Ace Jewelers


Photo Essay: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

It seems to be Jaeger-LeCoultre month here – which of course isn’t at a bad thing at all! I recently had the opportunity to photograph the uncommon JLC Master Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition (what a long name). It differs from the standard edition in a) it’s very limited production run; b) the yellow accents on the compressor crowns and strap; c) the logo printing on the underside of the sapphire crystal; d) the most obvious part, the anthracite case.

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

As usual, all images may be clicked on for larger versions.

The movement is the same as the regular model, subject to the 1000 hour Master Control test and equipped with both automatic winding and a loud and very functional alarm. Being a diver, it also has a functional 200m depth rating and locking compressor crowns to maintain water resistance; I’m just not sure how many submersions that nice leather strap will tolerate, though. There’s also plenty of luminous material and easily readable hands, much like its regular production cousin.

Enough from me, enjoy the images. MT

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition
With a distant relative

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Compressor Navy Seals Alarm Beverly Hills Boutique Edition



Jaquet Droz Event In Amsterdam

Last week, Jaquet Droz (part of the Swatch Group) organized an event in the Boutique Tourbillon Amsterdam. Normally, the Boutique Tourbillon hosts a number of brands from the Swatch Group, but this evening it was all about Jaquet Droz. Hosts of the evening were Boutique Tourbillon manager Nathalie Lefrandt and Jaquet Droz’s brand manager Hessel Ruijgh.

Jaquet Droz Event In Amsterdam

Supported by Jaquet Droz Switzerland and a number of staff personnel, the Boutique Tourbillon had a lot of Jaquet Droz timepieces to show that evening. Together with Gerard Nijenbrinks (Horlogenieuws.nl) and Frank Geelen (Monochrome.nl) I attended the event and was simply stunned by all the beautiful Jaquet Droz timepieces. After a small introduction and a drink, we had a marvelous diner, prepared and presented by Van Dam.

Jaquet Droz Event In Amsterdam

During diner, we had an opportunity to see Jaquet Droz timepiece up close and discuss them with the other guests of the evening. My personal favorite is the Grande Seconde in white gold, a clean dial capturing the essence of the brand in my opinion. Also present were the sporty looking SW models by Jaquet Droz, but I am not sure whether I like them (or not). Perhaps I think of Jaquet Droz as a classic looking dress watch – with a twist – in the first place, instead of a sports watch.

Anyway, it was a great evening and a great way to put Jaquet Droz on the horological map in The Netherlands. Kudos to the Boutique Tourbillon and Jaquet Droz staff for hosting this event.

Gerard took his camera with him and made some great photos (as above) during the evening, which you can view here.



Doc, Doc, Doc, Doc, Doctor Beat – The Rythm Of The One Hertz Timepiece

World’s first independent deadbeat seconds series wristwatch was introduced in June last year, by Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces. This complication, also known as secondes morte, has been used in pocket watches since the 19th century. Instead of a sweeping second hand, the second hand advances in full steps of one second. According to Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces, this was a very respected complication until the 1980s (at the time of Gloria Estefan’s Dr. Beat song, as quoted in the title of this post).

I can imagine that manufacturers of mechanical timepieces did not want to incorporate the deadbeat seconds complication in their watches, to distinguish their watches from quartz watches. This small independent watchmaking company Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces, located in the east part of The Netherlands, ended this denial of a great complication with their One Hertz time piece.

Doc, Doc, Doc, Doc, Doctor Beat   The Rythm Of The One Hertz Timepiece

The in-house G-02 movement is something very special, as the deadbeat seconds complication is very difficult to accomplish without a constant force device. Watchmakers Tim and Bart Grönefeld came up with the idea of a second gear train construction with its own power supply. Friction of the mechanism has to be minimal to guarantee perfect operation of the One Hertz (1 cycle per second) second hand. A separate mainspring for the deadbeat seconds will make sure that friction is kept to an absolute minimum.

Both mainspring barrels are hand wound and will wind simultaneously by operating the crown. As you can see on the picture above, there is an S-W indicator at 3 o’clock. By pushing the crown, the owner of the watch will select either “set” or “wind” and the indicator will switch from S to W or vice-versa. So, no crown-pulling here!

The indicator at the top of the large sub dial displaying the deadbeat seconds, is a power reserve indicator. The G-02 movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.

The G-02 movement consists of 254 parts, has two mainspring barrels, a power and set indicator, a Variable Inertia Balance wheel and – of course – the deadbeat seconds complication. A computer aided design drawing of the movement is shown below:

Doc, Doc, Doc, Doc, Doctor Beat   The Rythm Of The One Hertz Timepiece

The One Hertz timepiece has a diameter of 43mm and a height of 12.5mm. Both sides of the watch have been fitted with a sapphire crystal, where the top crystal is slightly domed. The Grönefeld logo and watch model are engraved in name plates, which are screwed-down on the dial. This stainless steel watch is limited to 12 pieces only, referring to 1912, the year when Johan Grönefeld (grandfather of Tim and Bart Grönefeld) began his carreer as a watchmaker in Oldenzaal.

The price tag of this stunning timepiece is € 35.105,- (including 19% Dutch VAT).

Besides the One Hertz, Grönefeld Exclusive Timepieces introduced their GTM-06 in 2008. A superb timepiece with a tourbillon and minute repeater complication, available in gold and platinum. December last year, Tim and Bart Grönefeld also opened their boutique of independent watchmakers. A luxury boutique in the center of the picturesque Oldenzaal in the east part of The Netherlands (and I write this with pride, as my own roots are there as well), where Tim and Bart are the authorized resellers of timepieces of other independent watchmakers. Timepieces by Kees Engelbarts (Cornelius & Cie and his own label), McGonigle, Speake-Marin, Sarpaneva (including S.U.F), Andreas Strehler and of course Grönefeld’s own timepieces, the GMT-06 and their latest, the One Herz.

Doc, Doc, Doc, Doc, Doctor Beat   The Rythm Of The One Hertz TimepiecePicture above was taken on the 19th of December 2009, during the opening of the boutique. Next to me (L) is Bart Grönefeld. On my wrist, the GTM-06.

More information can be found at www.gronefeld.nl and more information regarding the Grönefeld Boutique can be found at www.gronefeld.eu.

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