Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.
Zenith’s caliber 135 continues its revival within the brand’s modern lineup with a new version. After the restored vintage-powered editions from 2022 and the following G.F.J. releases in 2025 and 2026, the brand now adds a special, limited collaboration with Naoya Hida to the collection.
This time, the focus shifts toward Japanese independent watchmaking. The new double-signed collaboration with Naoya Hida & Co. is a first for Zenith in modern times. It isn’t the last, though, as Zenith declares more double-signed collabs will follow.
The latest version of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135
The new Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. follows the G.F.J. template Zenith introduced for its 160th anniversary. The watch uses the modern re-engineered caliber 135 rather than restored vintage movements, but the historical connection is clear as day. Zenith describes the caliber as the most awarded movement from the observatory chronometer era, and the brand has leaned heavily into that legacy over the past few years. It’s a clever move, confirming Zenith movement manufacturing goes beyond the El Primero.
The 2022 edition
In 2022, Zenith released an ultra-limited series using 10 restored 135-O competition movements from the 1950s. Kari Voutilainen handled the restoration work on those movements. This new release follows a different route. This time, Zenith hands the functioning watch to a different indie watchmaker, Naoya Hida, for a full aesthetic treatment.
The resulting dial adopts many of the restrained details and styling associated with Naoya Hida’s NH Type 2A. The overall layout stays clean and formal, with a strong mid-century feel that suits the G.F.J. Calibre 135 to a tee. The double-signed format also fits the theme. Vintage collectors tend to love retailer-signed and co-signed watches because they capture a specific moment in watchmaking history. Zenith is clearly trying to tap into that atmosphere here, which I can only applaud.
Specifications of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.
The watch features a 39.15mm platinum case with a 10.5mm thickness and a 45.75mm lug-to-lug measurement. Those proportions feel sensible for this style of watch, although it could perhaps have been a hair smaller. Water resistance is rated at 5 atm, but this is hardly relevant for a watch of this style. The solid silver dial features hand-engraved text and markers filled with blue lacquer. Rotating above it are CNC-machined and hand-polished hour and minute hands in white gold, while the small seconds hand uses heat-blued steel.
Inside ticks the aforementioned manually wound caliber 135, beating at 18,000 vph with a 72-hour power reserve. Zenith equips the movement with a large variable-inertia balance wheel, a Breguet overcoil, and a stop-seconds mechanism. The movement also features spring-mounted jewel settings for the balance staff and Zenith’s characteristic double-arrow regulator. Finishing includes broad Geneva stripes, hand chamfering, and a dark ruthenium treatment with gold-colored markings. Zenith regulates its caliber 135 to ±2 seconds per day, and it also carries COSC chronometer certification. Crucially, the caliber still looks distinctly mid-century.
Zenith will deliver the watch with three straps, all tied to Japanese craftsmanship. The first uses Himeji Kurozan leather with repeated urushi (lacquer) applications. The second comes in wagyu leather produced by Kyoto Leather craftsmen. The third strap uses indigo Japanese non-stretch denim from Kaihara Denim in Hiroshima. A platinum pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials completes the package. Zenith limits the watch to 10 pieces and prices it at €65,900 / US$75,000 / £57,400 / CHF 58,900.
Naoya Hida
Naoya Hida and Zenith
Naoya Hida founded his brand in 2018, focusing on watches inspired by the so-called golden age of mechanical watchmaking from the 1930s through the 1960s. The brand combines traditional handcraft with modern manufacturing technology, but the emphasis always stays on proportion, typography, finishing, and subtle detail rather than visual spectacle. I, for one, absolutely adore the Naoya Hida aesthetic and design language.
According to Zenith, Hida had admired the caliber 135 since the 1990s, giving the project significance for the Japanese indie house. The collab makes a ton of sense, as Hida embodies the design language of the era of this movement better than most. The result feels closer to a carefully studied vintage watch than a contemporary collaboration watch trying to attract attention. Again, perhaps the only giveaway is the watch’s diameter.
The dial work deserves most of the attention here. All inscriptions, including both brand signatures, are manually engraved by master engraver Keisuke Kano before being filled with blue urushi. That combination creates far more depth than standard printed text. The restrained layout helps as well. Nothing feels oversized or eager to stand out; all is in perfect visual harmony and hierarchy.
Closing thoughts
As mentioned above, I am a big fan of Naoya Hida. Mid-century-inspired watches aren’t rare by any means. Hida, however, stands out for his controlled, fine touch. His creations always feel rooted in history without ever appearing dramatic or sentimental.
If anything, this sets a very high bar for the future co-signed watches Zenith announces here. I look forward to seeing what they come up with next!
What do you think of the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed With Naoya Hida & Co.? Let us know in the comments section below.
