Heads Up For A Japanese History Lesson: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy

After launching timepieces inspired by the fantastic Arthurian mythology, Roger Dubuis thinks it’s time for a lesson on Japanese history. The new Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy takes inspiration from the rise of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a turning point in Japanese history. The Geneva-based brand uses its high-watchmaking know-how and métiers d’art to create 28 timepieces that represent the cultural symbols of that time — Edo Castle and 12 samurai commanders, depicted by their kabuto (helmets) and kamon (crests). Pay attention; you might learn something through a watch.

For those unfamiliar with Japanese history and folks who didn’t watch the highly acclaimed and successful television drama Shōgun, Roger Dubuis has something to teach you. The brand from Geneva takes you to 17th-century Edo, modern-day Tokyo. It starts with Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543–1616) from the House of Minamoto. He was a samurai who won the decisive Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. After his victory, he became shogun, or supreme military dictator in Western terms, and Japan entered more than 250 years of relative peace and stability. Ieyasu ruled from Edo and set in motion a remarkable transformation. The country evolved from a collection of warring feudal domains into a tightly governed nation with a thriving economy, flourishing culture, and a growing appreciation for craftsmanship. This period laid the foundations for many of the traditions and artisanal practices that continue to define Japan today. Now, on to the watch.

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy

Since 2013, Roger Dubuis has created around a dozen artful collectible limited-edition watches featuring miniature knights on the dial. Now, instead of using 12 Arthurian knights as hour markers, RD explores Japanese culture, using the elaborate helmets and crests of 17th-century Japanese samurai, the elite military nobility and professional warrior class of pre-industrial Japan. The Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy (€413,500 / US$385,500 / CHF 339,500, ex. taxes) is a 28-piece limited edition and, as you would expect, an exuberant, highly detailed tour de force with no equal in the watchmaking world.

This watch features Edo Castle, three-dimensional and set in pink gold, black PVD, and blue CVD, at the center of the dial as the symbolic heart of a reformed society. The deep indigo color is a nod to the traditional dye long associated with samurai garments and Japanese craftsmanship. Around it is a circle symbolizing solidarity, the foundation of lasting harmony.

And on the circle, we find the 12 distinct kabuto. We’re not going to introduce all 12 of them, but at 12 o’clock sits Tokugawa Ieyasu, which makes sense. His kabuto features a distinctive fern crest, symbolizing success, resilience, and longevity. Surrounding Ieyasu are the famed Four Heavenly Kings of the Tokugawa (Tokugawa-shitennō), his most trusted generals. At 1 o’clock is Honda Tadakatsu, celebrated for his unwavering loyalty and battlefield prowess. His antlered helmet is among the most recognizable in samurai history, with the deer antlers symbolizing divine protection.

Emblems and symbols

Moving to 2 o’clock, Sakai Tadatsugu represents wisdom and steady leadership. He was a key figure in establishing the Tokugawa government. His kabuto has a sword-shaped crest, symbolizing righteousness and the triumph of good over evil. And who do we have at 4 o’clock? Here sits Sakakibara Yasumasa, a commander admired for his sound judgment and tactical mind. And his sword-adorned helmet reflects martial virtue and symbolizes the ability to cut through deception in pursuit of truth. Completing the quartet at 9 o’clock is Ii Naomasa, one of the era’s most accomplished commanders and diplomats. His striking kabuto has become an enduring emblem of courage and fearless leadership.

The power within

At this point, I probably need to remind you (and maybe myself) that this latest Roger Dubuis creation is a watch, not a static piece of wearable artisanal excellence. It’s an objet d’art with a function — telling time. The 45 × 16.87mm pink gold watch with a blue enamel ring framing the crown houses the in-house automatic RD821 caliber. Beyond delivering 48 hours of power reserve, it’s decorated with no fewer than 14 finishing techniques. It bears the Poinçon de Genève, which, like the purely decorative elements on the Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy (RDDBEX1139), underlines the level of craftsmanship expected from RD.

The see-through case back offers a view of the movement and the striking blue rotor. It also features the crests of all 12 generals, laser-engraved into a blue-coated pink gold ring. As further proof that this is not only a wearable piece of artisanal excellence, the Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy comes on a blue calfskin strap featuring stitched segments inspired by traditional samurai armor.

And so ends the history lesson. Wait up! There will be a test on all samurai represented in the Roger Dubuis Excalibur The Kabuto Legacy on Thursday. Class dismissed.