Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm, extending its PF range to those with slender wrists and women. This new, gender-neutral diameter was warmly received. The rose gold model, adorned with diamond indexes, even garnered the Women’s Watch Prize at the 2022 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Deservedly, it earned the recognition for its exceptional design and craftsmanship.

This year, the Fleurier-based manufacture synonymous with “quiet luxury” expands the series with two 36mm variations. The first model in two-tone steel and gold marks a debut and adds a fresh aesthetic to the collection. Conversely, the second model hails from last year’s rose gold reference, this time enhanced with a matching deep ruby alligator strap. These watches echo the technical and aesthetic credentials of the original 40mm version. Now with a more compact and versatile form, they remain faithful to the Tonda PF’s refined and minimalistic spirit.

Two metal classes

On that note, although the two-tone model blends 18K rose gold and steel elegantly, it did present Parmigiani with a stylistic challenge. Incorporating a bimetal look without diminishing the collection’s inherent clean style was a delicate act. The brand explains that the solution lies in using the precious metal to magnify certain architectural traits of the case and bracelet.

For instance, the Tonda PF’s finely knurled bezel is recast in 18K rose gold. Also, the integrated bracelet features rose gold links that taper in size as they reach the folding clasp. Those gold vertical links flanking the horizontal central link display a satin-finished surface, contrasting with the polished stainless steel outer links on both sides. Cascading downward from the bezel, the signature teardrop lugs flow smoothly into the bracelet as they transition into its streamlined silhouette.

Dial aesthetics

Distinct from their 40mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor siblings, these more compact 36mm models abandon the date window. However, the two 18K rose gold hands, skeletonized in a delta shape, remain to indicate hours and minutes. They allow the exquisite Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché decoration on the dial to shine unhindered beneath.

The two-tone model showcases a light gray dial adorned with 18K rose gold hand-applied index appliqués. I adore all shades of gray. And this particular lighter hue, which Parmigiani calls “sand gray,” has appeared in several models throughout its collection. In a captivating contrast, the second model presents a dial in a deep ruby color that harmoniously extends to the alligator strap. Its hour markers are hand-applied, rhodium-plated appliques set with twelve FG-VVS baguette-cut diamonds, weighing a total of 0.36 carats.

A sophisticated mechanism

Much like their predecessors, these two Tonda PF Automatic 36mm models house the PF770 automatic winding movement. This manufacture caliber encompasses 179 components and 29 jewels. It operates at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and offers a 60-hour power reserve. The Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges and the beveled edges are visible in all their glory through the sapphire window on the case back. Furthermore, the 22K gold rotor is skeletonized, polished, and sandblasted, adding a final touch of luxury.

The 36mm Tonda PF Automatic models marry technical prowess with aesthetic charm. Despite perhaps looking delicate, their meticulous construction allows a 100m water resistance rating. The new variants also explore the stylistic versatility of the collection. Coupled with a remarkably slim 8.6mm thickness, the 36mm diameter wears well on any slender wrists and enables the watch to slide effortlessly beneath a shirt cuff.

A closing thought

Parmigiani has once again hit a home run. The rose gold model, now available with a matching leather strap, provides a softer alternative to the previous all-metal aesthetic, broadening its appeal. The two-tone version, meanwhile, is a definite pleaser. Its blend of colors and materials exudes pure class and beauty. As always, the contour from the case through the lugs and to the bracelet is simply graceful. As a timeless classic, this watch can be styled easily and promises ample wrist time.

The Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Steel Gold Sand Grey retails for CHF 24,000. On the matching alligator strap, the Rose Gold Deep Ruby version retails for CHF 37,000. For more details, visit Parmigiani’s official website.