Finally A New Speedmaster Reduced? Hands-On With The Redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38

Omega is introducing a new Speedmaster 38 collection. For a long time, Omega offered a serious alternative to the famous Moonwatch for those who wanted a smaller automatic version. The Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50 was in production from 1988 to around 2010. In its final years, demand for the 42mm hand-wound Speedmaster Professional was simply higher. Omega also offered an automatic 42mm version in its Broad Arrow collection (with a date at 6 o’clock), powered by the F. Piguet 1285-based caliber 3303.

The redesigned Omega Speedmaster 38 collection

The Speedmaster Reduced collection disappeared entirely. A smaller Speedmaster with a strong focus on women remained in the catalog, though. Then, in 2017, Omega introduced the Speedmaster 38. Though it was officially a unisex collection, probably only the black-dial model found its way to men’s wrists. That was also the only version without oval sub-dials.

The previous Speedmaster 38 with round sub-dials

Given the increasing popularity of the long-discontinued Speedmaster Reduced, Omega must have felt the need for a smaller Speedmaster. Last year’s Speedmaster Olympic Games edition was already an interesting take on the Speedmaster 38 collection, and today, the brand has replaced the former Speedmaster 38 models with seven new references, including one resembling the Speedmaster Reduced 3510.50.

Speedmaster 38 reference 324.30.38.50.01.002

As Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of Omega, puts it: “The Speedmaster 38 mm has always taken its cues from the Moonwatch, while keeping size, color, and simplicity in mind. With this latest update, we’ve taken the Moonwatch inspiration even further, helping to enrich the Speedmaster DNA while still retaining the refined and unique nature that the 38 mm range is known for.”

Speedmaster 38 “Reduced”

The new black-dial Speedmaster 38 shows similarities with the Reduced 3510.50. The other six Speedmaster 38 models use different color schemes and have a date aperture. Two references come with a diamond-set bezel.

All seven references are similar, so I will focus on the black-dial Speedmaster 38, as it comes closest to the Moonwatch and Reduced. Technically, these watches are also similar, except that the black-dial Speedmaster 38 lacks a date aperture and therefore uses a different movement.

Unlike the original Reduced, this new Speedmaster 38 features an applied metal Omega logo. The white baton hands provide a strong contrast against the matte black varnished dial. Because of the relatively small dial, the sub-dials sit toward the outer edge, as with the Reduced. The recessed registers feature concentric circles, and the tachymeter scale inlay is aluminum. Notably, the bezel design is much simpler than that of the previous Speedmaster 38. Now, it truly resembles the Moonwatch’s bezel.

Calibers 3332 and 3330

This no-date black-dial Speedmaster 38 houses the Omega caliber 3332, while the other six models use caliber 3330. These chronograph movements feature Omega’s Co-Axial escapement and are COSC-certified chronometers. They also both run at 28,800 vibrations per hour and have a 52-hour power reserve. Although not visible, the rhodium-plated movements have been decorated with Côtes de Genève finishing on the rotor and bridges. On the rotor, the Omega logo and writing have been filled with red.

The modern Speedmaster bracelet

The bracelet is similar to the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch bracelet, often dubbed “Nixon” because it originated from the gold Speedmaster BA145.022 offered to President Nixon in 1969, just after the Moon landing. The bracelet has a brushed finish, except for the two rows of smaller polished links. Except for the black-dial version and the white-dial model with a blue bezel, all bracelets have a polished center link.

The bracelet also has a “comfort release” adjustment system. This patented mechanism has two positions and offers a 2.3mm total extension. The bracelet itself tapers from 18mm at the case to 15mm at the clasp.

Speedmaster 38 dimensions

All Speedmaster 38 models have a 38mm case diameter, a 44.96mm lug-to-lug, and a 14.75mm profile. And something that I think most of you will love to hear is that this watch has a 100m water resistance rating. What differs among some of the models is the case finishing. The case body of the black-dial Speedmaster 38, for example, is brushed with polished bevels.

So is the one we have here with the gray aluminum bezel. The white-dial model with a blue bezel, though, has a fully polished case body.

All variants have a Dot Over Ninety bezel, of course. The black-dial Speedmaster 38 weighs approximately 137 grams, while the other models are either slightly below or slightly above (with gold elements).

As noted above, the Speedmaster 38’s case back doesn’t show the movement. Instead, the solid steel screw-in case back features Omega’s famous hippocampus medallion in bas-relief and a polished finish. Below the hippocampus is the Omega logo, and above it, you’ll find the “Speedmaster” wording.

Omega Speedmaster 38 324.30.38.50.01.002

The Speedmaster 38 on the wrist

Of the seven new Speedmaster 38 references, I prefer the “Reduced” variant, with its black dial and white baton hands. It’s the purest version in this new collection. Of course, I am biased, as I have a collection of Moonwatches.

Omega Speedmaster 38 324.30.38.50.02.003

My next pick would be the model with a silvery opaline dial, Sedna Gold hour markers, and a gray aluminum bezel insert. It’s a chic take on the new Speedmaster 38 and will go with anything.

Omega Speedmaster 38 324.30.38.50.02.003

The new Speedmaster 38 should fit smaller wrists comfortably. On my 18cm wrist, I find it slightly small, so I prefer the 42mm Moonwatch or the 39.7mm Speedmaster Calibre 321 and First Omega in Space. The differences are notable, especially due to the longer lugs. The bezel diameters of the Moonwatch, Calibre 321, and First Omega in Space are the same, giving these watches a 40mm appearance. By contrast, the Speedmaster 38 has a roughly 37mm bezel diameter, making it wear noticeably smaller.

Some of my colleagues at the Fratello office have smaller wrists, so the new Speedmaster 38 watches suit them better.

Omega Speedmaster 38 324.30.38.50.01.002

Pricing and availability

The black-dial Speedmaster 38 (reference 324.30.38.50.01.002) retails for €6,400 (inc. VAT), US$6,500 (ex. sales tax), or CHF 5,100 (ex. VAT). The white-dial, blue-bezel model (reference 324.30.38.50.04.001) costs €7,000 (inc. VAT), US$7,100 (ex. sales tax), or CHF 5,500 (ex. VAT). The gray-bezel model (reference 324.30.38.50.02.003) sells for €6,600 (inc. VAT), US$6,700 (ex. sales tax), or CHF 5,200 (ex. VAT).

Not included in this article are the new “cappuccino” version with a steel and Sedna Gold case (reference 324.20.38.50.02.002, €11,500), the green-bezel version with a steel and Moonshine Gold case (reference 324.20.38.50.02.001, €11,500), and the two full-steel references with diamond-set bezels. Reference 324.15.38.50.03.001 (€12,100) has an ice-blue dial, and reference 324.15.38.50.05.001 (€12,900) comes with a mother-of-pearl dial.

The first deliveries to Omega boutiques are expected this week. For more information, visit the official Omega website.