The Evolution Of A Freak: Introducing The “Crowned” Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]

The Freak is no ordinary watch. It was nothing short of a watchmaking revolution when it came out, and to this day, it remains an oddity that speaks to ingenuity and originality. The crownless watch was a trendsetter. It opened the door for Nouvelle Horlogerie watchmakers to come onto the world stage and, in the meantime, continued to evolve. One evolutionary model is the Freak X, a version that is a bit “saner” since it has a traditional crown. Now, the most normal of Freaks presents itself in three variations, all with a new movement, case, and uplifted level of finishing. The new Freak [X] has part of its name between brackets. In orthography, brackets enclose information. Maybe UN wanted to emphasize the subcategory this watch belongs to, but honestly, we have no clue. The name is now more complicated than the simplified Freak itself.

How do you pronounce “Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]”? The first three words are fine, though non-French speakers might also find the first two slightly problematic. But what about “[X]”? Do you say, “Between brackets X”? That might sound weird in a conversation — “Look what I just got! It’s the new and updated Ulysse Nardin Freak between brackets X!” The first response to that will probably not be a compliment regarding the watch, but a “Huh?” I get strong Kia Cee’d vibes here, if you know what I mean, and you will if you’re a Top Gear fan. Anyway, besides the initial confusion, the Freak [X] is a significant step forward in the concept’s evolution. It is, in fact, completely reworked and upgraded and, therefore, thoroughly new. I guess the old name didn’t emphasize that enough, but with the brackets, it does.

The incredible tale of the “crowned” Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]

There are a lot of Freaks out there. To help you find the Freak in you, we made a video not too long ago that shows you which version best fits your needs and personality. Of all the Freaks that Ulysse Nardin has produced since the original’s 2001 debut, the ones with the “X” added to the name were meant to open the world of hands-free time-telling to a larger audience. The Freak X does away with the crownless concept and introduces a traditional, easier-on-the-wallet crown to operate the watch. Perhaps my favorite in the line was the 2021 Freak X Razzle Dazzle, with its black-and-white geometric camouflage dial. Ulysse Nardin now presents a trio of “crowned” Freaks that showcase a heavily updated, evolved X concept.

You could say the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X] is a completely new watch. Just look at the comparison between the old and the new model in the picture below. You will notice differences in the case’s alloy, construction, and dimensions, as well as a new movement.

I think it’s safe to say the new Freak [X] is an upgraded Freak X. Everything just got a little better. Applied indexes give the “dial” more depth, high-end decoration elevates the watch’s perception, and a water resistance rating that goes from 50 meters to double that is a confidence-inspiring element.

Three color options

The new Freak [X] comes in three versions — [X Grey], [X Blue], and [X Gold]. The [X Grey] ref. 2323-500-1A/0A (€37,500 / US$41,200 ex. taxes) and [X Blue] ref. 2323-500-3A/7A (€38,600 / US$42,400 ex. taxes) feature a case made of 80% recycled steel. The previous generation had a modular titanium case, whereas the new watches have a monobloc steel one. Yes, lightweight titanium might be a more technical material than steel, but it is also harder to make the non-allergenic alloy look luxurious and lush. Steel is better for adding subtle polished details on the case side to give it a rich wrist presence, especially when paired with contrasting brushed and sandblasted surfaces.

Since we’re on the topic of wrist presence, the [X Gold] ref. 2322-500-2A/1A (€58,200 / US$ 64,000 ex. taxes) is the most exuberant Freak of the three. This rose gold Freak features a matching rose-tone movement bridge serving as the minute hand, as well as indexes with white Super-LumiNova. The coppery gold tone contrasts lavishly with the black sandblasted hour disc.

Different straps and a new bracelet

The Freak [X Grey] is a much more introverted watch with its rhodium-plated bridge and indexes against a gray sandblasted hour disc. The brown leather strap that comes with it closes with a folding clasp, and its tone and structure add a bit of neo-industrial charm. The Freak [X Blue], though, comes standard with a steel bracelet featuring satin-brushed surfaces and polished bevels, creating a sporty, contemporary look.

In case the brown leather or the bracelet doesn’t work for you, UN lets you alter this Freak’s character easily by offering a total of nine strap configurations. The quick-release system makes it easy to switch from leather to rubber, back to a differently colored leather strap (for instance, there’s a very suave burgundy Saffiano leather strap available and a gray rubber ballistic strap that also looks cool), and then to the new bracelet, which features a practical 2mm micro-adjustment system on both sides of the clasp.

A new power source

Inside the Freak [X] beats an entirely new manufacture caliber, the UN-232. It still features the flying carousel, which rotates once per hour to indicate the minutes, while a pointer mounted on a rotating disc tracks the hours. But the movement is slimmer and more mechanically advanced than its predecessor. Its reduced dimensions no longer require a 43mm case, so UN gave the Freak [X] a 41mm housing and added a new sapphire crystal, providing a better view of the movement. The caliber is not just smaller; its architecture is also new. It was redesigned from the ground up with a more modular approach, opening the door to a broader range of artistic hour discs in future iterations.

Perhaps the most significant technical upgrade is the introduction of a DIAMonSIL escapement, which debuts in the Freak [X] line. The DIAMonSIL treatment adds an ultra-hard protective layer to the silicon escapement components, improving durability and efficiency. Considering that the escapement endures hundreds of millions of impacts annually, any reduction in wear is welcome. The movement also features an oversized silicon balance wheel and a silicon hairspring produced by Sigatec, the specialist silicon manufacturer co-founded by Ulysse Nardin.

Another first is the rose gold micro-rotor integrated directly into the movement, which helps keep it slim. The UN-232 is an impressive 216-part, 3Hz, 72-hour-power-reserve caliber that builds on decades of Freak development and incorporates five patents. Those include the DIAMonSIL escapement, a thermocompensated silicon hairspring, egg-shaped hairspring geometry, optimized pivot contact, and a dedicated assembly system for silicon components. In total, the UN-232 draws on the foundation of 35 patents developed throughout the Freak’s history. And as with previous Freak movements, the new high-end caliber is manually assembled from start to finish by a single watchmaker at the UN’s atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

Final thoughts on the Ulysse Nardin Freak [X]

It looks like the Freak [X] is a grown-up version of its predecessor. Especially in the kick-off colorways, it gives you the idea that you’re dealing with a respectable adult. And the specs prove that. The new watch is unmistakably better and more advanced than the previous Freak X. The proportions are better as well. The 41mm diameter and an overall 13.6mm thickness (10.35mm without the box-style crystal) make for an easy-to-wear watch.

2323-500-1A/0A

2323-500-3A/7A

2322-500-2A/1A

The three initial references might not be as daring and dazzling as others you might have seen from Ulysse Nardin, but don’t worry; much freakier versions are on the way. You’d better get ready.

Any thoughts on the new Freak [X]? Please share them in the comments