I will save my sentiments about Vacheron Constantin this year compared to last year to our daily recap later on today. Now it is time to talk about a watch that isn’t perhaps the most accessible (read: affordable) watch in the world at 95.000 Euro, but it did make my horological heart tick faster. I am talking about the new full gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin reference 4300V/120R-B064.
Gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Completely in line with the gold fever I am suffering for a while now, this watch is – to me – one of the coolest pieces I have seen at the SIHH so far. This Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin combines a number of interesting triggers for me.
First of all, it is the Overseas design, which really speaks to me. I have a soft spot for Genta’s Royal Oak and Nautilus, but also happen to like the Overseas design that is based on the original Vacheron Constantin ‘222’ design by Hysek in the 1970s. You could say these designers followed each other on the foot, but I also feel it might have been the ‘right time’ for these type of designs with integrated bracelets. As you know, the ‘222’ model, later on, became known as the Overseas. Different than the Royal Oak 15202 and Nautilus 5711/1A, there doesn’t seem to be a clear ‘ur’ model of the Overseas that people can use as the reference for these watches. If there is any, it would be the Ultra-Thin one with 1120 movement, but I am not sure Vacheron Constantin looks at it this way.
Besides the design, it is the perpetual calendar that I truly adore. I don’t care much for tourbillons, although I admire the hand-work that goes into them of course. But a perpetual calendar (again) speaks to my imagination when it comes to watchmaking. A useful complication, that is able to show you the correct day, date, month, leap year and moon phases all at once. And one that runs without a necessary correction for at least decades from now.
And yes, this watch is in full gold and comes on a gold bracelet. There are also references of this Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin available on a leather strap or rubber strap m(at 77.000,= Euro), but for me, this watch just made a huge impression with this red gold Overseas bracelet.
The case of the gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin is 41.5mm and it is about 8.1mm thick, or tin. The very thin caliber 1120 QP movement is the reason why, of course. The sapphire caseback reveals the movement with its 22-carat gold rotor.
Caliber 1120 QP
The movement inside this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar is their caliber 1120 QP/1. It consists of 276 movement parts and measures only 4.05mm in thickness. This calendar will run flawlessly till the year 2100 (leap year) before it will need an adjustment. It has a 40 hours power-reserve and ticks at 19,800vph. It also bears the Hallmark of Geneva. This movement has been developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin. As you can see on the images above, the functions of this movement are the indication of the: hours, minutes, day, date, month, leap year and the moon phases.
More information via Vacheron Constantin online.