Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm
The Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm is a clear example of watch evolution. It’s proof that progress is less about changing the design than refining what is already there. The 39mm case, its proportions, design, and overall presence on the wrist remain unchanged. Why change a winning “team” when the 39mm Essence is the brand’s best seller? Instead, Formex has brought three technical and ergonomic updates, all of which have already appeared elsewhere in the Essence family. Meet the next generation, which looks to be even more likable than the previous one.
Where to begin? Formex resisted the urge to change everything after deciding the Essence 39 COSC needed an upgrade. So the brand didn’t rework the case. You still get the spring-loaded “case within a case” construction. Formex didn’t mess with its proportions either. Instead, the brand turned its attention to the crown, the bracelet, and the movement.
The updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm
The most significant update lies inside the untouched case, which still has a 39mm diameter, 45.5mm lug-to-lug, and 10.5mm profile. Inside this 100m-water-resistant watch beats a new movement, the latest-generation Sellita SW200-2 Power+ COSC, introduced in 2026.
It retains the caliber’s familiar 4Hz frequency, or 28,800 vibrations per hour, but increases the power reserve to 65 hours. It’s a huge improvement over the 38-hour power reserve of the COSC-certified Sellita SW200-1 inside the previous generation.
The case was left untouched, but the crown wasn’t. The previous generation featured a push-pull crown with a built-in safety mechanism in the crown stem. It worked because the watch was water-resistant to 100 meters. The new watch has the same rating, but now it features a screw-down crown. The result is the same, but the new crown offers the wearer more security.
Wear it while adjusting it
Formex has also addressed something far more mundane, but arguably more noticeable in daily use: the clasp. The butterfly clasp not only offers the solid feel we are now accustomed to with Formex, but also provides tool-free micro-adjustment. It does so in 3mm increments, with up to 6mm of adjustment available directly on the wrist. And that is a clever feature. There is no need to open the clasp or reach for a tool. The clasp allows you to fine-tune the fit as your wrist dimensions change throughout the day.
We received the Alpine White version of the updated Essence at Fratello HQ, but there is also a familiar blue-dial version and a variant with a Radiant Bronze dial. The crisp, white-dial version we had the pleasure of reviewing features contrasting blued hands and applied indexes. You might recognize the dial, as it’s also in watches from the Reef collection. Despite the familiarity, the Essence Automatic COSC 39mm is a standalone watch with a distinct personality. The familiar look creates recognizability, which is something a brand like Formex needs to grow and develop.
Look and, most of all, feel
A watch’s look and feel are crucial for how it’s experienced. When you look at the new Essence 39mm, you won’t notice a change. Formex deemed the look on-point, so no further action was necessary. But when feeling the watch, there’s a notable difference between the previous and new generations. No, you won’t feel the new movement, but if you leave the watch on your nightstand over the weekend, you will find it still running, whereas the previous watch’s movement would need to be brought back to life. In the latter case, you would also be confronted with a push-pull crown instead of the new screw-in one.
The biggest difference you will feel is the bracelet. The clasp, which allows a 3–6mm adjustment directly on the wrist, is a noticeable and appreciated evolutionary step. It’s a small step for a watch but a big one for a watch brand trying to find its place in a very competitive market segment. Upgraded movements and bracelets are a good way of getting on people’s watch radars.
Formex was right to leave the Essence 39mm’s appearance intact while enhancing its character. It now performs and wears better, with a familiar look that Formex already knows works.
The updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm (ref. 0339.1.6613) costs €1,680 / US$1,850 / CHF 1,470 on a nylon, leather, or rubber strap with a deployant clasp. On the new and improved stainless steel bracelet, the watch retails for €1,790 / US$1,980 / CHF 1,570. Now, let us know what you think of the updates to this Formex favorite in the comments.
