Mechanical watches were once essential tools for pilots, divers, scientists, race car drivers, etc. You’ve probably seen the advertisements in old National Geographic magazines, showing spelunkers proudly wearing their Rolex Explorers or a pilot checking his Breitling Navitimer, using it to calculate fuel consumption. For many years (decades) now, this has been handled digitally, as that’s quicker and perhaps more reliable and precise. Yet, we still call certain timepieces “tool watches.” Prime examples are diving and aviation watches that often cost more than an average monthly salary (or two).

As smartwatches from Apple, Samsung, and other purpose-driven brands like Suunto and Garmin are widely available for less than €500, is there a “professional” need for a mechanical watch? In this episode of Fratello Talks, Thomas, Timo, and RJ are discussing whether a tool watch over €500 is just an accessory, a luxury item, or something more. Before getting into the discussion, though, it’s time to see what the guys have on their wrists.

tool watches — RZE Resolute Type A pocket shot

Wrist check

Thomas is rocking the RZE Resolute Type A (read his hands-on review here). Coincidentally, this is a US$499 (roughly €430) timepiece that we could indeed classify as a tool watch. The Type A is a very readable 39.5mm Grade 2 titanium pilot’s watch offering 100m water resistance. What more do you need?

Cartier Santos-Dumont "Deux Ors" on wrist

On Timo’s wrist, you’ll see a watch that was perhaps the first tool wristwatch ever, a Cartier Santos-Dumont. This particular model is an 18K gold “Deux Ors” version (the bezel is white gold, while the case is yellow gold) from 1981. Inside is an ultra-thin F. Piguet hand-wound caliber 21.

Sinn 103 St Ty Hd on wrist, arms crossed

Another pilot’s watch can be found on RJ’s wrist this week. It’s the Sinn 103 St Ty Hd he purchased during his meeting with Sinn at Watches and Wonders this year. This model is based on the vintage Sinn 103 C and features an acrylic crystal and a hand-wound chronograph (Sellita SW510 M) movement.

tool watches — second-gen Apple Watch SE

Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500

Is there still a need for a (mechanical) tool watch? Digital devices took over the role from mechanical watches a long time ago. If you want a device or watch on your wrist to help you with flying, running, diving, golfing, etc., there are many options available for less than €500. These days, a mechanical wristwatch, like the ones mentioned above, is an accessory or perhaps even jewelry. Do you agree with this? In this podcast, we do mention the Omega Speedmaster X-33, which astronauts use for very specific tasks, and a mechanical watch as a backup to a diving computer, for example.

We’d like to know if you think this statement is a bit bold (it’s at least a mood killer, for sure) or if you agree that any watch over €500 (or dollars/pounds/Swiss francs) is just luxury. Let us know in the comments below.