Fratello’s Top 5 Iconic Watches From The 1980s

Another Friday, another list. After finding alternatives to some of the industry’s biggest icons over the past few months, we decided to switch things up. In the past week, some of the Fratello team members had a nice discussion about forgotten watches from the 1980s, so we thought, “Why not make that into a nice Top 5 for this Friday?” As some of us were born in the late ’70s and early ’80s, we grew up during the decade of extravagance. Is that evident in the five watches we picked? We’ll see.

Knowing that the 1980s motto was “more is more” tells you a lot about the style of that time. With bold colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and unapologetic self-expression, the decade was extravagant and over the top. There was also a lot going on in terms of style and culture. When I think of the 1980s, I often think of the world created in the famous Bret Easton Ellis novels, like The Informers and American Psycho, and John Hughes movies, like The Breakfast Club and Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. The Easton Ellis books also touch upon luxury style and culture. As some of you will know, in the American Psycho novel (not the movie!), Patrick Bateman wears a two-tone Rolex Datejust. Is that one of the watches on our list? Let’s find out what our five picks from the 1980s are!

Omega Constellation Manhattan

Our first pick for this list would always be the first-generation Omega Constellation Manhattan. Robert-Jan and I have a healthy obsession with the original Constellation Manhattan that Omega introduced in 1982. We own multiple models from that first series and continue to chase the versions we do not yet own. Our love for the Constellation Manhattan is deeply rooted in the design and construction of the watch. As I explained in this in-depth article about it, I used to think the 1980s were horrible in terms of style and culture. But as a child of the late ’70s who grew up in the ’80s, it’s hard to deny the influence that the decade’s style had on me.

Image: Vintage Masters

Omega introduced the Constellation Manhattan as its flagship series, and it immediately stood out. First, its design, with four claws split between the left and right sides of the case, looks like nothing else. On top of that, the case measures just under 33mm across, which seems rather small for a men’s watch. But thanks to the smoothly flowing bracelet, the Constellation Manhattan wears bigger than its actual size might indicate. The design was created by young Omega designer Carol Didisheim, while the idea for the claws came from Pierre-Andre Aellen, the brand’s product director at the time.

Image: Zeitauktion

The unique design serves a bigger purpose

Aellen came up with the idea during a visit to New York, where he saw such claws used for an unframed bathroom mirror at the hotel he stayed at. They were instrumental in making the unique printing-under-glass technique possible. The black ring with hour markers is printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal that is held in place by the four claws. Consequently, the ingenious construction is functional first and foremost, while also serving as a signature stylistic element. On top of that, it allowed Omega to give the watch an ultra-slim 6.5mm profile. Omega used this construction only for the first-generation Constellation Manhattan. After that, the claws became strictly decorative.

Inside the case, Omega equipped the first series with its quartz caliber 1422. After only one year, this movement was replaced by the new caliber 1431. This was the world’s first quartz movement featuring a servo-controlled stepping motor, making the watch’s features easier to use and helping conserve battery power. In 1984, Omega also added a mechanical version powered by caliber 1111 to the lineup. That watch was only in production for two years and, consequently, is now very hard to find.

Rising prices for the Omega Constellation Manhattan

In the watch’s short production span, Omega created several variations of the Constellation Manhattan. The first were two steel models with either a champagne or black dial. The latter was worn by actor Robert Wagner in the funny Bond-style ads for the watch. The two-tone models were available with both a gold and a black dial. Lastly, Omega produced a full-gold model with a gold dial for some proper ’80s over-the-top style. Prices for the original Constellation Manhattan have crept up over time. You will be lucky to find one in good condition under €1,000. For the steel or two-tone quartz models in great condition, prices quickly reach €1,500. What you will get in return is not just one of the icons of the 1980s but also a watch designed and constructed to be unlike anything else.

Image: Bulang & Sons

Rolex Datejust ref. 16013

If the first pick was easy, the second pick was not much harder. Sure, the Rolex Datejust ref. 16013 debuted in 1977, making it technically a watch from the ’70s. As we all know, though, the two-tone Datejust with a fluted bezel on a Jubilee bracelet was a symbol of both the ’70s and the ’80s. The watch was part of the five-digit ref. 16xxx generation that abandoned the famous pie-pan dials. While the flat dials lacked the depth of those used for the four-digit Datejust, Rolex introduced some extravagant dial options for the ref. 16013.

Image: Bulang & Sons

On top of that, the brand installed the then-new caliber 3035, which featured a quick-set date and an increased 28,800vph frequency, up from the 19,800vph beat rate of the caliber 1575 that powered the four-digit Datejusts. Rolex used the caliber from 1977 to 1988 across a variety of models, including the Datejust, Submariner, and Sea-Dweller. In 1988, the legendary caliber 3135 replaced it. There is no going wrong with a two-tone Datejust ref. 16013. Regardless of the dial that you prefer, the watch has an abundance of that over-the-top ’70s/’80s swagger.

TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25706C “Ayrton Senna”

Another instantly recognizable silhouette from the 1980s is the TAG Heuer S/el series. We picked the iconic S/el ref. S25706C “Ayrton Senna” worn by the legendary Formula 1 driver in the early 1990s. But the S/el series debuted in 1987 as the brand’s top-of-the-line collection. Because of this, its roots are firmly planted in the 1980s, making it a perfect third entry for this list. The line, named “Sports Elegance,” was designed by Eddie Schopfer as a series one could wear both while diving and at the dinner table.

Image courtesy of Calibre 11

The standout feature of the design was, without a doubt, the bracelet. To this day, it is one of the most remarkable bracelet designs ever created. It is chunky and weird, but apparently, it’s also super comfortable. Ayrton Senna became a TAG Heuer brand ambassador when he joined McLaren in 1988. He chose to wear the S/el Digital Quartz 1/100th Chronograph ref. S25706C on a leather strap. As you can see in the pictures, the standout end link perfectly integrates into the case design. On top of that, it is the definitive element that most people will remember the watch by.

Ayrton Senna’s watch of choice

Senna’s watch had a 39mm two-tone case with gold end links on a brown leather strap. The eggshell-colored dial helps tone down the loud aesthetic. On top of that, plenty is going on with an ana-digi dial, which features three analog sub-dials and two digital displays on the lower half of the dial.

Add that to the extravagant looks, and you get an unforgettable watch. TAG Heuer produced this reference until 1998. During its entire 11-year production run, the design remained unchanged. But despite it having been in production for more than a decade, the TAG Heuer S/el ref. S25706C is not easy to find. On top of that, prices have gone up rather drastically and now start at roughly €3,000.

Image: Fully Wound

Breitling Chronomat ref. 81950

Another 1980s icon we can’t leave off this list is the legendary Breitling Chronomat, introduced in 1983. It marked Breitling’s renewed focus on mechanical watches under the leadership of Ernest Schneider, who bought the company from Willy Breitling in 1979. As a pilot himself, Schneider focused heavily on the brand’s aviation heritage. That’s why the first new Chronomat featuring the signature rider tabs was the Breitling Chronomat “Frecce Tricolore,” created for the Italian Air Force aerobatics team. A year later, Breitling followed up that release with the Breitling Chronomat ref. 81950 that was available to the general public.

Image: Fully Wound

The watch features a 39mm case available in steel or a combination of steel and gold. In the years after, the brand also added a version with a full-gold bezel. On top of that, there were several dial options. The case features a rotating timing bezel with the four rider tabs, and the characteristic fluted crown and pushers are a nod to early aviation watches. The dial features the signature Valjoux 7750 layout, as well as a 100ths scale and a tachymeter on the rehaut. As you can see, the three sub-dials are close to the dial’s edge, which creates a strange overall design.

Image: Fully Wound

Inside the watch, unsurprisingly, lies the Valjoux 7750. This automatic chronograph caliber operates at 28,800 vph and offers a 48-hour power reserve. Finishing the look of the Chronomat ref. 81950 is the great Rouleaux bracelet with links that look like little bullets. This bracelet inspired the one that Breitling uses for its current Chronomat collection. I love the bracelet’s look and think it makes the watch unforgettable. But if you’re not a fan, this Chronomat looks equally good on a leather strap. While the Chronomat name dates back to the 1940s as a predecessor of the Navitimer, I associate it with this 1980s model that marked the modern era of this iconic aviation chronograph. Depending on your color preferences, you can pick one of these classics up for between €3k and €4k.

Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph

Our last pick for this list is the brilliant Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph. It’s another one of those 1980s watches that stands out immediately. Robert-Jan owns the watch you see in the pictures, and it has become one that most of us at Fratello love for its distinct look.

Ebel first introduced the Sport Classic Chronograph in 1982, and it became super popular after Don Johnson made it his watch of choice in Miami Vice. Unlike Robert-Jan’s two-tone version, Johnson wore the full-gold version. On top of that, Ebel also released a stainless steel version with a white gold bezel, as RJ explained in his article about the Sport Classic Chronograph.

The watch’s design is a wonderfully weird combination of elements. It all starts with the 38 × 42 × 11mm stainless steel case with its gold bezel and bezel screws. Inside it lies a white dial with black Roman numerals and gold details. They add to the watch’s extravagant style. Another defining element is the signature wave bracelet with a graceful 20–15mm taper to the clasp. This is one of those bracelets that watch fans know and love.

Inside the case, Ebel initially equipped the watches with the Zenith 3019 PHC chronograph caliber. The brand then switched to the updated El Primero 40.0 in 1986 and later to the El Primero 400. It is a great movement for an iconic chronograph that has become one of the most recognizable watches from the 1980s. Prices for one of these watches start at roughly €2.5k and can reach €5 for an example in great condition.

Final thoughts on the top five iconic watches from the 1980s

There you have it — five veritable time-telling icons from the 1980s. These watches helped define the style and status of the watch industry at a time when mechanical watches started making a return after the heavy hits of the quartz revolution. But there are undoubtedly more great options, so I want to turn the question over to you. Which of these five options do you like the best, or would you go for a different watch altogether? Let us know in the comments section, and we’ll be back next week with another list!