same goes for the stainless steel bracelet. It is the same 21mm bracelet that Longines uses for the time-and-date Master 41.

Either on the leather strap (ref. L2.962.4.73.2) or the stainless steel bracelet (ref. L2.962.4.73.6), the new Master Chrono Moonphase costs €4,150. This is exactly what the brand asked for the previous-generation version, so despite the update, we don’t get a price increase. I quite like this update because the applied Arabic numerals make the watch look a bit more exclusive. On top of that, they are smaller and not cut off, which is a great improvement over the previous version. Kudos to Longines for this nice update!

The Longines Master Chrono Monopusher

The last model we tried in the office was the new Longines Master Chrono Monopusher. This one immediately caught the eye of most Fratello team members. It looks awesome in the same style as the classic chronographs from the 1940s and ’50s. The watch has a 41 × 48.6 × 12.6mm stainless steel case with a 21mm lug spacing. Although I would have loved to see a slightly smaller case, the overall profile is nice and slim.

Longines offers two dial options for the Master Chrono Monopusher. The first is a frosted blue barleycorn dial in the same vein as the dials of the Master models I opened the article with. It features rhodium-plated hands and numerals for a crisp overall look. The second option is the one Longines sent us, featuring a silver opaline surface with 5N-rose-gold-plated Arabic numerals. It makes the watch feel warmer overall, and I love that.

On the right side of the case, you will find the knurled crown with the integrated pusher to operate the chronograph. The dial features a two-register layout with a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. Both have concentric graining for extra detail. The center of the dials carries the signature barleycorn pattern encircled by the closed minutes/seconds railroad track. Lastly, the chapter ring features a pulsation scale with the large text “gradué pour 30 pulsations,” adding extra cool to the design.

A caliber exclusively produced for Longines

Regardless of the dial, the Longines Master Chrono Monopusher houses the caliber L799.5. The automatic monopousher chronograph caliber operates at 28,800 vph, has 23 jewels, and offers a 68-hour power reserve. The chronograph mechanism includes a column wheel, and the caliber features a silicon balance spring. ETA produces this new monopusher caliber exclusively for Longines.

More similarities and differences

Finishing the look of the new Master Chrono Monopusher is a leather strap that complements the dial color. For the blue-dial version, Longines chose an anthracite alligator strap. For the opaline-dial variant we had in for review, the brand chose a dark brown alligator strap. Both come with the same folding clasp featuring a push-button release and an integrated toolless micro-adjustment system.

It probably comes as no surprise that I spent the most time with this new Master Chrono Monopusher. Both in appearance and functionality, it is the most intriguing. The Master Chrono Moonphase is impressive with its chronograph and calendar functions, but the Master Chrono Monopusher is the sleek novelty that instantly stands out. While I would have loved to see it with a slightly smaller 39mm case, the watch sits extremely comfortably on the wrist. And though I love the look of the watch with the dark brown strap, I would immediately swap it for a nubuck or suede strap in a lighter brown or gray. It would make this already cool watch look even more spectacular.

Additionally, it was tremendously satisfying to start, stop, and reset the chronograph with the same pusher, accompanied by well-defined clicks and an overall high-quality feel. It makes wearing a chronograph like this so much fun, even if you’re just playing with it rather than measuring an event. And that high-quality fun is exactly what these two new Longines Master Chrono Monopushers offer at €3,800. Whether you choose the opaline-dial version (ref. L2.960.4.78.2) or the blue-dial version (ref. L2.960.4.93.2), they make for a great pair of nice introductions that will land well with chronograph enthusiasts.

Final thoughts on the new Longines Master releases

Overall, the three models we had in for this hands-on introduction give a clear idea of the updates Longines has slowly introduced across its Master offerings. The new dials look great thanks to clever design updates and offer greater refinement through varied finishes and textures. On top of that, I really like that Longines kept its prices reasonable and didn’t raise them with these new introductions. This instantly gives the brand sympathy in a world where prices increase almost monthly rather than yearly. This refreshing new series of Longines Master releases is a pleasant surprise that puts the spotlight on a collection that is steadily improving. As a result, I will keep an eye out for what is next.